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Hello! I’ve got a 2014 Dodge Avenger 2.4L SE and I’ve got some electrical problems goin on with it. I wired up some subs + new head unit into my car and everything was fine for almost two weeks. One day I noticed the interior lights(not map lights) that glow, for example PRNDL, cup holder light, AC control lights, steering wheel lights, started flickering when I turn the headlight switch on. They flicker 6 times then shut off. Even the dash flickers until I actually turn the car on. After I noticed the flickering, I got pulled over for having no tail lights. The rear brake and turn signal works , but the regular tail lights are simply not on. I think the tail light is connected to whatever is making my interior lights flicker. I looked at some of my fuses and they didn’t look blown , but I haven’t tested any of them yet. I even got down in the wheel well and disconnected my battery for 30 min to see if I could reset the TIPM. Nothing has worked so far. If you guys have any advice I would really appreciate it. I’ll be checking this post daily to see if any of you have any advice. Thank you !

Edit: I think the source may have something to do with the instrument Cluster. I've seen a few things on how the Instrument Cluster controls a few functions including lights, but I don't know where to start. Have any of you had this problem?

I've got a video of the problem and I posted it on youtube, hopefully it gives you guys a better idea about whats going on. Link is below.

 

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If all was fine before the upgrades this is how I would proceed. How old is you battery and how clean are the + and - connections from the battery to the jumping terminals? All need to be shine bare metal clean and lubed with dielectric grease. Battery needs to be load tested to see what kind of shape it is in. After these items are attended to, I would go back to where the issue began by disconnecting the subs and the radio and see what happens to the lights. If they work fine, then hook up the radio to test the system. If all works well then hook up 1 sub at a time to see what happens. These newer vehicles are very critical about stable power and can have issues with a very small tolerance on it. Good luck.
 

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The people at Crutchfield are very good with technical questions about aftermarket set ups if you send them an email:cool:

 

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If all was fine before the upgrades this is how I would proceed. How old is you battery and how clean are the + and - connections from the battery to the jumping terminals? All need to be shine bare metal clean and lubed with dielectric grease. Battery needs to be load tested to see what kind of shape it is in. After these items are attended to, I would go back to where the issue began by disconnecting the subs and the radio and see what happens to the lights. If they work fine, then hook up the radio to test the system. If all works well then hook up 1 sub at a time to see what happens. These newer vehicles are very critical about stable power and can have issues with a very small tolerance on it. Good luck.
The battery is brand new and I made sure to tighten the terminals nice and tight. I did a load test on the Battery and alternator, but everything came back good. I disconnected the subs and radio for a week and nothing changed so I hooked them back up. I talked to my local audio shop and they advised me to hook everything up back to stock and see if it changes anything. I disconnected the subs and threw the stock radio back in for a day, didn't do anything.

Its not throwing any codes, so right now im just scrambling for any clues i can get.

My next goal is to find a wiring diagram of the instrument cluster and the tail lights and the circuit that is involved. I think there is a connection between the two and if i can find the link, I may be able to fix this problem. If you guys stumble across those diagrams please send them my way! haha, I could really use the help.

Thank you guys for helping out, i really appreciate it!
 

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For electrical trouble such as you post, a low level OBD11 scanner will NOT lead you anywhere. You would need a high level(like chryslers scanner) that can go into the body control systems(CAN/BUS) and also read such as lighting.
My guess is that you disturbed something in the trunk with your work, cheapest way around things is to open things up and inspect visually in any area back there that was worked on by you(under panels,carpeting,etc.). LED lighting(pretty sure the later models were OE) can be very touchy, particularly IF a voltage spike happened during your audio work.
Good Luck! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For electrical trouble such as you post, a low level OBD11 scanner will NOT lead you anywhere. You would need a high level(like chryslers scanner) that can go into the body control systems(CAN/BUS) and also read such as lighting.
My guess is that you disturbed something in the trunk with your work, cheapest way around things is to open things up and inspect visually in any area back there that was worked on by you(under panels,carpeting,etc.). LED lighting(pretty sure the later models were OE) can be very touchy, particularly IF a voltage spike happened during your audio work.
Good Luck! :)

I think you're right! I got in my car yesterday and the lights were working again. I hit this deep pothole and my interior lights shut off then on for a brief moment, so thats when i knew I have a faulty connection somewhere. The lights stayed on the whole drive home so i started experimenting when i got home. I started jingling the stereo wiring harness and nothing happened. I went to the back of the trunk and i slapped near the tail lights and they went out! so the source of the problem is in the trunk on the drivers side. I don't understand why a faulty connection in the trunk would make my dash and interior lights flicker. I'm going to do some more research and mess with it today, i'll see what I can figure out. Thank you guys so much for the help i really appreciate it!
 
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