Help - Lights dimming and speedometer goes down to zero while driving (and warning lights come on)

Discussion in 'Dodge Avenger Mechanical Problems and Questions' started by Jonah, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    Hello all,

    My car is a 2011 dodge avenger 3.6L with around 180k miles. I had the transmission rebuilt about a month prior to my current problem. Everything was running smoothly, then I was driving down the road, and I noticed all of my lights flickering (head lights and dash lights). Then car would beep like it does when a warning light comes on, and the check engine light, abs light, and traction control lights would all come on and the speedometer reading would go to 0. Then it would all go back to normal. Then it would do it again. I've changed the battery and alternator so I know those aren't the issue. I hooked a multi meter up to my battery and watched it while my car was idling (and lights flickering) and I can see the voltage go all over the place going as low as 9 volts, and as high as 15, and everywhere in between. From what I've been able to find, the voltage is regulated by the car's computer, so I ordered a new, pre-programmed computer from "All Computer Resources." They sent some literature noting that the computers rarely fail without something causing it, and give a number of things to check. One being the TCC solenoid connector terminal A & D ohm value. I'm not sure where this is located or how to check it on this vehicle. I don't want to change the computer if there might be something else causing it to fail. Also, is there anything else that can be causing the issue I am having? Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I've just spend $2600 on a transmission repair and would like to get the car back going reliably. I'm pretty good mechanically, but when it comes to electrical stuff, I don't know a whole lot...
    Thanks!
    Jonah
     
  2. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    How about going back and checking for good, clean and tight grounds from the trans. R&R that was done. Not just at the battery or jumping posts. You may want to check the wire connection under the TIPM, if they may have removed it for access for the trans. work.
    Welcome to the Forumz, drop by the Newbie Check in page and introduce yourself to the whole "gang" here.
     
  3. Intrepid

    Intrepid Active Member MOTM Winner!

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    Did you read any CEL codes that may have been triggered? You can also try to disconnect your negative terminal at the battery or jumper terminal for about 20 minutes to clear codes. See what happens after that, before investing too much. Also, as Rebel mentioned, the connections at the TIPM or the TIPM itself may be bad.
     
  4. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    Thank you both for the quick reply's. Those are good points. I'll pull the TIPM and check all connections in the area to make sure they are properly connected. I did check for codes, and the only one that came up was for my O2 sensor (which has been bad for a while, I just never got around to changing it). Also, I forgot to mention previously, that when the voltage is fluctuating during idle, the engine runs rough...I'll report back after I check the TIPM
     
  5. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    So I pulled the air filter housing and checked all the connections that I could see going to the transmission (and in the area). Went under the car and didn't see any under there to check (maybe I missed some?). Didn't find anything that wasn't tight or looked wrong. I then pulled up the TIPM and checked all the connections ensuring they were tight and inspected the wires to make sure there wasn't any damage or anything that could be shorting there, and I didn't find anything. Not sure where to go from here?..
     
  6. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Then reset the TIPM, the way member Intrepid said and see what happens.
     
  7. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    I had disconnected the negative battery lead as Intrepid recommended yesterday while I was checking the TIPM. This was disconnected for more than 20 mins, so it should have reset. I didn't get any codes are anything after this, just the same issue I've been having. I'm at the point where I want to change the computer and see if that works. I just don't know how to do the test on the TCC solenoid connection as the recommend in the attached document. Does anyone know how this is done and where the TCC connection is located? Any other suggestions are welcome as well.

    Thanks,
    Jonah
     

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  8. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    The TCC solenoid is what locks the torque converter for high gear overdrive. IF that is bad a couple of things will be noticed while driving. Stuck on it will seem like the car wants to stall when decelerating to a slow speed or stop. Stuck off the tach will read higher rpm's like you still a ha gear to go into yet.
    The connection you question is on the transmission and you need to have and know how to use a DVOM(Digital Volt Ohm Meter) The instructions posted are pretty clear.
     
  9. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    Thanks. I changed the computer and it's doing the same stuff. I don't know what else to do with this thing. Between the transmission and now replacing the battery, alt, and computer, I've spent over $3200 on this POS and still can't use it! so disgusted
     
  10. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Well you wanted to throw parts at it BEFORE a Thorough Diagnostic by a reliable technician was done. Which should be your next step. I still get the feeling of a major GROUND (heavy cable) loose connection from when trans was out for repair.
     
  11. Intrepid

    Intrepid Active Member MOTM Winner!

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    You've changed most everything except the TIPM itselfo_O Maybe you can pick up a used one at a salvage yard for around $100 just to try it?????? Saw some on Ebay for $75-$110.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
  12. jimgcastle

    jimgcastle New Member Military

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    Alternator is controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) with power supplied through the TIPM. Start with checking fuses for good connection in the TIPM and you might try pulling the connectors and hitting them with a LITTLE WD-40 and plugging them back in to make sure there are no bad connections there as well. My car does the same thing only not as bad as you describe. In my case I just think the PCM is a bit slow responding to voltage fluctuations since I can't find anything else wrong.
     
  13. Jonah

    Jonah New Member

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    So after messing with it and changing all those parts, I finally threw in the towel and decided to bring it to the dealership to see if they could figure it out. They called me a couple of days later and said the battery (which was the first thing I replaced) was bad. According to them they did a load test and determined it was the issue. I was super skeptical but went pick up my car and it ran perfect! No light dimming, no warning lights coming on or speedometer going to 0 while driving. I was so happy! Then yesterday on my way home (after it running perfect for 2 days), I stopped at a gas station, and when I came back to my car and went to start it up, I had absolutely no power to anything! Like the battery wouldn't have even been connected. This had happened to me one time before when I first started having issues with the car. The first time it happened, it wouldn't do anything, then all of a sudden the alarm went off as if someone had tried to get into the car, and it had had power and started right up. So now this time when it happened the car wasn't doing anything. At this point I'm convinced it has to be something loose around the battery, so I popped the hood and inspected it, and everything look correct. So I left my door open so I could see if I would get power back, and started wiggling around all the wires in the immediate area around the battery, TIPM, and computer. I did this a few times and then noticed my interior light was on, so I tried to start the car and it worked. After it started up, it was right back to doing the same Sh** it was doing before I brought it to the dealership (dimming lights, alarms coming in and out and all that crap). I checked for codes and has some for the abs, and speed sensor, but I'm thinking this may have been from something shorting out. I looked around the break system and didn't find anything loose or anything. So I brought it back to the dealership today and let them know what happened. Hopefully they can figure it out. Besides the fact that I'm without my car, it's killing me to not know what the issue is!!!
     
  14. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Don't know how you can get to the battery from under the hood? But as member Intrepid said, you may have a bad TIPM(fuse panel) There is a printed circuit board onder the fuses and relays, and have been know to go bad.
     

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