I change the oil and filter in my vehicles. I can buy the oil on sale and a complete oil and filter change with synthetic oil and a premium quality filter will cost less then $30.00. If a commercial place did it; I could expect to pay more then $50.00 and would not know if they did it correct. Do you change your own oil?

I've changed my oil in my previously owned vehicles but I brought the maintenance package with this vehicle. A guy at my job recommended it. I don't pay for labor, I pay for parts and get a discount on the parts. I get a free clear coat each year, free premium floor mats... I'm going to get the slush mats for winter and rainy seasons...

I’m not expecting my oil and filter changes to even cost me as much as $30 a month to change at the dealer but I could be wrong. Anybody else brought the maintenance package and paid more than $30 for oil and filters change?

I used to change my oil all the time but anymore, it's as cheap or cheaper to have it done so that is what I now do. I change the oil/filter on our bikes, but no longer the cars.

I've changed my oil in my previously owned vehicles but I brought the maintenance package with this vehicle. A guy at my job recommended it. I don't pay for labor, I pay for parts and get a discount on the parts. I get a free clear coat each year, free premium floor mats... I'm going to get the slush mats for winter and rainy seasons...

I’m not expecting my oil and filter changes to even cost me as much as $30 a month to change at the dealer but I could be wrong. Anybody else brought the maintenance package and paid more than $30 for oil and filters change?

If you have your dealer change the oil inquiry what weight they are using. We have had several members on the other forumZ where the dealer used oil that was not spec for the engine. Engine required 5W20; dealer used 10w30.

If you have your dealer change the oil inquiry what weight they are using. We have had several members on the other forumZ where the dealer used oil that was not spec for the engine. Engine required 5W20; dealer used 10w30.
Thanks for the heads up, I'm actually going for an oil change within the next week so I'm def. going to stay on them.

If you have your dealer change the oil inquiry what weight they are using. We have had several members on the other forumZ where the dealer used oil that was not spec for the engine. Engine required 5W20; dealer used 10w30.


Unfortunately I think its typical for most any dealer to do this. They just use whatever they bought thats cheapest. One of the reasons I prefer to do it myself, you have to kinda watch them. Plenty of your instant oil change places do this as well, especially if they are the "cheap" places. Theres a reason why its so cheap. ;)

My wife has had pretty good luck with uncle ed's so she usually takes her truck there. Its her car, so fine by me. But they charge higher fees, and try to get you to replace everything under the sun everytime you go in there. You just have to be steadfast and say no just change the oil only lol.

If you look in the owners manual the oil recommended is different for the R/T than other models. If the dealer put 10W30 in your RT then they followed the manufacture recommendations for the 3.5L. I don't have my manual in front of me but I think I recall that it's only the R/T that gets the w30, the 2.4L and 2.7L get the w20. I (or someone) will need to verify this in the owners manual.

- Dan M

The 2.4l's only recommended oil is 5W20. This is not listed in the manual but 5W30 can be used countries that 5W20 is not sold. If 10W30 is the recommended oil in the 3.5l check the manual if 5W30 can also be used. 5W30 would have superior flow characteristics on cold starts and this is where the most engine wear happens at.

I change my own oil and use the Mopar filter just in case. My sister who owns a Kia has some kind of oil changing package going on and marks her oil filter. She caught them not changing the filter and there was hell to pay.

I have always, except a few times when I didn't have a garage, changed my own oil. I have even changed my relatives oil for them too!

If you take it to the dealer just ask them to use bottled oil only not wall oil then check the invoice and see what they put in, MUST be 5w20. I dont use synthetic, just change every 3k and stick with one brand of oil and you should have no oil issues.

If you take it to the dealer just ask them to use bottled oil only not wall oil then check the invoice and see what they put in, MUST be 5w20. I dont use synthetic, just change every 3k and stick with one brand of oil and you should have no oil issues.

If I did 3k oci, I would use regular oil also. That would put me changing my oil and filter every 2 months instead of 3 months.

If you take it to the dealer just ask them to use bottled oil only not wall oil then check the invoice and see what they put in, MUST be 5w20. I dont use synthetic, just change every 3k and stick with one brand of oil and you should have no oil issues.


Hmmn...I never thought that you could ask for that specifically...but would they just charge more for the change?

Hmmn...I never thought that you could ask for that specifically...but would they just charge more for the change?

most places use bulk oil, oil from large drums. If i recall many places actually specify that they use that. I would think there would be a price change. the more they buy the less the cost.

I know jiffy lube and pep boys offers levels of oil changes...
basic - bulk dino
synthetic blend
premium synehtic

I know pep boys also offers an engine flush that I do on my truck every year. They hook it up to a machine and run cleaning solution in the filter port at high psi and vacuum it out oil pan. This removes sludge build up. I've had this done the last few years on 2 different trucks. Pep boys will (for cost of oil) use any oil they sell (castrol, m1, texaco, royal purple).

- Dan M

I worked at a Mr. Lube when I was in college. A few notes.

- You will be charged extra for bottled oil instead of bulk oil, but you get to pick your brand, type and weight. Bulk oil is usually a major brand (we used Castrol), conventional, and almost universally 10W-30.

- You will likely not be allowed to "bring your own" and pay labor. A) They charge more for their own stuff - imagine going to a steakhouse and asking them to grill your porterhouse from home for the cost of labor. B) They will tell you it's for liability purposes, so that if there is a defect in the oil they put in that you brought, you could try to sue them. Sounds strange but I can believe it could happen.

- They will use their own brand of filter unless you pay extra for an OEM filter.

- Make sure you ask for the grease fittings to be done. They're supposed to anyway, but they're encouraged to "forget" when it's busy.

- They will try to sell you an engine flush every time. You only need one if you've abused your oil. Before you go in, check your oil, if it's midnight black, you should get a flush, but if it's only brown, decline.

I worked at a Mr. Lube when I was in college. A few notes.

- You will be charged extra for bottled oil instead of bulk oil, but you get to pick your brand, type and weight. Bulk oil is usually a major brand (we used Castrol), conventional, and almost universally 10W-30.

- You will likely not be allowed to "bring your own" and pay labor. A) They charge more for their own stuff - imagine going to a steakhouse and asking them to grill your porterhouse from home for the cost of labor. B) They will tell you it's for liability purposes, so that if there is a defect in the oil they put in that you brought, you could try to sue them. Sounds strange but I can believe it could happen.

- They will use their own brand of filter unless you pay extra for an OEM filter.

- Make sure you ask for the grease fittings to be done. They're supposed to anyway, but they're encouraged to "forget" when it's busy.

- They will try to sell you an engine flush every time. You only need one if you've abused your oil. Before you go in, check your oil, if it's midnight black, you should get a flush, but if it's only brown, decline.


Good tips! Thanks!

When I put amsoil in my contour (the one time I did it) I had the dealer do it for me and I supplied the oil and filter...all they did was charge for labor. But that was a dealer too, not sure the smaller shops would be as accomodating..

Hey guys, I talked to one of my local shops and my buddy said he'd do the oil change, I just pay for labor :) But I have to supply the oil and filter, because he doesn't get full synthetic in bulk so it costs him an arm and a leg. I thought this was pretty fair...so question, I plan on using a K&N Filter, but what brand/type of oil should I get?

Hey guys, I talked to one of my local shops and my buddy said he'd do the oil change, I just pay for labor :) But I have to supply the oil and filter, because he doesn't get full synthetic in bulk so it costs him an arm and a leg. I thought this was pretty fair...so question, I plan on using a K&N Filter, but what brand/type of oil should I get?

Personally I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and if possible, skip the K&N and get an OEM one from the dealer, yes it costs a little more but atleast you know it is what the dealer would use or atleast should.

You can also order Amsoil but it get a little expensive or you can buy Royal Purple off the shelf. I am sure the even Castrol or Valveline or Quaker State has synthetics but you will just have to decide for yourself. If you really want to do some research, you can check out this website www.bobistheoilguy.com (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com) and there is some good studies done here.

Personally I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and if possible, skip the K&N and get an OEM one from the dealer, yes it costs a little more but atleast you know it is what the dealer would use or atleast should.

You can also order Amsoil but it get a little expensive or you can buy Royal Purple off the shelf. I am sure the even Castrol or Valveline or Quaker State has synthetics but you will just have to decide for yourself. If you really want to do some research, you can check out this website www.bobistheoilguy.com (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com) and there is some good studies done here.

Isn't K&N better than OEM? Like their air filters are typically better than oem correct?

Also what grade do I get? 5w10?

Isn't K&N better than OEM? Like their air filters are typically better than oem correct?

Also what grade do I get? 5w10?

I've used K & N before. Amsoil also makes filters but not sure if they have one for our car or not. I used Amsoil and an Amsoil filter in my contour before.

The only reason why I say to go with OEM is because of the Lifetime Powertrain Warrenty. I have also heard some nasty stories of how K&N oil filters have broken apart and screwed up the engine. I have also heard that they don't filter as well. It is just for ease of mind to use OEM. It also eliminated to issue of "My engine blew-up because the oil filter didn't work the way it should have" and then having Dodge say "take it up with K&N, we do not warranty non OEM failures". It is all for peace of mind.

On the flip side, I have heard stories of people that have been using K&N or other brands their entire life and swear by them. It is all up to you. Just do some research and see what will make you sleep better at night.

Also, use whatever weight oil your engine calls for. The only time to change it is if you are in a real cold enviroment or a real hot one, otherwise just use what is recommended. I think that the owners manual tells you what to use for each enviroment.

The only reason why I say to go with OEM is because of the Lifetime Powertrain Warrenty. I have also heard some nasty stories of how K&N oil filters have broken apart and screwed up the engine. I have also heard that they don't filter as well. It is just for ease of mind to use OEM. It also eliminated to issue of "My engine blew-up because the oil filter didn't work the way it should have" and then having Dodge say "take it up with K&N, we do not warranty non OEM failures". It is all for peace of mind.

On the flip side, I have heard stories of people that have been using K&N or other brands their entire life and swear by them. It is all up to you. Just do some research and see what will make you sleep better at night.

Also, use whatever weight oil your engine calls for. The only time to change it is if you are in a real cold enviroment or a real hot one, otherwise just use what is recommended. I think that the owners manual tells you what to use for each enviroment.

Ok I'm in Michigan and its quite cold at the moment, but it should get warmer in the next month or so, so I'm wondering if I should just wait...

I also checked around, seems like everyone swears by Amsoil... I do get your point about the filter, but couldn't they blame it on oil as well? I noticed Amsoil also have filters that seems decent.

Ok I'm in Michigan and its quite cold at the moment, but it should get warmer in the next month or so, so I'm wondering if I should just wait...

I also checked around, seems like everyone swears by Amsoil... I do get your point about the filter, but couldn't they blame it on oil as well? I noticed Amsoil also have filters that seems decent.


Well there are two things to also consider in your case. I understand the point about the lifetime warranty that dubie makes, but in your case you are leasing so it really doesn't matter to you in that respect.

Other than that, there are a million opinions floating around the net as what to use for oil and filters. I think if you stick with a name brand quality oil you will be fine. As for filters, well, my opinion is to stay away from fram. But thats based off of things i've heard from multiple sources at multiple places on the .net.

I'm sure if you looked hard enough you could find horror storys about oem, k&n, amsoil, whatever. I never had a problem yet with k&n on my cars or my bike, nor have had an issue with oem ones either. And I've tryed amsoil and had good luck with that as well.

Its more of a personal preference and what you read that has happened to others methinks. So thats my take....:)

Well there are two things to also consider in your case. I understand the point about the lifetime warranty that dubie makes, but in your case you are leasing so it really doesn't matter to you in that respect.

Other than that, there are a million opinions floating around the net as what to use for oil and filters. I think if you stick with a name brand quality oil you will be fine. As for filters, well, my opinion is to stay away from fram. But thats based off of things i've heard from multiple sources at multiple places on the .net.

I'm sure if you looked hard enough you could find horror storys about oem, k&n, amsoil, whatever. I never had a problem yet with k&n on my cars or my bike, nor have had an issue with oem ones either. And I've tryed amsoil and had good luck with that as well.

Its more of a personal preference and what you read that has happened to others methinks. So thats my take....:)

Hmmm ok - some website I found said they did a bunch of tests and amsoil actually increases your HP, which I'm not sure if its bs or not :P I'm leaning more towards it.

I didn't realize that you were leasing the vehicle. The question then arrises, are you going to buy it out at the end or not? You might even want to talk to the dealer, then there might be a program in place where you just have to take it to the dealer and they will do it for free or cheap. I have heard of it before but it is usually an option in your lease. The dealers like this because they get to check over your car every oil change to see if you have done anything against the lease to the vehicle.

If you are only leasing and not doing the buy-out at the end, just use regular dino oil. You can use the synthetic but it will cost more and save the car in the long run but if you are not planning on having it past the lease, then just use the regular bulk stuff.

I didn't realize that you were leasing the vehicle. The question then arrises, are you going to buy it out at the end or not? You might even want to talk to the dealer, then there might be a program in place where you just have to take it to the dealer and they will do it for free or cheap. I have heard of it before but it is usually an option in your lease. The dealers like this because they get to check over your car every oil change to see if you have done anything against the lease to the vehicle.

If you are only leasing and not doing the buy-out at the end, just use regular dino oil. You can use the synthetic but it will cost more and save the car in the long run but if you are not planning on having it past the lease, then just use the regular bulk stuff.

Yeah that's what I'm not sure on...it honestly depends on the technology. I had a jeep back in 06 and it was a dinosaur (within technology) - then this year I started shopping cars, and now everything is automated, independent suspension, 4 disc brakes, etc...they just seem to be making the cars better and more advanced ...so I am leasing this for 3 years, if technology has not made a major change like it did from 06 to 08, then most likely I will buy it...I plan on doing some mods and just changing them back if I don't decide to keep it so the further away I stay away from the dealer the better :D

Yeah that's what I'm not sure on...it honestly depends on the technology. I had a jeep back in 06 and it was a dinosaur (within technology) - then this year I started shopping cars, and now everything is automated, independent suspension, 4 disc brakes, etc...they just seem to be making the cars better and more advanced ...so I am leasing this for 3 years, if technology has not made a major change like it did from 06 to 08, then most likely I will buy it...I plan on doing some mods and just changing them back if I don't decide to keep it so the further away I stay away from the dealer the better :D


The dealer will see you coming a mile away. :p Oh....please tell me you did not lease this car from colonial dodge....pretty please?

The dealer will see you coming a mile away. :p Oh....please tell me you did not lease this car from colonial dodge....pretty please?

LOL Heck no, I laughed at them, they wanted to lease me the 2.4L, leather package, sound package w/ the moonroof and I think it had the EVIC system...for $389/month?

What's funnier is I talked to Oakland Dodge, and they had somewhat the same car, except it had "custom rims" lol - he wanted $422...I was like...Dude I can get an R/T cheaper than that, and he was like...Then go with them! I was shocked, but I guess he'll sell it to some other sucker.

But no anyway, I got it from St. Hts Dodge, basically after shopping all 18 dodge dealerships (except Szotts or whatever - I will never ever go to them even if they are the last dodge dealership in the world - but thats a different story) I finally found my guy that will low-ball just to make the sale :) I have another guy who's actually my good friend now that used to work at Meadowbrook (another place I will never get a car from) - but he went to Golling and got my crappy jeep just to get me out of my stratus, but now he went to Palace Chrysler-Jeep, so my dodge hook up is gone, but yeah I got a good deal :D Getting the charger from them too, and no one will touch the price...The SE Plus w/ the huge ass moonroof for $277/month, 12k miles year, 27 month lease, sign and drive...

I called around trying to see if I could get anyone to drop lower, but the lowest they would go is $305... lol

Yeah that's what I'm not sure on...it honestly depends on the technology. I had a jeep back in 06 and it was a dinosaur (within technology) - then this year I started shopping cars, and now everything is automated, independent suspension, 4 disc brakes, etc...they just seem to be making the cars better and more advanced ...so I am leasing this for 3 years, if technology has not made a major change like it did from 06 to 08, then most likely I will buy it...I plan on doing some mods and just changing them back if I don't decide to keep it so the further away I stay away from the dealer the better :D

The only thing that you would have to be afraid of is if you went to the dealer and had a turbo kit or supercharger on your engine, or if you had some major body damage or something along those lines. If you just have an exhaust and CAI or chip, you should be fine. It is the major parts that they would be concerned with, not the simple bolt-ons. They may make a comment to you but that is all that it is, a comment.

The only thing that you would have to be afraid of is if you went to the dealer and had a turbo kit or supercharger on your engine, or if you had some major body damage or something along those lines. If you just have an exhaust and CAI or chip, you should be fine. It is the major parts that they would be concerned with, not the simple bolt-ons. They may make a comment to you but that is all that it is, a comment.

Yeah their new mile long contract is very ...vague.... in that area, I posted what it said in another thread, but it seems like they don't care what you do as they will either keep the parts, or bill you for them. :P

Are you planning to do the routine maintenance or have it done for you? You have the R/T so the recommended oil is 10W30, I would use 5W30. Wix and Purolator both make top quality oil filters in the $5.00 range. I will not spend $10.00 on an oil filter that does not filter any better. The class of oil depends on how frequently you want to change it.

Are you planning to do the routine maintenance or have it done for you? You have the R/T so the recommended oil is 10W30, I would use 5W30. Wix and Purolator both make top quality oil filters in the $5.00 range. I will not spend $10.00 on an oil filter that does not filter any better. The class of oil depends on how frequently you want to change it.

Not often I hate oil changes :) I thought I remembered somewhere back in the day, there was an oil that lasted like either 10k or 100K miles....but it was like $200 or something.

There are several oils available that claim 10k or more before needing to be change. The motor oil itself does not wear out, its the additives that get depleted over time and the contaminants that build up in the oil that requires it to be changed. Motor oil is the life blood in the engine and I would prefer to have it change somewhere between 4k to 5k with a new filter 3 or 4 times a year. I had a 1993 Dodge Shadow ES with 3.0 V6 and when I sold it, I had over 260k miles on it. The engine was still running strong and was outlasting rest of the vehicle. My wife's Neon has over 170k miles on it. The only thing I do is change the oil and filter between 4k to 5K and replace the air filter once a year.

There are several oils available that claim 10k or more before needing to be change. The motor oil itself does not wear out, its the additives that get depleted over time and the contaminants that build up in the oil that requires it to be changed. Motor oil is the life blood in the engine and I would prefer to have it change somewhere between 4k to 5k with a new filter 3 or 4 times a year. I had a 1993 Dodge Shadow ES with 3.0 V6 and when I sold it, I had over 260k miles on it. The engine was still running strong and was outlasting rest of the vehicle. My wife's Neon has over 170k miles on it. The only thing I do is change the oil and filter between 4k to 5K and replace the air filter once a year.


Very sound advice! With proper break in and maintenance engines should last a long time, unless theres some specific defect that damages them.

Defiantly the oil is important. I've had many cars that I kept for over 10 years and kept running good with oil changes,Antifreeze flushing,Plugs,and greasing the front end. I had it drilled into my head as a kid and I'm glad I listened. As my father said" If you want the car to take of you, You have to take care of the car". I have been lucky too to have bought alot used cars that were good ones.