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Discussion Starter #1
So a lot of upgrade posts, figured I would add my two cents.
Custom CAI (built from a Mazda 3 CAI kit)
Upgraded injectors (4-hole to 7-hole)
NP Boosted coil packs
Oil catch can
Completely reworked exhaust cat back (currently straight piped but I have a small muffler coming that will be put in the same place the resonator was originally)
Supposedly "heavy duty" sway bar links and tie rod ends.
Cross drilled lightweight rotors

And for those audio guys
Stock system replaced with pioneer deck
Bose speakers all around
Drilled holes into front pillers and installed tweeters
Single sub in a dual box in the trunk
 

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Sounds like you've been pretty busy making your ride much mire to your "personal taste" :), Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Mikevenger when I had the stock injectors in, the np packs seemed to run a little bit better. Car would start a little easier. With my eve-6 injectors you can definately hear a difference. Car almost runs smoother with both done. Mind you I had to do some minor modifications to get the injectors working right. But alone I would say the np packs are worth it for the price.
 

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What kind of modifications did you have to do for the injectors? im thinking about picking up a 4B11 exhaust manifold when i do my exhaust and getting some better injectors, also have a ported TB on the way and a CAI BYO kit already installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In my case the injectors I got were wider than stock. So they weren't matching the holes properly. Because of that in turn the fuel rail wasn't sitting flush with its mounting bolts.
So just 3 mid size washers per mounting hole in between the rail and mount holes were enough to angle them properly. It's a little jenky but you don't see it at all.

Now I do find that I'll have to do more at some point, as you have to let the car prime a little longer before you start it.(usually 8-10seconds) otherwise the car missfires on start and well...a very rough start. Otherwise it runs perfectly fine. I may see about shaving down the plastic on the injectors a little so they sit in the holes deeper.

Haven't looked into the TB or manifolds myself yet, my car makes a few odd ticking and squeezing sounds I'd like to get sorted first
 

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Yeah my car recently started making a whining sound that I am worried about. I'm getting that fixed before the new TB and exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What kind of whining and where abouts in the engine bay is it?
I've dealt with a lot of weird sounds on mine so figure I might be able to help lol
 

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I linked to the post I made about the engine noise. It is quite long. I've added some information about other problems that just popped up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I mean it's hard to take an educated guess without actually hearing it.
But I'm assuming you have checked all the various hoses to ensure no leaks anywhere?
Left side of the block though....I have heard injectors make a weird whining sound when they are dying (VERY rarely mind you)
I'm not in front of my car and can't remember what else is on that side of the block though... Tried switching the far left side coil with the far right side coil?
Only other thing I can think of is to buy a new head gasket and bolts ect and see about replacing them all. When your inside check for any damages
 

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I added some videos to the thread of the idle noises. I'm trying to get the sounds when I'm driving but my phone doesn't pick it up, gonna try wife's phone tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It may not pick it up when your driving but I fully know that sound. Mine does it too.
My good friend of 10 years is a licensed mechanic, I had him take a listen to mine before and he says it's nothing horrible, it would be a clunkier sound if it was. To him it sounds like lifter tick.
Mine does the exact same thing, ramps up with rpm and speed, cuts off around 60-70 and I find that you don't hear it at all during deceleration until lower Rpms.

He said to pick up a head gasket kit, and bring it to a garage, give the head gasket kit to them to save on parts, and have them do a valve adjustment(since I don't have the tools or know how to do it myself) and if possible pick up a set of lifters for our cars and get the garage to do those as well.
Until then using some marvel mystery oil or some equivalent oil treatment/cleaner should quiet it down a little, or even fix it for a time.
Oh also I had 3 ticks in mine, one is a loose wire in my dash from when I did my tweeters.
Changed my cam position sensor recently and it seems to have fixed or at least helped one of the ticks.
The final tick is internal engine I'm too lazy to deal with lol
But point being try a new cam sensor.
I also have a crank sensor I will be replacing when I get the time/energy.
 

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I replaced both cam sensors, the crankshaft sensor, the input and output speed sensors, added conditioner to the oil and the tranny. I'm starting to feel like it might be the timing chain. Sometimes the car works perfectly. Immediate throttle response and great acceleration. Other times its super sluggish, shifts rough, and gets really loud. The louder it is the clunkier it feels when i accelerate. I think my timing chain is stretch or maybe a bad tensioner. Seems like if it just happens to land in the right place when i kill the car it will crank with no problem the next time. but it might start mid drive. Like I can vroom down the road and ride at 70 for 10 min. when i slow down in the next town it whines like hell when i accelerated under 45.
 

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if it wasnt for the weird throttle lag and loss of power, i would think it is the Alternator or AC clutch. But i can move those freely by hand and they dont feel chonky.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Let me ask, does yours do a weird "jutt" sometimes when it shifts?
Not always, but sometimes when I first start the car, back out of my driveway and start making my way down the road the first shift the car does it lurches a little and then is perfectly fine after? If so the two could be related.
And when your inside the car does the sound seem to come from the driver side dash? (or driver side wheel if your window is down)
I just figure I'll ask because if yours does the same two things then it's possible what we are both experiencing is the exact same problem, might give us (or someone else on here) insight into what's going on.
 

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Let me ask, does yours do a weird "jutt" sometimes when it shifts?
Not always, but sometimes when I first start the car, back out of my driveway and start making my way down the road the first shift the car does it lurches a little and then is perfectly fine after? If so the two could be related.
And when your inside the car does the sound seem to come from the driver side dash? (or driver side wheel if your window is down)
I just figure I'll ask because if yours does the same two things then it's possible what we are both experiencing is the exact same problem, might give us (or someone else on here) insight into what's going on.
Bro I'm way behind on posting on this. I never figured out the noise. I put the car all the way back to stock just to see if one of my mods was causing it but it sounds the same. I've checked everything short of pulling the engine and checking the timings and cam/crank bearings. Yes it comes from driver side when I'm in the car but when I'm outside the car with the hood up it sounds like it's coming from everywhere so I think it may just be resonating through the gaps around the intake. The sound remains unsolved and the mechanics and dealerships I've taken it to say there is nothing wrong but they don't know my car. It's noticably sluggish in shifting accelerating and really struggles on hills. Lately my injectors started clicking really loud and I think I'm gonna have to replace those soon. So the noise continues to be put off.
 

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Oh and as far as the "jutt", that happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd under load and 1st gear kinda sticks under rapid acceleration
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well to be completely honest with you, my venge has been off the road for months.
First I came out of work after a long day, and the car wouldn't start. Had to get it towed home to find out I needed yet ANOTHER alternator. Bought and installed the new alt but it turned out to be faulty. It shorted my security box thing, which costed me about $870 to replace plus they had to reprogram my key. But I still needed an alternator so I went and bought one off of rockauto and that one is good. But after the install my belt started chirping for no apparent reason.
I continued to drive it and the belt was fine even though it's chirping, but then It started overheating. Narrowed it down to the thermostat, replaced both thermostats and housing. That fixed the overheating, but then parked at work, came out after and somebody had hit my passenger side door, left a nice scrape and dent in the door. No note or anything they just took off.
On the way home a clunking started in my rear end. (friend thinks it's my rear rotors are warped which is very possible because I have to use my ebrake in the winter, my rear end likes to slide out)
So I started driving my father's Mustang till I figured out the problems with the venge, and the passenger door situation.
BUT THEN the Mustang blew an outer tie rod end while I was driving it, had to replace a bunch of front end parts in it.
I just have no luck, and funds/time are low to even work on the venge. Not to mention my lack of willingness to work on it after all the crap it's put me through lol

I'll be getting to its issues in the next couple of weeks though once things calm down a little.
In terms of the tick I've kinda just given up on it, it doesn't seem to really effect anything and at the cars mileage I'd rather just let it die like that lol
One little tip though, forget the EVE-6 injectors, it seemed good for awhile. But eventually started popping a crazy amount of fuel/air codes. I tried all sorts of stuff to make them work, including the shaving I had mentioned, but nothing worked. I just went back to original injectors (bought some brand new ones though)
 
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