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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, brand new here with a somewhat new to me car and problems to go with it.

As the title states, I have codes P0700 and P0882. I've spent hours googling, and searching this forum, to no avail.

Long story short, before I drop a wall of text. I can drive short and long distances with the car acting perfectly normal. Every once in a while with increasing frequency it'll go in to limp mode with the above two codes. I can turn the car off and back on and it'll go back to normal for a while, then it happens again.

Now time for the long story. I've done quite a lot of diagnosis so far. I've also tried a few tricks I've read about it various places. Originally I was also getting P0562 as well. The battery was in fact pretty weak and 4 years old. I replaced the battery and all was well for a few days. Then it happened again. Without the 562 code this time. Improvement? Maybe.

Next, I've read a lot of people saying it might be heat from the radiator hose under the cables. I put heat sleeves and shielding on the cables to no avail.

On to the next step. I checked the resistance on pin 4 and 7 on the transmission control solenoid. 1.9 ohms so that checks out. I've been tracing every single relevant wire I can find. So far no shorts or open circuits that I can see. I've removed and reseated all the connectors. No corrosion, bent or pushed out pins, breaks in wires, or any other damage I could find.

I opened up the tipm to see if I could find any obvious damage. Nope. Solid state relays, which means they are usually either good or bad, not intermittent.

So now I am basically at a loss. I don't want to start throwing parts at it. Wish I could afford that. Transmission shops tell me it's electrical. Electrical shops tell me it's the transmission. Thanks! Real helpful.

Well, if you've made it this far, congrats! That's quite an achievement. Can anyone shed some light on what I should try next? One thing to add, I had P0750 show up one of the times. Is that a good enough indicator, or is that just because the car was in limp mode, and due to the way that's implemented, the computer thought that was an issue. It's only showed up once. Thanks again!
 

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Electrical problems have got to be the worst. Which engine do you have? Have you reset the codes and do they come back right away? Have you actually disconnected the battery and pulled out the TIPM, pull all the connectors off of the bottom to check for corrosion and connections?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Electrical problems have got to be the worst. Which engine do you have? Have you reset the codes and do they come back right away? Have you actually disconnected the battery and pulled out the TIPM, pull all the connectors off of the bottom to check for corrosion and connections?
It's a 2.4 engine. Model year 2008. Electrical issues are the bane of my existence.

It's sort of random when I reset the codes. It never comes back right away. Sometimes I drive for 5 miles or less and it comes back. Sometimes I can drive 60 miles non stop and no check engine light. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when or why it does it.

I changed the battery a week ago and everything was fine for 5 days. Then the codes popped again. Inspected the battery cables etc. No damage or corrosion anywhere.

I pulled the tipm out and even opened it up to check out the circuit boards inside. No corrosion anywhere. No obviously damaged components within the tipm.

I cable tied the battery cables together overnight for good measure to try to reset everything as much as possible. I've read conflicting information if this works but figured it can't hurt to try it.

I'm at my wit's end here. The problem is so random and intermittent making it nearly impossible to diagnose. Every time I think I've "fixed" it, I have to drive in constant fear that it's going to go into limp mode any second. The only way to know i fixed it is if I drive it forever and the codes never pop again.

I'm about ready to buy a new tipm and go through that headache, but I really want to be able to definitively diagnose the issue.
 

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Your car's alternator uses a clutched pulley and when electrical load is sensed by the TIPM/ECM comb the draw thru the alternator is supposed to make the pulley clutch engage and allow the alt to "charge". A bit different than most other Avenger alternator systems. The clutch pulley is known to go bad on these, as there are a number of posts on forumz pages of this. I also have the same type system in my 04 minivan and my previous minivan had the clutch pulley go bad. Charging problem was hard to tell as to the way the system operates being that charge was only called for when needed and not constant like fixed direct drive alternator pulley vehicles(2.7, 3.5,3.6 Avenger motors). Since you replaced the battery, I'd suggest having a good shop check your Alternator and charging system. Spending a few bucks for a good diagnosis is WAY BETTER than throwing out money for parts that may not need replacement ($$).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your car's alternator uses a clutched pulley and when electrical load is sensed by the TIPM/ECM comb the draw thru the alternator is supposed to make the pulley clutch engage and allow the alt to "charge". A bit different than most other Avenger alternator systems. The clutch pulley is known to go bad on these, as there are a number of posts on forumz pages of this. I also have the same type system in my 04 minivan and my previous minivan had the clutch pulley go bad. Charging problem was hard to tell as to the way the system operates being that charge was only called for when needed and not constant like fixed direct drive alternator pulley vehicles(2.7, 3.5,3.6 Avenger motors). Since you replaced the battery, I'd suggest having a good shop check your Alternator and charging system. Spending a few bucks for a good diagnosis is WAY BETTER than throwing out money for parts that may not need replacement ($$).
I did try to check the alternator before replacing the battery. I'm not sure if a shop could test more than I have, but maybe it's worth a try.

With the engine running it was putting out a steady 13.4 volts. Each time I turned on an accessory it jumped up a bit and remained steady. By the time I turned on the brights, ac on full blast, the radio cranked way up, and press all 4 window buttons down, it was putting out a steady 14.4 volts.

The freeze frame data from when the codes were last tripped put the battery voltage at 13.9 volts. Headlights off, ac off, radio on but not cranked up.

Would a shop be able to test it beyond this? Or have I effectively diagnosed a properly working alternator?
 

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That is sufficient testing ;) Looks like time to start checking trans modular plug wiring and connection. Hopefully you'll find poor/overheated connections and not a bad TIPM or Trans control module. Did you dismount the TIPM and open up and inspect the many wires and multiple modular plug connections on the underside? Hint add dielectric grease on reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is sufficient testing ;) Looks like time to start checking trans modular plug wiring and connection. Hopefully you'll find poor/overheated connections and not a bad TIPM or Trans control module. Did you dismount the TIPM and open up and inspect the many wires and multiple modular plug connections on the underside? Hint add dielectric grease on reassembly.
Good thing that's sufficient testing :p I really don't want to go through the hassle of replacing that darn pulley, or the whole alternator. Looks like even more fun than the battery.

I pulled the tipm out and inspected all the components, pins, and traces on the PCB. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. No corrosion anywhere. I kinda hoped I would have found something obviously wrong, but no such luck.

Just a few hours ago I pulled the harness on the transmission control solenoid and speed sensors to inspect the connections. I may have found something. Maybe not. Again, no corrosion or physical damage. However, the 8 pin bolt on connector on top of the solenoid has a bit of fluid in it. The speed sensor closest to the solenoid is even more wet inside.

As I understand it, that big 8 pin connector contains the power feed line, which could be causing the 882 code. Is it possible the solenoid is leaking in to the connector? Nothing else seems to be leaking. Would this be enough to mess with the voltage and trip the code?

I'll be replacing the solenoid and the speed sensor, and go from there. Meanwhile I'll keep scouring the wiring for any obvious damage.

As per your advice I'll take the tipm back out and add some dielectric grease. I neglected to do that.

I don't know if this is technically an electrical issue at this point, but I appreciate the help thus far.

I see you both, 5rebel9 and Intrepid, giving tons of good advice and help to people on this forum and really appreciate people like you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I replaced the transmission control solenoid. Took it out for a test drive. Less than a mile in, I hear the dreaded DING! P0882 is back.

I disassembled and depinned the connector on top of the module and the crimps look good. I checked the integrity of the wires where they pass through the rubber grommet in the connector as I had read sometimes the wires can become damaged inside the insulation right there. The wires look and feel fine. The crimps and copper strands at the pins look brand new. Continuity tested while wiggling and manipulating the wires showed no break.

I guess it's back to looking at the TIPM(TIPOS in my opinion). Why must you abandon a traditional fuse and relay box? Has that not worked just fine for many decades? I found a TIPM bypass procedure on Gears Magazine, but it's for a 2007 Dodge Dakota 4.7L with a different transmission, so the wiring is slightly different. Should be easy enough to adapt to the difference though.

I'll be doing this later today, or tommorow, and will report back any findings.

On a side note, does anyone have wiring diagrams? Or even a FSM? My google fu is failing me. All I can find is radio wiring diagrams.
 

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Which wiring diagram do you need specifically? I might be able to send you a PDF file.
 

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Which wiring diagram do you need specifically? I might be able to send you a PDF file.
The main thing I'm looking for is a pinout for the two pcm connectors.

I'm also looking for diagrams for everything between the pcm, tipm, and transmission.
 

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I can put together a PDF file of the TIPM wiring if you want. It'll take a little time as there are 28 pages. PM me your email address is you want the info.
 

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Time for an update. Not so good news so far. Every time I go out for a test drive, everything seems ok at first. Shifting into reverse, or drive, from a stop is a little jerky. When I start to accelerate, it seems fine until it's time to shift. The rpms continue to rise instead of shifting and the cel comes on with p0870 and limp mode.

The p0882 hasn't shown up yet so that part is good. I bypassed the tipm to the control solenoid, while also leaving the original circuit intact incase it's controlling something else at the same time.

I've found next to nothing on the p0870 beyond the definition of the code. I think I'll start a thread in the mechanical problem thread, as this seems to be crossing over from electrical to mechanical at this point.
 
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