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Hi everyone. I have a 2008 Avenger SXT 2.4L. I’m having issues and am hoping someone could suggest something or guide me in the right direction. I use my car for work (lots of driving) and have 220,000 miles. Replaced the engine last year with one that had ~50k on it. The car is far from stock. Lots of new parts and issues fixed as soon as they arise. On to the problem.

Day 1: No issues. Went into the store for about an hour. Came out, turned the key and the engine kept cranking for a long time. Eventually turned over, RPMs were at 1500 and car was running rough. P0335 (crankshaft sensor) and the lightning bolt was flashing. No way I could get home safely so I had it towed.

Day 2: Changed the crankshaft sensor and camshafts while I was at it. Changed the battery too. Car still taking a while to turn over when engine is cold. Crankshaft code only comes back after cranking so long. I’m assuming it’s because the car isn’t starting up within so many seconds and the sensor is okay? If the car is warmed up, it will turn over and start like normal. No codes then.

Day 3: Extended crank time, but car started. P0335 code. Cleared the code. Car warmed up, no codes. I drove around like normal and had no issues. No codes came back. Put on a decent amount of miles. Had the battery and alternator tested. All came back good.

Day 4: Same thing with the extended cranking in the morning with car cold. Once car turned over it was running good. I went to leave and noticed there was a lack of power. Acceleration wasn’t strong. As I went to pull it back into the garage, the car shut off completely. I was able to start it right back up and pull back in. Removed the starter and had that tested as well. Took it to two different places and both said it was good.

Day 5: I changed the fuel pump. I had issues with this particular model in the past so I figured might as well try. The lack of power/shutting off was similar to my fuel pump failure in the past. Tried starting it up after and had the same long crank then turn over when the engine is cold. I was getting P0300 (multiple misfires) and could feel lack of power again. Once the car warmed up I was able to drive it like normal again. No codes. Kinda hoping It just needed a bit of driving to reset everything/relearn etc.

I’ve also replaced the spark plugs with the ones the book recommends. The ignition coils are newer, but I swapped them with others I have and am still having issues so I don’t think there’s issues there. The throttle body is new as well. Replaced the coolant temp. sensor as well. I haven’t looked at the fuel injectors. I’m not sure what else is left. I’m sure when tomorrow morning comes and the car is cold, I’m going to have the extended crank again. It seems my main problem is the extended crank when the car is cold and that’s somehow connecting to these other issues.

Any ideas? I’m afraid this cold start issue is a sign of a much bigger problem. It’s puzzling me because the car runs wonderfully once warm. Thank you in advance for any help.
 

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Still getting the "lightning bolt"?
You may want to lift up the TIPM/Fuse panel and check the pin wire s and plugs underneath for good clean connections, being a "cold start" issue, many engine power sources come thru the TIPM.
Good luck and keep us informed to your progress, we will try and help as we can!
 

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No lightning bolt anymore. Not since the first day. Same thing with the extended crank then start this morning. Checked all those plugs/connections and everything seemed good
 

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Just how long is "extended crank" , a few seconds or 30 sec. to 1 minute? You could try cycling the key a second time before engaging the starter motor. Got a feeling that fuel pressure is bleeding down overnight and may be due to a leaking injector, Cycling the key a second time should build up enough fuel press. for a quicker start if it is a leaky injector, for a "quick test". No CEL or poor engine performance otherwise?
 

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Got another crankshaft sensor going to try that out. CEL only comes on when it takes time to start (P0335 comes on all the time and sometimes P0300). I have a video of trying to start it but cant figure out how to post it successfully, I keep getting an error. I'm going to test the injectors now too. I tried priming it a few times and that doesn't seem to help in the past, but I can try again. It usually takes 4-5 seconds to start.
 

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What brand sensors are you using for crank and cam? Also I've heard of problems with the PCV valves going bad and causing some issues(a vacuum leak). They are not costly and worth being changed. Starter motor is fine, it has no bearing on the engine firing. Once running it seems to run fine, almost rules out injectors but would suggest a treatment of Sea Foam in the gas tank.
The sound of the motor cranking almost sounds like timing is advanced, possible something amiss with the VVT solenoid?? hard to tell you how to check that out as I don't have that motor in my older(different) Coupe model.
 

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I had NAPA camshaft sensors and an Autozone duralast crankshaft sensor. Changed the crankshaft to the NAPA one that the car originally was okay with. Car now starts right up, but now I’m seeing some new issues. RPMs are going all over(1000-3000). Engine just keeps surging. Lightning bolt flashing and stayed from 1000-1500 RMPs. Also got codes P0171 and P2173. Related to lean conditions and high airflow.
 

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Just realized my PCV hose just cracked and I’m thinking that’s why it’s surging and airflow. Going to store now to try and figure something out
 

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Well I guess I haven't called things too far off so far. Should be able to snake a new PCV hose around without too much trouble. May want to remove the air cleaner for more working room. And put in a new PCV valve while you're at it.
Good Luck!
 

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Got it figured out! Turns out it was the crankshaft sensor all along. I now have both Cam sensors and Crankshaft sensor all from NAPA. Guess my Venge didn't like the Duralast crankshaft sensor or the mix of brands lol. As far as the PCV goes, I just got a piece of 1/2" heater hose and some Loctite wrap tape and attached it to both ends where the break happened. Going to order the whole hose online and tackle that when it comes. Guess I just did some "preventative maintenance" and now have a new battery, fuel pump, and throttle body.:LOL: Thanks for replying and helping out.
 

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Our cars like to have the sensors that they were designed with rather than aftermarket. Spark plugs are mainly Champion, O2 sensors NTK/NGK/ Mopar crank and Cam position sensors etc.
 

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Got it figured out! Turns out it was the crankshaft sensor all along. I now have both Cam sensors and Crankshaft sensor all from NAPA. Guess my Venge didn't like the Duralast crankshaft sensor or the mix of brands lol. As far as the PCV goes, I just got a piece of 1/2" heater hose and some Loctite wrap tape and attached it to both ends where the break happened. Going to order the whole hose online and tackle that when it comes. Guess I just did some "preventative maintenance" and now have a new battery, fuel pump, and throttle body.:LOL: Thanks for replying and helping out.
Hi there!I’m having exactly the same issue on my ‘08 avenger,extended crank when cold,the same trouble codes when cold,perfectly fine when the engine gets warm.The sensor has been replaced about a month ago,i am trying to buy a genuine MOPAR one this time.Will that fix my problem?Did you needed to perform a relearn process to the sensor after installing it,or it worked fine whitout one?Also i might have done the installation wrong from first by forgetting to unplug the battery?thanks in advance for any help
 

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Could just be a crappy sensor. The AutoZone ones didn’t work for me. I couldn’t get a MOPAR one quickly so I used a NAPA one(it says OEM on the receipt but idk if it is or not) and it works great. You should change the Camshaft sensor at the same time as well. It’s easier to get to since you don’t have to go under the car. No relearn for me. I think I just had the battery disconnected for a little bit
 

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Could just be a crappy sensor. The AutoZone ones didn’t work for me. I couldn’t get a MOPAR one quickly so I used a NAPA one(it says OEM on the receipt but idk if it is or not) and it works great. You should change the Camshaft sensor at the same time as well. It’s easier to get to since you don’t have to go under the car. No relearn for me. I think I just had the battery disconnected for a little bit
I was planning to replace the camshaft sensor as well anyway.Once you’ve replaced and put the Napa sensor,as well the cam sensor,did the check engine light dissapered straight away,did it come back on in the morning when first start with the engine cold?did you disconnected battery from under the hood(boney) or from the battery itself,both + and - or just the -?it seems that the car doesn’t store the good functioning of the sensor,once it’s running fine and it still holds the faulty sensor in memory.Thank you
 

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@Mike86, First off WELCOME to the Forumz, I see you are over in the UK. Is your Avenger Petrol 2.4 or the Diesel?
The Sensors talked about are "plug and play" no need to clear the computer long term memory,BUT you want to do a couple of driving cycles for the computer to fully adjust to new (and hopefully correct) info from the sensors. CEL lights will go out on thier own after computer see's good readings, and again a matter of a few drive cycles to erase from stored memory(which is NOT used for current running).
 

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@Mike86, First off WELCOME to the Forumz, I see you are over in the UK. Is your Avenger Petrol 2.4 or the Diesel?
The Sensors talked about are "plug and play" no need to clear the computer long term memory,BUT you want to do a couple of driving cycles for the computer to fully adjust to new (and hopefully correct) info from the sensors. CEL lights will go out on thier own after computer see's good readings, and again a matter of a few drive cycles to erase from stored memory(which is NOT used for current running).
My Avenger is a 2.0 petrol actually.Is that a “plug and play” size of engine for the sensor?Thank you
 

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As antb1218 states above i’ve spent a lot of money trying to fix it,replaced spark plugs,ignition coils,a lot of investigations have been done on the car,all wirings have been checked,everything else seems to be ok.After all investigations done,it all leads bank to crankshaft sensor.It’s always the first engine start,or when the engine is cold,just like in the video posted above by antb1218.After that it runs perfectly fine,it starts straight away.If i clear the CEL it doesn’t come back on until i first start the car when engine is cold,that’s when it’s coming up blinking,after i turn off ignition and on again,it start fine,the CEL in on ,however not blinking,it just stays lit,but the car is running perfectly.You said that some driving cycles are required,and honestly i didn’t drove it a lot after the “fix”.On diagnostic tool it shows cranskshaft sensor not learned,but neither giving the special function to relearn it,like the Throttle always does,or Adaptive Numerator...So i’m thinking you might be right and it’s “plug and play”.When i replaced the sensor,i didn’t disconnected the battery,just replaced and started the car up.There is a big difference since before replacing the old sensor,the car was always misfiring,and wasn’t running properly,now it’s just when the engine is cold.Now the sensor i had was a cheap one bought for 12£(aprox 15$).I found and plan to buy a genuine Chrysler OE one and that costs57£(aprox 60$),probably also buying,and replacing the camshaft sensor as well while at it.Before doing this do i have to disconnect the cables from the battery itself,or from under the hood(bonnet in UK)?My battery is somewhere under the airfilter,behind the front left wheel(tyre).There is also a red + cable for jump starting,and a black - cable attached (screwed)to the chasis under the hood(bonnet).Then replace the sensors,and reconnect baterry.Are the sensors “plug and play”?Like i said my car is an Avenger SXT 2.0 petrol VVT.Thank you
 

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Yes, still the same. It is helpful when members disclose the "particulars" of their vehicle when seeking help. Particularly when from the EU market, as the Avenger series had 5 different engine options worldwide.And each seems to have their own "quirks" to deal with.
 
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