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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone got a how to guide, hopefully with pics or vid on taking apart the dash of a 2013 to remove stock HU and putting in a aftermarket HU?
 

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Here is a PDF with the instructions for disassembly of the dash. It's about half way down.

The PDF has pix

Unclip and remove the center console trim panel. (Figure A)
2. Unclip the center dash trim panel. (Figure B)
3. Remove (4) screws securing the radio. Disconnect and remove the radio. (Figure C)
4. Remove (3) screws securing the radio rear support bracket and remove the bracket. (Figure D)
Continue to kit assembly
j
 

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Some cars can be a pain, but its safe to say that our new interiors in the JS cars are very easy to access the head unit. Maybe a small flathead to help unhook the harness connectors @ the clock/hazard lights. Not too much to it, you will see
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Basically all plug and play with all the correct harnesses? And any tips on removing the trim without breaking a clip? Thats what im mostly scared of doing
 

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The PAC harness includes the steering wheel control adapter, and from what I am told, is the best way to go. You need that, the dash kit for your radio, and an antenna adapter. THEN it's plug and play... with programing of the SWC.

For the dash, if you have a Harbor Freight close by, I'd suggest grabbing a set of the panel tools. If so, grab these. They are invaluable when removing the trim in our cars.



j
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looking on crutchfield it doesnt list any radios that fit our cars and im 99% sure they do... i was looking at the pioneer avh x5500bhs, or avh x8500bhs, idk the differences in them just they dont have front aux port so whats best way to run the aux cable? I have the basic 4 speakers so still trying to figure out how i could get dash ones installed also.. this is all if i cant trade up to a avenger rt or charger rt though, tired of the little 2.4L i got, want a bit more performance lol so within the next month i gotta figure this all out, would hate to spend 100's of $ for installs on something thats suppose to be pretty easy at home
 

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OK, ANY standard deck, Din or Double Din will fit with the Metra 99-6511 for single Din, and 95-6511 for Double Din. The main difference between the Pioneer 5500 and 8500 is the second USB input on the rear. When I was doing installs, I would route the rear USB to the glove box, or console with an extension. If the car came with one stock, sometimes it would be a standard Mini USB plug, so... just get the appropriate cable to go between. You can get the PAC USB jack kit for about $20 and mount that in the stock location, and plug it into the back of the deck.

If you get a good set of By 9's, you COULD make it sound worse adding the dash speakers. Another alternative is to get separates, and mount the tweeter in the dash speaker location. The hard part is finding an amp and dialing it in.

Good luck to ya, and post up pix if you do the upgrade, either way...

j
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well i have already changed the stock 6x9s with kicker cs694's or cs693? I forget.. but got them from bestbuy, sounds loads better, figured id swap the dashes out if i trade up to a rt or blacktop sxt w/ v6, with the 3.5s, still learning car audio.. didnt know about components at all when i got my 6x9s, and is it hard to bypass the stock amp on the boston acoustics system with aftermarkets? Dunno if all 6 speaker avengers have amp or not.

Also if i keep my 2.4 se i was told to run bass blockers on dash speakers if i installed them, figured id run the doors and rears on a 4 channel amp, sub on a mono d amp, and run adapter from door speaker harness to dash speakers.. dunno how doable that will be though or if our car can handle all that with its battery/alternator? I want bass but not to where it rattles the whole car and sounds like crap.. want decent bass which the 6x9s provide with good clear/loud vocals
 

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Component speakers, simply put, are two speakers separated. The woofer and the tweeter separated so you can mount the tweeter in a more desirable location. There is a new set of Kicker 6X9s that are separates. You can mount the 6X9 woofer in the door, and the tweeter, in the dash. Or, you can do what I did, and buy a high quality 6.5" component set, and put the 6.5" in the door, and the tweeter in the dash. You run the speaker wire to the crossover. The crossover has two outputs. One for the woofer, and one for the tweeter. Now, I went pretty high end with mine, and they sounded fantastic. You can pick up, what I am told is a fantastic set in the Pioneer TS-D series component set, and sound great. You would run only a 4ch amp for your 6 speakers. The crossover takes care of the bass blocker duties.

If this were my car, here is what I would do.

Aftermarket HU with 4V pre-outs
High power 4ch amp ( 110WPC )
High quality component front speakers
Descent rear 6X9s
High power sub amp ( 500 [email protected] )
12" high quality sub

And TUNE TUNE TUNE!

Hope this helps.

j
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Kk ill be sure to get back to you as soon as i know if im keeping or trading up to a v6 or charger, ill look into those kicker components too
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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I personally like the sound better when tweeters are mounted higher; it gives it a better sound stage. You can always give it a try...

Although, in some cars, separating the tweeter/woofer without time-alignment can cause imaging issues. One of the good things about our cars (at least the 2011+ models), is that the tweeter in the dash location are about the same distance from our ear as the mid-woofer in the door location, so its less of a concern.

On another note, take note that 99% of today's stock car systems do not have coaxial speakers... they have a separate woofer and higher mounted tweeter. Chrysler/Honda are usually in the dash, Hyundai/Kia often have them in top part of the door panel, then you have the A pillar area.

Consider ditching the rear speakers, you do not need theme. Plus you already have those Kicker CS 6x9s back there?

Those Pioneer components are surprisingly good.

In the next 3 months will be installing some of the new Sony GS components that just came out last year. There are within the same price range as those Pioneers. I know Sony hasn't made any decent car speakers/amps for a few years, but their new GS series lineup are a refreshing spin (go read the reviews).

I personally would much rather get a single IDQ 12" than those two Pioneers
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68196_Image-Dynamics-IDQ12-D4-V.4.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Was actually looking at kicker L7's i was told they are good and square subs produce better sound? Think i might just get kicker components since i got 6x9s already to save money, if you think it would sound better for the front and the pioneer avh x5500bhs, avh x5600bhs, avh x8600bhs, not sure how useful 2 usb ports will be, think thats all that changed in those.. HU, maybe amp also to power them, no clue what all wiring and stuff is needed or how to even wire it... but gotta learn somewhere lol having an amp and aftermarket HU should increase the sound even more right?
 

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Square subs are limited option, and generally only hit harder and play louder. Due to the design, the quality of the sound is neither as crisp, or better in sound quality than what a round sub will offer. I think its safe to note that pretty much all of the SQ oriented sub-woofers are round. Generally, most in the industry do not recommend square subs.

Aftermarket HU will give you a better noticeable sound; they always have more power, better internal circuitry components... they also often have Burr Brown DAC, and pre-amp outputs (for your external amps) featured.

I believe the units that feature 2 USB ports usually have one on the front and another at the rear; they are useful for people that want to route USB cable wires behind the dash for a more clutter free install, instead of having a USB cable dangle at the front end. Its a personal choice. Sadly a number of the budget receivers do not give you the choice.

If you like your factory head unit, along with its integration, I would recommend looking into adding a sound processor - as a LOC on steroids. JBL MS-8 and Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 are the most famous; they are pricey, so AudioControl is a good alternative if one is on a budget. Sound processors are also VERY beneficial with aftermarket units... thinking time alignment and more advanced equalizers.

What I mean by the rear 6x9s is... you honestly do not need rear full range speakers in a car. I know it's shocking to many, but if you go look at all the SQ competing cars many of theme do not have rear speakers, and they ones that do usually have some sort of processing unit. Also take note that 99% of todays cars feature midwoofers in the rear, not coaxiles/tweeters.

Amplifiers make a huge difference, not just in loudness but details... :smiley_thumbs_up:

Amplifier wiring is a tad complicated without going into much details, but you can start with looking at the 'amp wiring kits'
http://www.crutchfield.com/m_710/Amplifier-Installation.html?tp=539

You will need: Power wire, Ground wire, quality Primary wire ("turn-on lead"), Battery Terminal, Fuse Holder and Fuse(s), a Distribution Block (optional/if powering more than 1 amplifier), Connectors, heat shrink tubing (optional), tools of some sort... more...

I usually draw out all of my components on a piece of paper, down to detail... each wire, each connection, etc... take notes..
 

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forgot to mention where I like to buy car audio wiring/accessories
darvex.com/
knukonceptz.com/
ebay.com/
amazon.com/

These sights are especially helpful for finding all the little things like spade and ring connectors
 

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One thing to consider, if you are keeping your factory head unit, look at the kicker upgrade offered thorough Molar Parts. They have both coaxial and component setups that have the factory connectors, and mounting brackets, and an amp that will power it all.

j
 

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Discussion Starter #20
HU is next on my list, what if i ran the components in the rear and ran the tweeters up to the dash and kept those current 6x9s in door? Would that work and be better or no?

also i bought factory connectors/adapters from bestbuy so i didnt have to cut the plug off the car to wire them
 
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