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Discussion Starter #21
Well, my info is from my 99 Durango that I had. Its PCM, I was quoted when it first went out in 2003, around 1500 plus reprogramming. When it went out again in 08 I found one for around 800 plus programming. If you have found a rebuilt PCM for 189 with the core, then I guess prices may have come down. I haven't really looked for it, also I am not sure if it would be the PCM or the TIPM (or are they one and the same) you would need.
I looked at the major PCM rebuilders, and none have anything for Avengers after about 2001 if I remember correctly. It looks like a dealer only option. My wife's 300M was simple, I just sent my VIN, mileage, and numbers off the old computer. In 2-3 days I got back a rebuilt computer, already programmed for the car and with a lifetime warranty. I had to send the old one back, but they supplied the return postage. It was a great deal for $189. It looks like big bucks for the Avenger!
Bruce
 

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Big bucks for any of these newer cars. The fancy technology makes the car easier to own, but much more difficult to work on...
 

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Big bucks for any of these newer cars. The fancy technology makes the car easier to own, but much more difficult to work on...

so you are essentially saying cars have become consumables, like printers. You can buy a brand new one with ink and everything for less than what the replacement ink costs, of the same exact model no less...
 

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Ha! interesting analogy. I wouldn't go that far, but yes... I agree to an extent.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, its been nearly two weeks and the car is still running strong (despite me).

I'll keep you posted from time to time, or when it decides to limp again.

Bruce
 

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Hey, just in case you had this issue again, I had something like this happen to me before, but not as bad. Turns out it was one of the coil packs that went bad, so the engine was misfiring pretty bad. Car ran like crap, so could be another thing to diagnose in the future.
 

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I know this is an old post, but I’m having the same problem with my car stuck in limp mode. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, two of four ignition coils, throttle body and air filter. Anybody figure this out yet? I feel like it’s an electrical problem.
 

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I know this is an old post, but I’m having the same problem with my car stuck in limp mode. I’ve replaced the spark plugs, two of four ignition coils, throttle body and air filter. Anybody figure this out yet? I feel like it’s an electrical problem.
You should get your computer scanned with a good scanner to find out which codes are being triggered.
 

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Well, I can't believe it! To try and solve my son's "limp home mode" problem, I ended up repacing the following:
-Battery
-Throttle Body
-PCV valve
-Plugs
-Air Filter
-Can of Seafoam

All this to no avail. I drove it several times around the block for 15-20 miles, and could only hit a max of 35mph and it sounded and felt terrible. Although my AutoTap scanner was helpful at first, it now developed problems and could not recognize the car or the VIN. I tried reloading the software, to no avail. I took the tube off again that goes from the throttle body to the air filter box. I wanted to check the wires going to the starter (I was getting desparate). Of course they were tight. Even though the CEL was not illuminated, I decided to try the "key dance" trick since my scanner wasn't working. I mistakenly turned the key too far, and the car started and ran better than it had, despite the tube being disconnected. I ran it for about 30 seconds, shut it off and tried again. It ran a little rough, but a lot better. I shut it off, and reconnected the tube from the air box to the throttle body. It started up and ran great! That was yesterday morning. Since then I have put about 50 miles on it, and started it up a total of about 20 times. It continues to run fantastically! I tried wiggling sensor connectors to see if I could get it to repeat, but nothing happened.

The only downside is that I have no idea what, if anything fixed it. I told my son not to take it on any long trips. I wouldn't be surprised to see it happen again.

In an earlier post I vowed to tell you guys what the "Fix" was. Unfortunately, I have no idea. I will give you an update in a few weeks (sooner if any issues arrive).

Thank you to all who helped.

Bruce
You should get your computer scanned with a good scanner to find out which codes are being triggered.

I did. No codes.
 

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How old is your battery? Did you check and clean the battery terminals, the jump posts, and ground connections in the engine compartment. Also you should pull the TIPM and check all connections coming into the bottom of it for corrosion. After checking and cleaning all above mentioned connections coat them with dielectric grease to maintain a clean non-corrosive contact.
 

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How old is your battery? Did you check and clean the battery terminals, the jump posts, and ground connections in the engine compartment. Also you should pull the TIPM and check all connections coming into the bottom of it for corrosion. After checking and cleaning all above mentioned connections coat them with dielectric grease to maintain a clean non-corrosive contact.
I had already replaced the battery and all the above. I think I might have fixed it. I read about someone that was in the same boat and said they took it to a dealership and found theirs was a leaking intake manifold gasket and I tried it and I’ll be damned, it works.
 

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Great news.
 
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