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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, I've done some preliminary searches but didn't find this issue.

My Avenger will start and run for maybe 3 seconds and then shut down. After repeating this a handful of times, it will stay on and will drive normally. This happens when ever the car hasn't run for maybe 12 hours. I'm thinking it could be the coils or maybe the fuel pump but I don't think the symptoms match the problem 100% for either. Has anyone encountered this issue before and if so, please share your experience.

Thanks, Henry.
 

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Hi, I didn't mention some facts about the car. It's a 2.4L with about 130k. It runs fine once it stays on. I've never given the vehicle a tune up but from what I've read, that may not be the problem. I've also read about factory recalls of which this vehicle has not had any.

Henry
 

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I've recently, changed out the CV joints and have done brakes, tires, oil. We recently had the A/C replaced.
 

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Start out with SPARK PLUGS. For the motor , you're way overdue as they call for them around every 50-60k miles
 

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So, that was fun. I swapped them out and am waiting to see if it happens again.
At least on the 2.4 motor Spark plugs are EASY to do!
Let us know how "start ups" go. Next would be to clean the inside of the throttle body. The butterfly plate is the control for cold start RPM, and the 2.4 is prone to "gunking up" there due to PCV fumes.
 

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At least on the 2.4 motor Spark plugs are EASY to do!
Let us know how "start ups" go. Next would be to clean the inside of the throttle body. The butterfly plate is the control for cold start RPM, and the 2.4 is prone to "gunking up" there due to PCV fumes.
So, started up this morning and same thing.
One thing I tried to test if it was the fuel pump was to turn the key on and leave it on for 10 sec, turn it off, leave on for 10 seconds again, off and then try to start. Same thing. After trying maybe 10 times, it finally started without a problem and ran strong.

Were going to get some MAF cleaner and clean out the air intake area. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm thinking it might be the key!. We only have one key. I changed the battery on the key and it unlocks,pops the trunk, but still doesn't start the car. I'm wondering if I should get t a new key but I'm hearing it's going to be about $150 from the dealer and i don't know if that's the problem.
 

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Ok, so I was doing more digging and read about the security system and the key. I attempted to reset the security system and that didn't help. I was reading about taking out a fuse to disable the security system. I came to believe that this information was provided in jest as it would make a car pretty easy to steal if you could disable the security system so easily. BUT, as I was checking the fuses, I found one that had to do with Auto Shutdown. It's fuse 32 and it's a pink 30 amp fuse. I pulled this fuse and tried to start the car. It wouldn't start but it wasn't doing like before where it would run for 3 seconds and then shut down. I tried a couple times to start it with this fuse pulled. I figured this didn't work so I put it back in. With this fuse back in, I cranked it and it started. I have since not had a problem with it. I've started it multiple times waiting hours in between. I'm not 100% convinced that the problem has been resolved but so far this has had the best results. I will keep the forum updated with how it works.
 

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Ok, so I was doing more digging and read about the security system and the key. I attempted to reset the security system and that didn't help. I was reading about taking out a fuse to disable the security system. I came to believe that this information was provided in jest as it would make a car pretty easy to steal if you could disable the security system so easily. BUT, as I was checking the fuses, I found one that had to do with Auto Shutdown. It's fuse 32 and it's a pink 30 amp fuse. I pulled this fuse and tried to start the car. It wouldn't start but it wasn't doing like before where it would run for 3 seconds and then shut down. I tried a couple times to start it with this fuse pulled. I figured this didn't work so I put it back in. With this fuse back in, I cranked it and it started. I have since not had a problem with it. I've started it multiple times waiting hours in between. I'm not 100% convinced that the problem has been resolved but so far this has had the best results. I will keep the forum updated with how it works.
 

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The car started and ran fine for a couple days. I decided hit the lock button and then hit the unlock button and again, it wouldn't stay running. I pulled the fuse that I had mentioned previously and went through the sequence that I had previously documented. This time, it didn't start. My inclination is pointing me towards the security system (particularly the key) but asking around I consistently hear that I should change the fuel pump.

I'm about ready to take it to the dealer. I feel they would be the best in handling this issue as they would have resources from all over the country.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Thanks.
 

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From what you post...the best step is the dealer level computer system scan. It will check ALL functions of the BCM controlled systems beyond normally available personal OBD11 scanners....Unless you know some independent shop or an auto tech friend with such a "high level" scanner..
Good Luck! ;) :)
 

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From what you post...the best step is the dealer level computer system scan. It will check ALL functions of the BCM controlled systems beyond normally available personal OBD11 scanners....Unless you know some independent shop or an auto tech friend with such a "high level" scanner..
Good Luck! ;) :)
We took it to the dealer and they said that they found codes indicating that the key fob was faulty. That is the the good news. The bad news it's around $350. Going to go pick it up today. I will let you all know what happens.
 
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