HOW TO: Coilover Install

Discussion in 'Custom Chassis - Suspension - Wheels and Tires' started by 4cefed, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. 4cefed

    4cefed Member

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    Finally got my coil overs installed and set to the height that I want, and as promised here it my HOW TO do it, now I have not taken photos of all the steps but I will try and explain in as much detail where I can :)

    Please be aware this is not the only way and everyone else will do it differently, please use this as a guide and not gospel on how it should be done.

    Before doing this I watched a heap of Youtube videos and also looked at the suspension and how it all went together and worked.

    In hindsight I should have taken measurements from ground to top of guard so I could record how much I dropped it, but alas I didn't.

    TOOLS REQUIRED:
    Socket Set – 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and 22mm
    Spanners
    Hammer
    Jack Stands
    Breaker Bar
    Torque Wrench

    DISCLAIMER : I don't take any responsibility for any damage / loss that my occur from performing this modification.

    REAR:
    1. Start by raising the car up off the ground and getting jack stands under the car, NEVER work on a car with just a car jack supporting it.

    2. Remove the wheel and place them under the sill in case the car falls / slipped off the stand.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-15-29.png

    3. As I was also installing adjustable rear camber arms, I removed the stock control arms (two bolts) TIP Be aware when ordering that pre facelift (2008-2011) and facelift models (2011-2014) are slightly different and not interchangeable.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-16-35.png

    4. Used the stock control arms to set the Adjustable arms to the stock length, use the bolts to ensure they are the same length. NOTE do not install them quiet yet.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-20-23.png

    5. Loosen off the top bolts on the strut but don't remove completely (leave 1-2 threads) ill explain why later. TIP access the inside bolt thru the back seat.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-21-27.png

    6. Using the breaker bar, loosen the bolt on the lower control arm and remove the nut completely, TIP:You will need the assistance of a hammer to help knock the bolt thru.
    Using your hammer and a screwdriver remove the lower bolt.

    7. Get a friend to assist here, get one to hold the brake / caliper assembly and the other jump in the boot and remove the final thread on the top of the control arm while you hold the strut assembly. NOTE & TIP: I found it easiest to jack up the control arm to have the suspension under slight tension when undoing the bolt and removing it.

    At this point you have the suspension all removed and ready to re-install your suspension,

    8. Set the ride height of the coil over, out of the box the ride height was about the same as stock / slightly higher. NOTE: Initially we set the coil over with 16 threads between the lower locking nut and the bottom of the top two (this dropped it about 1"), I now have the car set with 3 threads between them and its got the wheel just in line with the guard.

    TIP: I use counting the threads as a easier way of working out if both coils are the same height instead of using the measuring that can be a bit hard to do IMHO.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-29-10.png

    9. If your coil overs have adjustable dampener settings set these to where you want them now, I have set mine to 15 in the rear.

    10. At this point feed the extender for dampener adjustment thru the hole right at the top of the inner guard (the hole is covered by the trim on the parcel shelf inside the boot), The bottom connector is easily removed to make feeding of the extender easy.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-30-55.png

    11. Attach the top of the extender to the top of the coil-over (this is where you need your mate)

    12. Feed the new strut up into the guard and the final mounting position and get your buddy to do the bolts up finger tight, make sure that the extender work fine and isn't kinked.

    13. Use a piece of wood or crow bar to pry down the Rear Lower trailing arm to get the bottom of the coil-over into where you need to mount it, and push the bolt in
    upload_2017-12-31_17-31-48.png

    14. Tighten up the top bolts and the bottom bolt and Torque down as per factory specifications.

    15. You can now install the rear camber arms. NOTE: adjust to desired length before installing as once installed cannot adjust easily.

    16: Double check all the bolts and everything is tight, reinstall the wheel and repeat on other side.

    17. Once both sides done, lower car down and check the ride height and make sure the car is equal drop side to side (mine with the same threads between locking nuts were 1cm difference side to side)

    By this point we had been at it for about 4 hours ...... We made a few mistakes and had to redo one whole side and redo the dampener extenders.

    FRONT:
    1. Once Again start by raising the car up off the ground and getting jack stands under the car, NEVER work on a car with just a car jack supporting it, once the wheel where removed I placed them under the sill in case the car fell / slipped off the stand so I wasn't crushed and the car would be easy to lift back up again.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-34-5.png

    2. Remove the bolts supporting the brake lines and the speed sensor (located behind the wheel hub) and move out of the way of danger. NOTE: some people will remove the brakes and hang them out of the way, I didn't and will explain how I done it to avoid damaging them.
    upload_2017-12-31_17-35-50.png

    NOTE: By this point it was starting to get dark and we just wanted to be finished so photos were more or less put on the back burner.

    3. Undo the bolt for the sway bar and swing it out of the way.

    4. Undo the bolts for the strut at the top leaving a few mm of thread so the strut isn't able to fall free.

    5. Get your breaker bar and 22mm socket and brake the bolts off the wheel hub, loosen and use your hammer to knock them out completely so the hub and strut are separate. TIP get your friend to hold the brakes so they don't just drop, also use your Trolley Jack to lift the brake and hub up.

    6. Completely undo the 3 bolts holding the strut and let the strut assembly be freed from the car NOTE: this is where you need a 3rd friend to assist / some creative positioning to ensure the strut doesn't just fall down and take brake lines / anything else out with it.

    Now the fun parts begin.

    7. Set the desired ride height (we went with 22 threads initially / car now has 16 threads)

    8. Feed the Coil over thru and up into the guard and tighten the top bolts finger tight.

    9. Guide the spindle up and into the lower mounting point and feed the bolts in (use your hammer to get them thru) use your Trolley Jack to assist with raising the brake / spindle up.

    10. Tighten up the Top bolts of the strut in the engine bay.

    11. If your coil overs have adjustable dampener settings set these to where you want them now, I have set mine to 15 in the front initially (now its at 13 whats nicer on the back)

    12. Reconnect the sway bar and tighten the bolt finger tight. TIP: Use the Trolley Jack to help push up the sway bar end to be able to reconnect the bolt.

    13. Torque down all the bolts as per factory specifications.

    14. Feed back the speed sensor

    15. Tighten up the brackets for speed sensor wire and brake lines

    16. Double check all the bolts and everything is tight, reinstall the wheel and repeat on other side.

    17. Once both sides done, lower car down and check the ride height and make sure the car is equal drop side to side (mine with the same threads between locking nuts were .5cm difference side to side)

    18. Raise up car and adjust coil-overs till you are equal drop side to side.

    Now take the car for a test drive listening out for any noises or things that don't feel right, recheck the wheel lug bolts to ensure they are all tight and not loose.

    Hope this helps, any Questions just ask ;)

    Ben :)
     
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  2. 4cefed

    4cefed Member

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    Went back last night after a week of driving and reset the coils and reset side to side / front to back height.

    Final Setting is 16 threads on the front and 3 threads on the Rear, Dampeners are set 13 in the front and 15 in the rear.

    This gives the car a slight rake and the wheels just tucking with no rubbing :)

    upload_2017-12-31_17-48-26.png

    Ben :)
     
  3. Dodge2.4

    Dodge2.4 New Member

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    Looks awesome!! Thank you for posting instructions as well. Will come in very handy
     
  4. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    EXCELLENT THREAD! Best write up of a mod in a long time! Now either go out and look at and enjoy your ride or go out and hit the roads with it! :):)
     
  5. 4cefed

    4cefed Member

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    Been looking at it heaps, waiting on the alignment then will hit some windy roads and see how much it's improved

    Ben :)
     
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  6. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Ah yes, must not forget the FINAL step of 4 wheel alignment!:D
     
  7. Intrepid

    Intrepid Active Member MOTM Winner!

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    Thanks for the great write-up....looks awesome.
     
  8. 4cefed

    4cefed Member

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    Very true, done a home alignment but will still be off with toe and few other bits! But close enough for next week to let it all settle :D

    Ben :)
     
  9. Dodge2.4

    Dodge2.4 New Member

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    Best way to test it
    lo
    best way to test it lol
     
  10. Revengeoravenge

    Revengeoravenge Member

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    Wow much better then my HR springs deff saving up now lol
     
  11. 4cefed

    4cefed Member

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    UPDATE:
    So I have now had the Coils in for just over a month and everything has settled, the Clunking / Banging noise I had in the rear has been fixed (make sure you centre the adjustable control arms otherwise they will BANG), also during install once everything is tightened at the bottom, lower the car down on wheels and roll the car back and forth (1-2meters each way) to let the coils and strut assembly set itself nicely.

    but the reason for my post! I have a wonderful creaking noise :mad: that happens in the LHR when ever essentially any slight flex in the body / and the wheels are not perfectly flat....Plan tonight to get under the car and re-grease all the bushes / check the sway bar end links! From Everything I have been reading i am thinking its the end links have gone bad so will disconnect while under and take it for a drive to see if the noise is still ther.

    Might Even wind the coils down ever so slightly....been hankering to get some camber happening already have to crab crawl out of the drive way......I wounder if council will let me put a ramp from the road to the driveway so I don't scrape :rolleyes:

    Ben :)
     
  12. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    Contact member Finn Avenger, He was chasing a similar sound for quite some time, and just recently finally found and fixed the source.
     
  13. 5rebel9

    5rebel9 Active Member Site Supporter Level 1 Military

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    I looked up my pm's with him, found that it was a trailing arm bushing,probably body mount side as it was under some type of cover plate. his "squeak" is now gone after replacing it.
    Had to give this info this way as it was too late to edit the previous post!
     
  14. Tyrone23

    Tyrone23 Member

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    @4cefed GREAT write-up for future Avenger owners wanting to install coil overs!
     
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