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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!
I've had my 08 Avenger SXT since March. At first it ran great, but lately I've been having some problems. It loses power between 3500-3700 RPMS. I'm not sure if I need a tune up, or if it could be something else. I'm not too "car- savvy", but I am familiar with a good bit. Any ideas on what it could be?
 

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Welcome to the Forum! A little info about your 08 like which motor and how many miles on it would help greatly for good responses to your question, Any lights (CEL,ETC) coming on? and they do get a little "boggy" in high gear and that would be about the RPM you describe if you have the 4 cyl. 2.4 motor. Drop by the Newbie check in page and Introduce yourself to the whole forum family.
 

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Welcome to the Forum! A little info about your 08 like which motor and how many miles on it would help greatly for good responses to your question, Any lights (CEL,ETC) coming on? and they do get a little "boggy" in high gear and that would be about the RPM you describe if you have the 4 cyl. 2.4 motor. Drop by the Newbie check in page and Introduce yourself to the whole forum family.
Hey Rebel!
It's a 4 cyl 2.4 motor. There's a little over 120k miles on it. The check engine light is on, unfortunately I can't remember which exact code it is. I was told that it could possibly be caused by one of the flaps on the intake sticking, but the mechanic wasn't sure without tearing the motor out and looking at the tranny. It accelerates great, but as soon as I hit that 3500-3700 RPM, it down shifts and loses power. This happens more going up hill. It had power when I first bought it, but it seems like as time has gone on it's running outta juice. I can have the gas to the floor and won't pick up speed until I get level ground.
P.S. I'll drop a post in the newbie section soon!
 

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Thanks for the updated info.! the 2.4 motor has a couple of "quirks" that need to be kept aware of. One of them being the air control valve assy in the intake manifold as you describe. The throttle body is also subject to the same thing that helps "goof up" the former part, oil residues from the PCV system building up in the intake manifold, and should be checked and cleaned periodically. A trip to a parts store like autozone would not hurt in getting a free scan of the computer done to get any and all codes that are affecting the performance of your ride. If you can post those, it would be very helpful in helping you get to the "bottom" of your concerns. Make sure the motor is running right FIRST before going into the transmission!
 

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Speaking of the motor, that was another concern that I've had lately. It runs fine, but the initial start up of the car bothers me. It use to start up quieter, however when the loss of power issue started, it seems like the motor is sounding "louder". Even though it is idiling around 500rpms, it sounds like it's idiling much higher than that. Could this just be as simple as changing the spark plugs or a tune up? Or could this be something hand in hand with the loss of power?
 

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Need to get the trouble codes from the computer FIRST, any things that feed computer info will affect how well the engine operates. more than replacing an air filter and spark plugs. Also the intake air control valves will cause the same lack of power in the RPM range you describe,and if malfunctioning can also give the start up concerns described also. Best to get that item checked out first and go from there.
 

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We definitely need to know the stored trouble codes if your Check Engine Light is on.

Have you tried the "key dance?" From the off position, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position (without cranking/starting the engine), then off, on, off and on again, and leave it in the on position. If there are any codes stored, they will be displayed in the EVIC screen. Record each of the codes and report back here so we can help. Or like Rebel said, just go to AutoZone and have them read the codes for you.
 

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We definitely need to know the stored trouble codes if your Check Engine Light is on.

Have you tried the "key dance?" From the off position, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position (without cranking/starting the engine), then off, on, off and on again, and leave it in the on position. If there are any codes stored, they will be displayed in the EVIC screen. Record each of the codes and report back here so we can help. Or like Rebel said, just go to AutoZone and have them read the codes for you.
I will do this as soon as I can and will report back to ya tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far guys :)
 

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The codes will definitely help...
But being at the mileage your stating, first of all have you had the plugs replaced? This may not be a direct issue, but typically after 50K the spark plug gap start to become larger and at 100K like the manufacturer recommends, replacing the plugs at this point they are pretty much shot. I'd replace the plugs to begin with, even though this may not have any issues with the problems your having, at 50K the plugs probably have over a 0.50 gap on them and they could be misfiring.
If you can afford it, I would replace the plugs with NGK Iridium's. They will come pregapped and all you need to do is replace the plugs and throw a little Dielectric grease on the end of the plug wire when reinstalling. This will rule out the spark plugs out of the equation and you will also have performed half of the factory tune up with about 30min of your time.
 

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Just a clarification on my previous post: turn the key to the accessory position...not off. So, within a few seconds, turn the key on-acc-on-acc-on...then read any codes in the odometer screen. If there are no codes, you will see "-------" followed by "done".
 

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Just a clarification on my previous post: turn the key to the accessory position...not off. So, within a few seconds, turn the key on-acc-on-acc-on...then read any codes in the odometer screen. If there are no codes, you will see "-------" followed by "done".
That is exactly what happened when we did that, however the check engine light is still on. What would cause this? And yes spark plugs are on my to do list asap :)
 

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Hi!
So it didn't give you any codes? Remember the "key dance" will not reset any stored codes it just shows them to you so even after that you still get the CEL. Try to use scanner or go to Autozone to get them checked and see if that works for you.

One thing i can point out with that much mileage on the clock i sure do recommend to clean the throttle body. My 2.4 has done around 93k miles and just cleaned the throttle body last week and it was quite dirty. After cleaning it now it runs and idles a lot smoother.
 

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Are you sure it is the check engine light or the Electronic Throttle Control light(ETC) that is on? 99.999% of the time if CEL is on there are codes stored to tell what component is not working correctly. It does not fix the problem, but tell one where to look for the problem to be fixed.
 

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Hey everyone! Sorry for the delay in my reply, work has had me on overload the past 2 weeks and I haven't been able to answer.

From what I have found, the intake manifold flutter system is clogged. I was told that this could be as simple as getting a spray of some sort for it to have it cleaned, or it could be more complicated and would need to be removed to be clean.

Has anyone else had this problem before? Or does anyone know what actual solution needs to be done to fix this issue. I still don't have the specific code for it, I did ask the mechanic but he didn't know which one it was at the time and ended up never giving it to me. I guess that's the issue with being a female who is into her car, no one there wanted to give me specific information because i "wouldn't fully understand" from what they said.

Suggestions?
 

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I would give it a seafoam treatment or similar and see if that works. If not then remove it and give it good clean.
I haven't had this problem but that's my suggestion.
 

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And you can learn the trick of doing the "key Dance" and your avenger will go into self diagnosis mode and give you the codes stored in the computer. It is EASY to do. and I agree with intrepid's suggestion. And if that does not work, the intake manifold will have to be taken off and cleaned out to fix your concern. It is not a hard task just takes a little patience.
 
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