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Discussion Starter #1
I have a question regarding my 2008 Dodge Avenger FWD 2.7 V6

I have gone the past 4 years with the P0420 code. I had it officially diagnosed 4 years ago and was told that I needed a new Catalytic Converter. I used sparkplug anti-foulers and was able to eliminate the code for a few years. Now that I live in New York I need annual inspections and the code won't stay off. I bit the bullet and went forward to get a new factory front exhaust manifold assembly installed. New gasket and sensors as well. The code stayed off for 1 day and then popped back up. I reset the battery again and I made it 6 miles before P0420 comes on again. Does anyone have any idea what else could be causing this issue? I have no personal garage access now, but I will check the plugs and intake manifold when I do have access in a couple of weeks.

My second question is that my car takes at least 20 minutes for the engine to warm up in the winter. Up until last week I had no heat on the passengers side, and lukewarm heat on the drivers side (you know, that stupid issue). There was equal airflow, one was just cold. I do not have dual climate control either. I was told by numerous sources that it was the heater core. I had the blender door checked, dash taken apart and the heater core inspected and the thermostat changed. The heater core was flush, and was not changed when the dash was apart because it looked great on the outside, was hot with hot water flowing through it. I gained a little more heat after the thermostat was changed but that's it. Is it true Dodge will help with this or will fix this?

Thanks in advance!
 

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What area of NY? and please update your profile then. Check EGR and piping, all it takes is a small pinhole leak to set that code. It is NOT how the outside of the heater core that is the problem, it is the passages INSIDE the core that plug up. And by now I doubt that Dodge will do this under warranty.
 

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What area of NY? and please update your profile then. Check EGR and piping, all it takes is a small pinhole leak to set that code. It is NOT how the outside of the heater core that is the problem, it is the passages INSIDE the core that plug up. And by now I doubt that Dodge will do this under warranty.
Syracuse! And I trust the mechanics opinion that the flow is good and working but I understand what you're saying. I never thought to check the EGR though
 

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Ah, You get the winter LES like we get off lake Erie! My son almost set his college choice to there! Did you try recalibrating the HVAC controls? A little known trick I found for my much simpler digital temp control for my 04 town and country. I found it by Google search, maybe you could try that for your Avenger.
 

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Ah, You get the winter LES like we get off lake Erie! My son almost set his college choice to there! Did you try recalibrating the HVAC controls? A little known trick I found for my much simpler digital temp control for my 04 town and country. I found it by Google search, maybe you could try that for your Avenger.
We had LES from Lake MIchigan and now we have it again! I'll have to look into that too.
 

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BUMP...It has been a while, and I know there has been the busy holiday, but have you made any progress with your 2 concerns?
 

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Right now I'm back in Michigan with family, I took the intake manifold off and the checked the gaskets, and the tb and all connections and hoses. I removed the upper portion of the EGR valve as well and reseated it. It could use a new gasket but none were available locally when I took it apart. I replaced all of the plugs, which were at 100k miles, but still looked great. I reoiled my intake filter too. After resetting the battery I made it 175 miles without the engine code coming back on, which would have allowed me to pass emissions in NY, but being in Michigan it's useless, since the code just popped back on.

The heat is still funky, while my car did not have the engine light on I was able to remote start it, and even after 30 minutes of it running, the coolant still wasn't reaching temp. There is absolutely no heat going to the floor. A little heat going to the upper vents, and enough going to the defrosters to keep the window clear.

Next steps may included going to the shop and describing my issues and current fixes that I have attempted and have them fully troubleshoot it again. I can't go without heat when it's going to be a low of -10 when I head to work this week.

BUMP...It has been a while, and I know there has been the busy holiday, but have you made any progress with your 2 concerns?
 

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You could try running some CataClean through you tank. If that doesn't work, check the downstream O2 sensor and wiring for damage. You can check the cat with an IR gun too. Read inlet pipe compared to outlet pipe with engine idling at about 2500 rpm. Look for outlet to be at least 100F hotter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would say if it's 30 degrees or more outside, then my heat will be tolerably warm.

Apparently, I've been misled and haven't utilized the google machine well enough to know, but it's my rear catalytic and not the front one. Which means, I've been chasing the wrong cat :/

Time to find a friend with a lift, check out the sensor and maybe throw a anti-fouler on it.
 

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I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with 3.6L and single heater control. Cold air coming from the passenger vent and getting warmer as you move toward the drivers side, including defrost and feet. Of course I tried to flush the heater core but the problem for me is the heater core is mounted at about a 30 degree angle with the hoses on the bottom. This allows any air in the system to accumulate at the top, effectively reducing the usable size of the heater core and present symptoms similar to a plugged core. The way I solved the problem was to jack the drivers side as high as possible and removed the upper (as they come through the firewall) heater hose and inserted a funnel. Then I removed the air bleed screw on the thermostat housing. I refilled the coolant system through the heater hose/funnel. Once coolant began to flow from the air bleed without air I replaced that screw. I started the engine and continued to fill until coolant flowed from the heater pipe where I had removed the hose and then capped the pipe with my thumb. I continued to attempt to fill the heater hose, holding it as high as possible. When I could not fill any more, I reinstalled the hose as quickly as possible to allow as little air as possible from reentering the system. I filled the coolant reservoir, and continued to get the engine to normal operating temperature and ensured the reservoir was appropriately filled. Keep in mind that any time the system is opened or leaking, the symptoms will return until as much of the air is removed from the system again. This is why it works when anything in the cooling system is replaced. It reoccurs quickly for some because not all the air was removed or it has a leak.
 
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