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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looked around about this for while, I get that our pcms would likely still pop a code if we just removed the hardware.
But my area doesn't care about emissions.
(unless your a V8 with no exhaust)
And my evap canister is long gone, even the mounting bolts on the frame of the car for the canister are gone. So I have no way to mount it even if I wanted to fix my evap stuff.
I'm tired of seeing an unneeded cel light and "gascap" message lol anybody have any ideas? Or successfully deleted their evap equipment?
For reference mine is a 2012 sxt 2.4l
 

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I don't believe so, if it was relatively easy a lot of people would be doing it. It's an integral part of the system to help it run efficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ahhh that sucks. There has to be some way to bypass or delete it, just nobody has probably bothered to try 🤷

When I bought the car the mount bolts for the canister were already gone. It was held up by hanger wire.
One day that wire let go and the canister came down on the road, shattered it. And still drove a a few minutes with it like that, just haven't bothered to do anything other than remove that stuff and tie up the hoses.
Would be nice to be able to delete or bypass as the evap stuff are the only codes my car has. But I guess we can only do so much. I'll take a look around google and see how people have bypassed/deleted on other vehicles. Maybe I can find a way to do it that will at least get rid of that annoying "gascap" message.
 

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Why not just go to an auto wreckers and get all the necessary parts to make it functionable. It wouldn't cost much and your brain won't go crazy trying to do a work around that nobody has done. who knows what gremlins will disappear and other things that could improve by fixing what is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well for a few reasons.
Minimum wage being one, very much on a budget.
Ive had little to no evap ever since I got the car. It's prettymuch always had one evap issue or another.
So I would prettymuch have to replace the entire system, canister, purge valve, lines ect. Wreckers around here I would probably be looking at around $500 at least. Which just isn't worth it personally.

Keeping in mind that the bolts to mount the canister are still gone, so I would either have to figure out a way to strap it in place again, which would probably fail again eventually. Or pay someone to weld new bolts in place, so more money.

The time to fix it all which more often than not I just don't have. I'm on the go constantly, just how my life works.

And sure it helps the environment, and saves you a little gas. But considering how much gas it saves, the gas saved vs cost to fix isn't worth it.

Car has never had a problem running how it is without functioning evap. So I figure logically removing it would reduce weight (albeit not much) but that saved weight would likely save me more gas over 2 years than the system itself would.

But to sum up, no time, don't have the money to blow on a system that it's never really had to begin with, a little bit of laziness. And to finish off the car has 250,000kms on it, I don't want to put too much money into it if it's not needed. So a bypass/delete seems like the best option to me.
But if it can't be done I'll just remove the unnesesary lines, route purge lines to the rear and away from the engine, and deal with the cel light and gascap message I guess 🤷
 

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I think the pump and most of the lines all come together for less than $75 at AutoZone. But anyways, what exactly is the alternative?

Did you just plug everything completely after removing the pump/lines/bracket?

Did you at least install a little breather filter with a check valve?

The gas cap light could be because of pressure building up if you didn't add a check valve/vent/breather to the line after removing everything so thoroughly, and just blocked it instead.

The gas cap light could be because the gas tank is losing pressure if you did not install some sort of check valve or plug, and just left the lines/ports open... this would probably also have a fuel smell associated with it as gas would be evaporating to atmosphere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Being honest? I haven't done anything with it yet.
My local auto parts stores sell the canister for 200$
Lines are 75$
White sensor piece is 57$
And although I don't trust the opinions of parts sellers unless I know them well, they also told me the purge valve in the engine bay would likely have to be replaced too which comes in at 125$
So cheaper than what I was expecting based on prices from a year or two ago.
But I had other things to worry about, electrical issues, had to replace temp sensor, cam and crank sensors, front axles, control arms, rear lateral link(which I highly recommend doing if nobody has, huge improvement). Just one thing after another.
Plus I have 16" Momo rims from the 90s I picked up for a good deal that I'm restoring. So havnt had the time with all that and work/life.
Last thing I need to do are control arms, stabalizer bushings front and rear, inner tie rods and front control arms. Then bring it for an alignment, then I can see about the evap stuff.
Still running perfectly fine as it is, I even had buddy pull fuel psi at his garage, and he borrowed the tool to test. Fuel pressure is well within range, so as long as it doesn't harm anything I don't mind leaving it
 

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Well, if the worst thing is the gas cap light... could always just unplug the bulb behind the dashboard. Or dig around until you find the voltage/resistance curve of the sensor, and trick the computer into thinking everything is copacetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry should have specified, it's the "gascap" message on the ODO that comes up, I still like knowing what I'm at kms wise but digital odo's suck lol
I saw a write up on another forum, I don't remember specifics I'll have to find it again.
But more or less buddy took the tubing from the tank, ran it straight to the purge solenoid, removed all the extra piping. Then ran from the purge solenoid to the intake so that the fumes would still vent into the intake. And then did something with the purge solenoid sensor wires to trick the computer. If I'm remembering correctly 🤷
 

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If I was going to get rid of it, I would put a breather filter with a check valve back by the gas tank... somewhere it won't get wet, and won't be at a stupid angle when cornering... then I would remove the hoses all the way up to the intake. I would remove the pump and everything that connects to it.

Then I would find whatever resistance the computer needs to "see" in order for that code to go away, and order whatever is necessary to "show" it that resistance. Pretty sure this is the same trick used when you delete your cats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Haven't deleted my cat but you are correct that is the general process.
As for what you explained, yes I think said post may have mentioned something about a resistor inline. But I can't remember, I'll search for it tommorow and post it here for a read through if work is a bit quieter.
Oh and I gained another project lol picked up a working stock subwoofer out of a 2015 jeep tj.
It's a quad coil so gotta wire that up for 4ohm then figure out how to mount it in my spare tire hole. This weekend is gonna be a shit show. But! While I'm doing control arms I'll get under and see what I'm working with for evap, as of right now all stock tubing and tubing exits right before the valence exhaust cutout
 
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