2008 avenger 2.4 dies p0171 | Dodge Avenger Forum

2008 avenger 2.4 dies p0171

Discussion in 'Dodge Avenger Mechanical Problems and Questions' started by dogman1955, Jun 5, 2018.

  1. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    My daughter brought Christine back today as she started dying so we scanned her and got 2 codes po171 lean right bank and a code p0113 air intake sensor. I replaced the air intake sensor but she is still dying at first It was doing it mostly at stop lights but now it seems to be getting worse.
    Any opinions will of course be treasured.
    Cheers
    dogman
     
  2. Intrepid

    Intrepid Active Member MOTM Winner!

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    https://www.avengerforumz.com/threads/p0171-code.59068/


    From another site:
    Possible causes
    • Intake air leaks
    • Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
    • Ignition misfiring
    • Faulty fuel injectors
    • Exhaust gas leaks
    • Incorrect fuel pressure
    • Lack of fuel
    • Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
    • Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection
    What does this mean?
    Tech notes
    If the P0171 is combined with the P0174 code, it's very likely that the problem is caused by an intake leak. If there are no intake leaks, the next step is to replace the air filter and clean the air flow meter. If the problem persists the front oxygen (O2) sensor may need to be replaced.
    What does this mean?
    When is the code detected?
    - Fuel injection system does not operate properly.
    - The amount of mixture ratio compensation is too small. (The mixture ratio is too lean.)
    Possible symptoms
    • Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
    • Excessive Fuel Consumption
    P0171 Dodge Description
    With the Air/Fuel Mixture Ratio Self-Learning Control, the actual mixture ratio can be brought closely to the theoretical mixture ratio based on the mixture ratio feedback signal from the heated oxygen sensors 1. The Engine Control Module (ECM) calculates the necessary compensation to correct the offset between the actual and the theoretical ratios.

    In case the amount of the compensation value is extremely large (The actual mixture ratio is too lean.), the ECM judges the condition as the fuel injection system malfunction and light up the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) (2 trip detection logic).
     
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  3. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    Thanks for responding Intrepid :) . I recently did several repairs to this car and it ran fantastic for 800 miles. I would not expect the car to stall with an 02 sensor issue but that is a possibility . My daughter says that besides dying the car surges and cuts out at highway speeds like it is not getting fuel and then getting fuel and after dying she got the red lightening bolt light a few times but only for 2-3 seconds after re-starting it. The car has 128,000 on it but has been well maintained, I think I will clean the throttle body and sensor this morning as that has never been done. The 02 sensors have never been changed so that is high on my list, do you guys think the 02 sensors would stall the car?
    All thoughts on this are treasured .
    Cheers
    dogman
     
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  4. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Start off with a good cleaning of the throttle body and MAP sensor, they get a lot of PCV system oil fume buildup and can cause much of your concern. O2 sensors would show their own codes if failing. Try a dose of Seafoam in the fuel tank. Has this all been on the same tank of fuel?
     
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  5. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    Yes I think it has likely been all on this tank of fuel, I will clean throttle body and MAP sensor and check PCV valve which I did change when I gave the car a massive maintenance service at 100,000 2 years ago. I will post the results of this this afternoon on this thread, I 'am old and handi-capped thus a slow mover.
    Thank you so very much for your thoughts on this.
    Cheers
    dogman
     
  6. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    POSSIBLE poor quality gas, try a can of Seafoam in the tank. And you and I are not far apart on physical ailments, but the tasks are not hard to do at all. just take your time....
     
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  7. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    I seem to be having trouble getting electrical connector un plugged and do not want to break it, do you know if I need to squeeze sides of it while pulling out or pry sides outward?
    Cheers :)
    dogman
     
  8. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    As I have the older coupe, not sure on the Sedans connectors. BUT if you look at the latch part and see a RED slide lock clip, that raised end has to be slid outward from the connector to be able to depress the main latch tab on the connector.It does not need to come all the way off, you will feel the "detent" stop once it moves.
    Hope this helps, and maybe some of our more modern gen members will "chime in" on this!
     
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  9. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    I finally got the electrical connector off and broke one of the side tabs on it, hopefully when I put the new throttle body on in a few days I will be able to get the connector to stay on, I think it will still be tight enough with one side. Tomorrow I will clean the sensors.
    Cheers
    Dogman
     
  10. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    While I am waiting for my new throttle body to arrive I took off the MAP sensor and cleaned it and the hole it sticks into as they were coated in oily residue, I used MAF cleaner do you think I should just replace the MAP? I also wonder if I should continue my search for the MAF it is not between the filter box and the throttle body, I suspect it is hard to get to as maybe it is hooked to the air pump? Do you know where it is hidden?
    Thanks
    dogman
     
  11. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    There is no MAF sensor when a MAP sensor is used. It is the MAP sensor and the Electric throttle body that does the work. The MAP sensor is at the right side(belt end) of the motor and in the #1 cylinder intake manifold runner area.
     
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  12. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    Thanks for responding bro., sensors and Dodge electronics are not my specialty so I kept looking for it in the parts catalogs and the Haynes manual which as you know often lacks information. I pulled the MAP sensor and cleaned it real good several times and threw on a new pcv , hopefully I get the throttle body early enough tomorrow to throw it on before I go back to the hospital for more tests.
    Cheers to all :)
    Dog
     
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  13. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    I changed the throttle body now the car is running rough no rpms and the lightning bolt is constantly on, makes me wonder if I got a defective throttle body or I made a mistake installing?? I did try to reset the computer doing the 3 key boogie and a 12 second on off neither helped, wonder if I need to do a hard reset by taking the battery cables off and zip tying them together for a few hours? Any thoughts on this?
     
  14. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Reconsider my posts #4 and #6. May have BAD GAS blocking fuel pump delivery.
    Pump is under a plate under the rear seat, not hard to get at.
     
  15. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    It is not the gas as I removed some and tested it on my very sensitive lawnmower, for sure changing the throttle body made it run a lot worse which should not be the case, the cars computer does have a long memory and I only unhooked the negative post under the hood for this job. I feel as though I must get it running as good as it was before removing throttle body before I mess with the fuel pump or #1 o2 sensor. or intake gasket.
     
  16. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    And all those other tie together with the throttle body for it's operation. But who knows what is trapped in the sump pickup point of the fuel sock and pump assy.?
    Never heard of the 3 key boogie and 12 second off for clearing the computer...The key dance is only good to get certain generic codes FROM the computer. Dis connect the neg cable for around an hour and that should be plenty time to clear and reset the computer.
    Not knowing what brand and where you got the throttle body from ...there is a strong possibility that you may have gotten a defective one. OR the problem is somewhere else. You can try putting the original back on and see if there is any difference.

    EDIT: Also look up here in the forum search for throttle pedal re calibration, it's posted many times, and may help sync the TB with the throttle pedal sensor.
     
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  17. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    Thanks Rebel 9 what I meant by the 3 key boogie is what you call the dance I did it 3 times and got no codes, 12 seconds to on not running and then off is what tipms rebuilders call a soft reset. I had the negative cable off of the under hood stud all night which had no effect so I took the wheel off a while ago and removed both battery cables and bolted them together , then reconnected the under hood negative to the jumper stud which is what some call a hard reset, if this fails I will then try pedal re calibration before I throw the old throttle body back on to determine if the after market throttle body has issues. If all of these actions fail I think my next step will be checking the fuel pump pressure.
    Cheers:)
    dogman
     
  18. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    NO test port! Have to have an inline adapter.
     
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  19. dogman1955

    dogman1955 New Member

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    CHRISTINE LIVES AGAIN :):)
    I cleaned up the old throttle body and re-installed it, and she still ran the same rough with no RPM's so that likely shows the after market throttle body is good so I will keep it as a spare. Next I replaced the map sensor since I had cleaned it several times I thought maybe that was the cause which it was the cause of the rough running and loss of power, I drove it a bit and no code lights are on so I will put her through a long test tomorrow and then let my daughter drive it a few hundred miles and see if it stalls any more. I will post the results good or bad.
    Cheers to all :):)
    Dogman
     
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  20. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Glad to hear that....
    1 That it was not a defective EXPENSIVE new TB
    2 That it was a relatively cheaper MAP sensor, and a quicker R&R job!:)
     

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