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This would be my choice, for what it's worth... :)

Castrol Edge Engine Oil: https://goo.gl/CSGbVh

K&N Filters: https://goo.gl/iHMZ5F (I would go for the drop-in air filter)

Mopar Cabin Filter: Part# 5058693AA

89 RON Fuel (or highest available, we have 99 RON here) + A fuel additive/Injector cleaner (I use Redex here in the UK, I don't know what the US equivalent would be...)

Once I have decided on my parts, I normally just Google to find out where I can buy them for the cheapest price.

Hope this helps. :)
 

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I decided to buy 5 gallons of Amsoil full synthetic 5w-20 because it meets specs that owners manual says and I got it dirty cheap from Germany. Hope that covers my next few oil changes. Anyone have used that, did I make a good choice? It is hard to find 5w-20 oil meeting ms-6395 here in Finland.

For filters i bought Wix.
 

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I've registered as an Amsoil Independent dealer if anyone is interested in the information on their product line.
I researched them pretty thoroughly and it seems like excellent stuff. They have data to back up their claims.
Contact me through the forum or through my email.

*Note to forum moderators: if this post violates any sort of guidelines please feel free to remove it. I'm simply offering information or links to test that were performed on this stuff.
 

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3.6l
I run mobile 1 (15,000 mile oil), Wix oil filter, K&N drop in Air filter and run Premium 91-93 Non-ethanol. I have seen 36mpg (average) on a few occasions with mostly Interstate/Freeway driving/long 55mph country roads.

Typically I average 25 mpg (city/highway). If its mostly interstate then Ill see 30-32 mpg.

I only bring up the ethanol because around here its darn near impossible to find any 87 with-out it. (may be up to 10%) If i put anything more than 5%, my mileage maxes out at 29mpg. I cant do anything to get it higher. Now i cant back this up at all, but i think the car runs smoother without-ethanol. I have also tried the E85 and that was horrible mileage, but cost per mileage was about the same as 87.
I may be newer to the site but do some research on fram oil filters before using they are so crappily made that that its all paper and cardboard and don't seal letting what contaminates it has gather to go back into the engine. I have have seen them where they didn't hold up to every day driving and they gut them selves into the engine. There are youtube videos where they cut them open and show you what is inside and how they are constructed. I would suggest everyone looking for oil filters or just curious to check out the videos. Ever since i found out there a few brand i stay away from.
 

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This would be my choice, for what it's worth... :)

Castrol Edge Engine Oil: https://goo.gl/CSGbVh

K&N Filters: https://goo.gl/iHMZ5F (I would go for the drop-in air filter)

Mopar Cabin Filter: Part# 5058693AA

89 RON Fuel (or highest available, we have 99 RON here) + A fuel additive/Injector cleaner (I use Redex here in the UK, I don't know what the US equivalent would be...)

Once I have decided on my parts, I normally just Google to find out where I can buy them for the cheapest price.

Hope this helps. :)
Just as an update, for any Diesel-engined Avenger owners out there. I have been happily using the very reasonably priced Triple QX 5W30 Fully Synthetic oil for VAG vehicles. It can be found on the UK Bay of e, sold by CarParts4Less, or any of its pseudonyms, for around 28.00 GBP. :)

Also, if you are planning on keeping the car for a few years, take a look at K&N’s washable Cabin Filter. :)
 

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I may be newer to the site but do some research on fram oil filters before using they are so crappily made that that its all paper and cardboard and don't seal letting what contaminates it has gather to go back into the engine. I have have seen them where they didn't hold up to every day driving and they gut them selves into the engine. There are youtube videos where they cut them open and show you what is inside and how they are constructed. I would suggest everyone looking for oil filters or just curious to check out the videos. Ever since i found out there a few brand i stay away from.
Well, I guess that I'm a lucky one so far!:eek::D I've been using mid grade FRAM filters for the last 15 years on my vehicles, and NEVER had a oil related engine problem from using them...Ford, Dodges, Chryslers, Kia,Buick...in fact, never had an internal engine problem ever, and my Coupe is the BABY mileage wise at not quite 118k miles! All others were 130 to 210K miles before any were "put down" due to body rot or other system wear out.
 

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I haven't had my Avenger long enough to change the oil yet, but I think it specs 5W30. Branding is always a personal choice, and brand recommendations from dealers / manufacturers are usually nothing more than paid advertisements. Pay more attention to the ratings. All of that said, since it came out, I have not used anything but Penzoil Platinum, synthetic in every car I have owned. As a former truck driver, I came to appreciate Lucas oil treatment. Again, in every car I have owned, an oil change is done with a Purolator filter, 4 qts of Penzoil Platinum, and a quart of Lucas, synthetic, oil treatment. At every oil change, I run a bottle of Techron, gas treatment through on a full tank. I use nothing but Shell gas, if I can help it. Does all of this help? It is really hard to say, but since I started this regimen, I have not had a single motor related issue with any car I have owned. That is sufficient for me to stick with it.
 

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I may be newer to the site but do some research on fram oil filters before using they are so crappily made that that its all paper and cardboard and don't seal letting what contaminates it has gather to go back into the engine. I have have seen them where they didn't hold up to every day driving and they gut them selves into the engine. There are youtube videos where they cut them open and show you what is inside and how they are constructed. I would suggest everyone looking for oil filters or just curious to check out the videos. Ever since i found out there a few brand i stay away from.
I used nothing but Fram filters til I was about 30. Then, a friend of mine who worked at NAPA, said I really should rethink that. He was my friend before he went to work with NAPA, and his bottom line to me was,"If you don't buy my NAPA filter, at least don't buy Fram." That is when I started using Purolator filters. Here is a video that demonstrates the construction of some popular oil filters...

 

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Well for you 3.6 owners, don't forget that your filer is a cartrige type and not a spin on. Also if you can notice Yes they used a PH series FRAM(lowest of the line), Compared to top line filters other than say a Purolator(they don't label it NAPA GOLD for nothing). Yes I have done this same testing 2.5 DECADES ago on my own! Yes I was a WIX brand and then Bosch/Mann filter man, and that was in a TIME WHEN 3K MILE OIL CHANGES WERE THE NORM! Yes Napa GOLD is good, but they also have lower line filters too, did they test those? I have a running disagreement with our most local NAPA store owner, so I don't use NAPA parts very often, unless i'm out somewhere where a different store is handy.
I still stand by my preference for the MID grade(or higher)Fram filters due to cost and ease of access when I buy my oil. And am on a 4.5 to 5 k mile change interval on all the cars in my "stable", and have yet to have any internal oil damage of any ride of mine.
Do what you want, it is your ride to take care of, BUT please don't foist continued "wives tales" about filters.
 

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As mentioned before, this is a love and hate relationship when it comes to fuels and oils.
Me personally as a former Chrysler employee I use Pennzoil Platinum 5-20w in my Avenger. I have since the first oil change and have had 0 issues with the motor. I used to be a Mobil 1 user and when Mobil changed there formula several years ago I have not used it since. I've tried various oils in my old vehicle and I stayed at using Pennzoil Platinum or Amsoil. The "other" oils on the market could not withstand my last engine and when I would send my oil results to BlackStone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com) the results came back stating that Amsoil and Pennzoil Platinum had the least engine wear. But of course this is my experience and everyone else could have different results.
As for the oil filter, I have used the factory Mopar filter and in some cases the NAPA GOLD filter which is a "WIX" filter since the first oil change, but as someone else mentioned;
"I have more consistently used fram filters, But WIX , MANN(german brand) and PUROLATOR are good too"
These are also the other highest rated filters on the market. Now another thing to keep in mind as most oil filters are designed to work there best for about 3000miles. Beyond that the filters start to break down and become useless. I would highly recommend using an oil filter recommended by AMSOIL as there oils run from 10,000+mile interchanges. And I know this from experience as when I had an oil change done on my last vehicle at 5000miles BlackStone suggested the oil was still stable for another 5000miles but there were signs of the oil filter containments in the oil from the filter breaking down.
Anyways, long story short.....
I use:
Pennzoil Platinum 5-20w
Mopar factory filter
93octane fuel (my car is tuned)
otherwise
87octane is better than 89 as the pcm monitors everything anyways. If the pcm detects knock using 87 its going to pull timing. If you want to use the estimated 89octane thats up to you. Me personally if I was stock or minor bolt ons I would use either 87 or 93, I don't like the idea of the mixed fuel to get the mid grade. Now the other end of the spectrum, if you have a flex fuel 3.6 I would definitely recommend E85 for performance as the pcm monitors alcohol content of the fuel and adjust timing and fuel maps for the fuel....
I Agree on the 93 octane!!
MPG is up as well...
More as I learn more!!
Just wish E85 was closer to Our zip 0f the 18336-7 area....
Doc
 

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As mentioned before, this is a love and hate relationship when it comes to fuels and oils.
Me personally as a former Chrysler employee I use Pennzoil Platinum 5-20w in my Avenger. I have since the first oil change and have had 0 issues with the motor. I used to be a Mobil 1 user and when Mobil changed there formula several years ago I have not used it since. I've tried various oils in my old vehicle and I stayed at using Pennzoil Platinum or Amsoil. The "other" oils on the market could not withstand my last engine and when I would send my oil results to BlackStone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com) the results came back stating that Amsoil and Pennzoil Platinum had the least engine wear. But of course this is my experience and everyone else could have different results.
As for the oil filter, I have used the factory Mopar filter and in some cases the NAPA GOLD filter which is a "WIX" filter since the first oil change, but as someone else mentioned;
"I have more consistently used fram filters, But WIX , MANN(german brand) and PUROLATOR are good too"
These are also the other highest rated filters on the market. Now another thing to keep in mind as most oil filters are designed to work there best for about 3000miles. Beyond that the filters start to break down and become useless. I would highly recommend using an oil filter recommended by AMSOIL as there oils run from 10,000+mile interchanges. And I know this from experience as when I had an oil change done on my last vehicle at 5000miles BlackStone suggested the oil was still stable for another 5000miles but there were signs of the oil filter containments in the oil from the filter breaking down.
Anyways, long story short.....
I use:
Pennzoil Platinum 5-20w
Mopar factory filter
93octane fuel (my car is tuned)
otherwise
87octane is better than 89 as the pcm monitors everything anyways. If the pcm detects knock using 87 its going to pull timing. If you want to use the estimated 89octane thats up to you. Me personally if I was stock or minor bolt ons I would use either 87 or 93, I don't like the idea of the mixed fuel to get the mid grade. Now the other end of the spectrum, if you have a flex fuel 3.6 I would definitely recommend E85 for performance as the pcm monitors alcohol content of the fuel and adjust timing and fuel maps for the fuel....
Great Post!
Thanks for ALL of the pointers!
Doc

PS: This is a hoot!! ( I found it on The Blackstone Lab Web page at: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/information/sampling-procedures/oil-changes-101/

How to Change Your Oil
  1. Look out window. Determine that today is the day because it’s supposed to rain all next week and you’re already a thousand miles past when you should have done it. Be sure it’s nice and windy out.
  2. Contemplate changing into old clothes. Reject this idea, reasoning that you’ve done this many times before and can easily accomplish the job without getting oil on yourself.
  3. Cover entire driveway in cardboard, just in case you spill a few drops.
  4. Prepare to drive onto ramps. Remember how much you hate this part. Then go for it! Pull car halfway onto ramps and brake suddenly for fear of shooting over the top. Realize you didn’t go far enough. Go back down. Try again. Repeat, making horrible screeching sounds as the ramps scrape over the driveway, until your neighbors start walking by to find out what the hell is going on. Finally succeed in getting up on the ramps. Turn off the car and set the parking brake. No one’s getting crushed today! Pat self on back.
  5. Crawl under car. Be sure to properly judge where the catch pan should be in order to actually catch the oil. An important consideration is the wind. Ensure that the wind is able to lift the cardboard, moving the catch pan around. (A secondary benefit to a windy day is the opportunity for your roll of paper towels to completely unspool as it blows away.)
  6. Notice you brought the wrong wrench. Get back out from under car and get a crescent wrench to ensure the drain plug corners get rounded off. Crawl back under car to begin process.
  7. Be very careful to push against the bolt as you begin to loosen it to prevent the oil from gushing out, and to keep the nut from falling into the pan. As hot oil begins to flow down your arm, remember that this never, ever works the way it’s supposed to.
  8. It should be windy enough that as oil stream beings to slow, the wind can splatter oil into your face and onto the places where the cardboard is no longer covering the driveway.
  9. When the oil is almost completely drained from the pan, remember that you forgot the sample container. Swear loudly as you crack your head on the bottom of the car in the rush to scramble out and get the oil sampling kit.
  10. Set bottle aside and let remaining oil finish draining from the pan. While searching for drain plug, knock bottle over, spilling sample. More swearing is in order.
  11. Time to change the filter. As you retrieve your new, cheap oil filter wrench from the workbench, recall tightening the hell out of the filter last time. Begin removing filter. Then try again as the wrench slides freely around the filter base. Repeat until you are again swearing loudly. Retrieve screwdriver and pound through the side of the filter, wrenching it off the bolt.
  12. Frantically try and unscrew the filter as the oil drains out. Watch as oil crawls along the sub frame and drips everywhere but the pan and cardboard.
  13. Crawl back out from under the car to retrieve new filter, which is still on the workbench. Crawl back under car for the sixth time. Install new filter. You’re done!
  14. Rest your poor neck muscles. Remember that you could pay the dealer $125 to do the job competently. But then you wouldn’t get to experience the therapeutic sensation of hot oil running down your forearm and onto your sleeve, or what happens when you start refilling with new oil before remembering that the drain plug is still in your pocket.
Happy changing!

Many thanks to longtime Blackstone customer Glen Beattie, who found the original version of this how-to article online and brought it to our attention.
 

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Being the "new" owner of a 2014 2.4 with 93000, and no history, I use castrol 5w20 high mileage synthetic blend and fram filters, have always used castrol in my performance bikes, 80% interstate driving. Liberty non-ethanol 87.
 

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OK...
Our Ride = 2011 Model Year Avenger Heat 3.6 purchased in January of this year with 61k.
Since I don't know what oil has been used in it in the past, I am running Quaker State and Mobil 1 Oil Filters .
Since I can't find a synthetic blend by QS that meets the Mopar MS-6395 spec,( at least locally ) My Better Half suggested using 50%Full synthetic and 50% non-synthetic (weirdly both of those grades of Quaker State DO meet the MS-6395 spec!)....
Man am I a Blessed Guy to have met Her just about 20 years ago!
So far I am seeing 27.8 mpg in combined using 93 octane, driving about 65% city and the rest a combination of some freeway and country roads that are fairly hilly.
The history of the Mopar MS-6395 spec is kind of interesting....
Worth looking up IMHO.
Doc
 

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I must say after seeing a couple of engine's insides after a life of Penzoil, I was disappointed . I don't recall how often the owners changed Their oil etc.
But, that was years ago...probably a way different oil today.
My opinion is: Use an oil that meets the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, a good filter and change it at no more than 5k miles.
Just My opinion....
Doc
 

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I've also been searching a lot about what fuel type to use in my 2.4, a lot of people say go ahead and use premium and a lot of people say don't because it's a waste.. I'm definitely no granny driver but I'm also not racing all the time so I was thinking about trying 89 in it. Thoughts?
 

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Under NORMAL driving conditions(which is what all specs from the factory are designed to) you'll not achieve appreciable gains to anything with a properly maintained(more than just regular oil/filter changes). A oil consuming and carboned up valve train will benefit from higher grade fuels, but that is really a mask(band aid) to engine overall condition.
 

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So far, running 93 octane has improved Our combined mpg to27.6 which is up from the 24-25 range.
When just across the line in New Jersey We can get 93 octane for 2.89 per gallon.

Will snag a tank of E85 tomorrow when down towards Newark.
I really like the engine response with E85 but it's a haul to get it unless We're down closer to the Nyc/Newark area for Dr's appts etc.
I think I recall reading about E85 tunes that could get a 3.6 up into the 340 hp neighborhood...wonder how the stock transmission would tolerate that kind of hp and torque......
Doc
 
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