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I have a 2011 Dodge Avenger Express 4dr sedan with a 4cyl 2.4L engine and the battery keeps dying.

I typically drive every day so that may have been masking the problem for quite some time so I don't know when this problem really started.

Anyway, two months ago after my car sat for a few weeks the factory battery died, it measured ~5V. I chalked it up to being old and moved on. I replaced the battery and again my car sat a few weeks. I went to use it and the new battery had died. The new battery measured 3V.


To diagnose I used an ammeter between the battery and the negative cable and pulled the fuses one at a time. The only measurable current draw dissapeared after pulling the ganged together 30A IOD Sense fuses in positions 7 & 8 from the TIPM. I see a somewhat steady 50-60mA being consumed -- higher than expected but not alarmingly high. As fast as the battery is dying, I think there is something kicking on intermittently that I'm missing. Or I'm underestimating the 50-60mA current consumption.

I've checked all the switches, knobs, trunk, glove box, and radio. The lights are all off when they should be. The glove box switch is working fine. The radio uses less than 10mA when idle.

The new battery measured 12.64V, 13.81V with the car running, and 12.27V after siting 24hrs.

I have noticed that the mode door (Face, feet, defrost) on my HVAC system has been randomly cycling while I'm in my car trying to diagnose this problem. It's not stuck that I can tell. I cycled it through all positions and it moved right to them. I just don't know why it's moving while the car is off. Seems like every 5 minutes or so it moves.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.
 

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Sounds like you've done the right things. It also sounds like you will need to replace one of your hvac actuators. That cycling will draw energy from your battery. There's also the console light and the trunk light that could be staying on. Any draw above 50ma is unacceptable.
 
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