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2011 Avenger lux 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all. Thinking these symptoms need their own thread now. The car is new to me with 90k miles and I've only driven it a handful of times. Test drive felt okay and getting it home I felt a hesitation or misfire. I immediately put new air filters, NGK coils, Denso plugs and a pcv valve in. Took it on the freeway after and still felt some rough spots.

The check engine light came on alongside the traction light a week ago. I replaced the camshaft sensor #1/A with mopar after having a napa part act worse. Crankshaft sensor replaced because the mopar parts guy recommended it. The electric throttle light came on after putting these parts in. The idle speed also changed to be very high at first. The pedal suddenly felt unresponsive. I didn't test drive it after that. Also while I was under the car for the crankshaft sensor there were loose bolts on the engine oil pan and a small leak! I tightened them up a bit.

I put in a aftermarket throttle body a few days ago. The old throttle body had a minor amount of oils. The first few short outings felt great. All the lights were gone and it felt responsive. I took it to the freeway yesterday and the symptoms came back once I attempted to pass someone. p0340, traction lights, throttle light, hesitation, and now it felt unresponsive even at low speeds. It was unresponsive even when placed in the shift selection mode.

Are there any ground points under the engine related to the throttle or camshaft sensors? Is there a reset or relearn procedure for the new throttle?

I also want to test camshaft sensor B and load test the battery. The ground points that I could see look clean. I disconnected the battery this morning hoping the computer resets things and will make an excuse to take it out after work.
 

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What engine are you running? What Year? If it's the 3.6 you have to take off the intake to replace the cam sensors. When you take off the intake, you are supposed to replace the intake seals as they a one time use Item. Another thing that can go with the early 3.6 is the cam phasers. Big job. One that I'm hoping to avoid as it will be farmed out with the tools and time involved it getting them changed.
 

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2011 Avenger lux 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I put the battery cable back and drove a 2 mile round trip. It ran fine for a few minutes, but on the way back acted up. The check engine light and a traction symbol returned. The throttle symbol did not trigger. It was mostly neighborhood driving. In lower speeds it was extremely jerky after the lights triggered.

Key dance said done, obd scanner says p0340 twice.
 

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Sounds like wiring and not a plug and play part solution needed for the P0340(can cause your other symptoms).
90k on the clock and we here don't know how well maintained the car was before you got it, there is the possibility that the VVT oil control solenoid for the intake cam may not be functioning properly. Been hearing on another FCA forum about the 2.4's having this problem and due to sludging from too long of oil change intervals.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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2011 Avenger lux 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like wiring and not a plug and play part solution needed for the P0340(can cause your other symptoms).
90k on the clock and we here don't know how well maintained the car was before you got it, there is the possibility that the VVT oil control solenoid for the intake cam may not be functioning properly. Been hearing on another FCA forum about the 2.4's having this problem and due to sludging from too long of oil change intervals.

Good luck and keep us posted.
That may very well be it. The wiring on bank A cam seems to be doing its job. From the state of the air filters, plugs and the inside of the car I figured it's been neglected. I still haven't checked bank b just because there is a heat shield

When I pulled the old cam sensor it was an aftermarket already and it had some goopy buildup on it.
 

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2011 Avenger lux 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took the intake side variable timing (vvt) solenoid put this morning. It was gummy and moved but slowly with a wet sound instead of a clear click.

The intake side solenoid is here, exhaust side is directly behind it. I got to it by disconnecting the pcv tube and the sensor below it. Only needed 10mm and an extension. After taking it out I tested it with a 9v battery and cleaned it with mass airflow sensor cleaner until it clicked normally and quickly. I'll take it for a drive and update later.

19749
 

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2011 Avenger lux 2.4L
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The code p0340 came back after a couple of trips out. Tested the exhaust side camshaft sensor this morning;it is another aftermarket but seems okay. Exhaust side vvt solenoid was gummed up so I cleaned it, camshaft sensor had a layer of gummy oil as well. I retested the intake side solenoid and camshaft sensor both looked good.

Maybe the oe and aftermarket camshaft sensor are performing slightly differently and the computer is having trouble?

My friend who is a Chevy mechanic suggested I take the valve cover off and truly clean the sludge. He also suggested seafoam since I didn't want to spend much time on it. Has anyone had a good experience using seafoam in their crankcase?
 

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SeaFoam in the crankcase I treat as those 10 minute gunk flush cans. On old oil(or prepared to change again right away) and NO high rpm or above 30 mph.
I've been more comfortable with adding a quart of Marvel Mystery oil when oil is low enough for more prolonged driving/cleaning time. BUT NO SPIRITED REVVING or DRIVING. while in there for about 250 miles before draining and filter change.
Do some research on both products for their directions, I just posted as I have done in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found some marvel mystery oil. Seafoam was sold out. Doesn't look like I can add anything much to the crankcase right now so I'll wait. I was already planning on doing a few earlier oil changes to gently clean out anything in there. I think I'll see how much driving I can squeeze in the next 2 weeks and grab some seafoam then.

My wife got the car to trip the p0340 again. It didn't act like it was going in and out of maybe limp mode or hesitating this time. I took it out and drove it hard without any trouble. This feels like progress. Fingers crossed
 

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Seafoam does a good job of removing sludge. My son had a 1500 with a 4.7 that was totally sludged up when he got it. The oil fill cap and the valve cover were covered with almost half an inch. We added Seafoam to the crankcase and ran for 20-30 minutes and drained and changed the milky oil and it never came back. Next oil change was totally normal used oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I finally got a couple hundred miles on it with marvel mystery oil inside. Changed the oil and the light and code cleared on its own. It is behaving much better as well.

The oil came out nasty, thick and milky even though the windshield sticker suggested another 2k miles.
 

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Glad to hear that things have worked out on this problem. Keep an eye on the oil "looks" at the next oil change. I would suggest doing so a bit early and maybe another dose of MMO. OIL although creeping up in price is still way less than a blown motor from having been "sludged up" so badly as yours seemed to be.
:) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
900 miles later and the p0340 came back with the hesitation to accelerate. Oil still looks okay and the camshaft wires passed my tests, but I'm going to rewire it anyways.

I found a camshaft sensor wire kit on Amazon from a new seller . It's shipped from China so it'll take weeks to get here. Doesn't hurt to give it a try. I'll update how it goes.

DigiAutoPart Camshaft Position Sensor Connector wiring harnesses 19299690
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Took 4 weeks to get to me and I've not had time to do it until recently. The new wire harness worked. The wires were aluminum and OE was copper.

After soldering them I routed the wires underneath the main harness so they wouldn't rub anywhere.
 

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2.2 Daytona Shelby z 2.4 2014 dodge avenger
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2.4L 11. I didn't need to take off the intake to do anything so far.
Hey y'all. Thinking these symptoms need their own thread now. The car is new to me with 90k miles and I've only driven it a handful of times. Test drive felt okay and getting it home I felt a hesitation or misfire. I immediately put new air filters, NGK coils, Denso plugs and a pcv valve in. Took it on the freeway after and still felt some rough spots.

The check engine light came on alongside the traction light a week ago. I replaced the camshaft sensor #1/A with mopar after having a napa part act worse. Crankshaft sensor replaced because the mopar parts guy recommended it. The electric throttle light came on after putting these parts in. The idle speed also changed to be very high at first. The pedal suddenly felt unresponsive. I didn't test drive it after that. Also while I was under the car for the crankshaft sensor there were loose bolts on the engine oil pan and a small leak! I tightened them up a bit.

I put in a aftermarket throttle body a few days ago. The old throttle body had a minor amount of oils. The first few short outings felt great. All the lights were gone and it felt responsive. I took it to the freeway yesterday and the symptoms came back once I attempted to pass someone. p0340, traction lights, throttle light, hesitation, and now it felt unresponsive even at low speeds. It was unresponsive even when placed in the shift selection mode.

Are there any ground points under the engine related to the throttle or camshaft sensors? Is there a reset or relearn procedure for the new throttle?

I also want to test camshaft sensor B and load test the battery. The ground points that I could see look clean. I disconnected the battery this morning hoping the computer resets things and will make an excuse to take it out after work.
Hey I know it's been a bit what throttle body did u buy vender wise
 
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