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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 Avenger, and last night it died while I was going about 15mph & wouldn't restart for about 5 minutes. It still completely turns over. Battery is only about 4 months old. The check engine light has always come on and off bc of the gas cap. The only caution light I have on is a low tire, but it comes on weekly and goes off when I put air in the tire. All of the research I've done says it could be the throttle sensor, but that light hasn't come on. It did this a couple of weeks ago too. I was in the drive thru at the bank & it just died & I couldn't start it again for 4 or 5 minutes, then it ran fine. The past few days it seems like it cuts out a little while I'm driving 70 on the highway. Any insight would be appreciated...
 

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It would be VERY helpful if you could supply the following information...
Engine size(4 cyl. 2.4 or 6cyl. 3.6)
Miles on the car
AND have you performed(or had done) any recent computer code scan done since this started happening
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry! 4 Cylinder, 108,000 miles. I've had the car for about a year and a half & this is the first issue I've had with it. I absolutely love it. No codes, the nearest AutoZone is almost 50 miles from us so I'm leary about going that far. I drove my daughters car to work today just to be safe. I can get it to the mechanic next week, I'm just looking for a little insight into what it could be.
 

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Well , good to hear that you like your Avenger so. There are known "quirks" that crop up with this motor(just as any other motor has certain quirks).
I understand you are at work now, but when you get home please do the following,
Get in the car with pen and paper and the ig. key
Turn the key from the off to run position(not crank) 3 times in about 10 seconds time. On the 3rd time, leave it in the run position.
IF there are any codes in the computer, they will appear in a P _ _ _ _ format in place of the odometer reading. Once the system has finished sending any codes, it will display the word dONE. Please write down any codes as they show (they will only be displayed once(but can be gotten again by repeating the process stated) and then post them here.

I take it that when you are driving, that the a/c is running and this puts a little more strain on the operation of the motor. IF it has not been kept up with NORMAL maint. like spark plugs being replaced and air filter or the throttle body being cleaned(usually about every 50 k miles), these things can lead to a stalling condition.
For us here to give any specific help to your situation, it will be helpful if you can follow and provide the further information requested.
Good luck and looking forward to hearing back from you later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great, I will definitely do that when I get home. I've been good on the maintenance & I'm pretty sure the guy I bought it from was also. The air filter was changed last week when I had the oil changed & if it hadn't done this at the bank that week, I would have totally blamed them for this.lol. I'm sure it does need the spark plugs replaced, that's something that I was waiting another month for. Thanks so much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, sorry it's taken me so long, we had a bit of bad weather last week so I just drove my daughters car, which I hate. I just tried the key turning thing & it didn't do anything as far as giving me a code.
 

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Well one way or another, to be of much help for you here, we need to know if there are any trouble codes stored in the computer of the car. whether you can do the Key dance thing I posted of before and that you can report back the actual result. You will either get a done message in place of the odometer figure or you will get a code(S) in a P with a 4 digit number(s) and then that word "done" . We need to know exactly what happens to be able to go any further to try and help you. OR take your chances driving it to the NEAREST auto part store that will do free scans, like Auto zone,O'rielley's, NAPA and such.
Good luck, and will be here for further updates.
 

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Glad to hear that the problem was found and fixed. In today's costs, that is about the going rate for the part and labor, so in my book a fair price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was fine with that price. One thing I do want to add, just in case anyone else comes across this issue. On my car, the key code thing worked, but differently. It didn't give me the code on the odometer, which I would have preferred, but it showed the etc light when I did the key code thing. The only reason I was thinking that may not be the issue, was that other people were saying that light was on & mine never came on except for when I did the key code. My check engine light goes on and off, so that's not really a reliable indicator. It's a gas cap thing, but anyways, hopefully this will help someone else. Thanks again for your help!
 

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Well , good to hear that you like your Avenger so. There are known "quirks" that crop up with this motor(just as any other motor has certain quirks).
I understand you are at work now, but when you get home please do the following,
Get in the car with pen and paper and the ig. key
Turn the key from the off to run position(not crank) 3 times in about 10 seconds time. On the 3rd time, leave it in the run position.
IF there are any codes in the computer, they will appear in a P _ _ _ _ format in place of the odometer reading. Once the system has finished sending any codes, it will display the word dONE. Please write down any codes as they show (they will only be displayed once(but can be gotten again by repeating the process stated) and then post them here.

I take it that when you are driving, that the a/c is running and this puts a little more strain on the operation of the motor.
IF it has not been kept up with NORMAL maint. like spark plugs being replaced and air filter or the throttle body being cleaned(usually about every 50 k miles), these things can lead to a stalling condition.
For us here to give any specific help to your situation, it will be helpful if you can follow and provide the further information requested.
Good luck and looking forward to hearing back from you later!

Hi I'm really hoping for a response from the author of this response 5rebel9
I have a '13 avenger I recently bought for $5500 63k miles (which should've made me question waaay more than I did) as soon as i bought it I took it to my mechanic for an inspection. Did oil change, fuel induction and replaced transmission cover, seal & flushed it. About 2 weeks later it almost stalls going down the highway about 90ish. Then the same thing about 3 more times (different trips). While accelerating suddenly los of power and rpm's drop and erradically fluctuate. I put it in neutral each time until I get it to recover then it was fine. Then it happened again only it actually started stalling, fluctuating, back and forth over and over. About 2 hours trying to get down the highway to an exit to pull off. Took it to mechanic but because not once did it throw any code(s) he couldn't find the problem. Took it to another after doing my own research and had him replace the throttle body.
I'm $2000 into repairs and maintainence and still have the same problem.
It still isn't throwing any codes. The Haynes troubleshooting names a number of things. Any direction or advice would be such an enormous help. Please
 

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Thank you I will start with the crank sensor. It finally threw 2 codes P0456 and P0171. My son n law told me it was the map sensor. I replaced it but obviously that didn't work. I ran it on live data until it died again. What I seen was short term fuel trim and long term were perfect until it died. Freeze frame view shows when it died the long term jumps to 39.8. When I get home I'll check the crank sensor but it seems like fuel delivery. I'm still lost.
 

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Thank you I will start with the crank sensor. It finally threw 2 codes P0456 and P0171. My son n law told me it was the map sensor. I replaced it but obviously that didn't work. I ran it on live data until it died again. What I seen was short term fuel trim and long term were perfect until it died. Freeze frame view shows when it died the long term jumps to 39.8. When I get home I'll check the crank sensor but it seems like fuel delivery. I'm still lost.

P0456 is small EVAP leak, not a big concern to your problem.
HOWEVER the P0171 is related. You have some kind of engine vacuum leak that is making the computer richen up the mixture(hence your readings). Seems I remember a number of threads of bad intake manifold gaskets being reported on '13 models. BUT could be a number of different vacuum related things.
 

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OMG thank you. It's a direction to look. It's been worse than looking for a needle in a haystack, I'm looking for a needle in a stack of needles. Everytime I think I can cross something off the list I have to add 5 more. Could it be the 02 sensor? Or purge valve? Or would you start at the manifold gasket? I appreciate any advice you can give.
 

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Don't get to worried just yet. On my further researching the P 0171, there is a possibility that it can set while engine is in process of stalling ou(if pumping gas pedal to try and keep going).
Did you install the crank sensor yet?
 

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No I actually had an emergency in San Diego. I'll be here for another week or so but it's first on my list when I get back to Phoenix.
Every time but this last that it threw that code I was doing exactly that :pumping the gas to keep it ruining.
 

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Ok just an update. Turns out the new throttle body was bad, put a new one on. New Spark plugs, new purge valve cuz there was a leak in the line so I just replaced it while I was there. I replaced the Map sensor a month ago. Did a pressure test on intake, new leaks there.
No codes other than the P0456 but now I'm getting a gascap message on dash. Replaced it with new one but it's still there. And after all that it's still stalling.
 
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