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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so i have a 2014 avenger blacktop edition with the 3.6L in it. The car only has 61000 miles on it. Yesterday i did an oil change on it, it had been about 6k miles since my last oil change which is longer then i would have likes but i have been real busy lately. Immediately after finishing the oil change the oil pressure light came on. I put 5w20 oil in it. Oil level is fine. Right in the middle of the “safe” zone, checked it cold and hot. Weird thing is that the light will come on only when vehicle is in gear and my foots on the brake... the second i let off the brake the light turns off. A couple people have told me that 3.6 is a junk motor and its probably on its way to the junkyard. Is it possible that maybe the oil filter is faulty? Any ideas on this would be great. Going to throw some heavier oil in it tomorrow and see if the light goes off... really having a hard time believing that my motor is shot at 60k miles...
 

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Don't go to heavier oil. Have you had the Check engine light been coming on? GET IT SCANNED by an autoZone or the like and find out what code(s) it may have. There has been troubles with the Oil Pump assembly on these motors and your concern may prove a "relatively" easy repair. You could try checking the oil filter and cover unit, as there is a "relief valve" unit in the cap that is prone to break and cause troubles. Good luck!
 

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If im not mistaken the check engine light was on prior to the oil change for a p0456 code, might not be the right code but it was an evap code
 

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Also had a P0522 code which has to do with oil pressure sensor, and one other code came up but my brain is mush, had to do with a valve shutting off from low oil pressure, they were generic codes for oil pressure and everything i looked up pointed to either no oil in the engine..open circuit for sensor and open circuit in harness. The two mechanics i talked to are convinced that its the bearings are all worn out due to a delayed oil change....
 

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There are 2 electrical solenoids in the oil pump assembly inside the motor, THEY are what has more commonly been failing and best done with a complete oil pump assy. replacement. As for shot main/rod bearings, one would NOT know unless the oil pan is dropped to check. Does the motor knock when running?
There is some discussion of the 3.6 oil press code troubles that can b looked up here on the forum pages(I'm no good at doing links to give you some of them here). AND I don't have "first hand knowledge" as my OLDER coupe is a 2.5 Mitsubishi motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The engine runs great, no knocking no noise at all. Not even on cold start. Just puzzling to me that it came on right after the oil change, would that oil filter relief valve cause oil pressure codes?
 

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That I can not tell you, as I posted before. Was just relaying "tidbits" of info found here on the Forum pages by other members (some no longer active and some still checking in) from oil system troubles they've encountered and what needed to be done to correct them(again some didn't follow up).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just scanned the car and it gave me the P06DD code, after doing a bunch of research, some common issues are either the wrong filter, which im hoping is the case because its an aftermarket filter and not a mopar filter, along with that relief valve having broken and lodged in the filter causing low oil pressure at idle, i shall investigate this further tomorrow. Really hope its as easy as putting a mopar filter in there lol.
 

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I was leaning towards the wrong filter. They changed the filter in 2014 for the 3.6.
 

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Just recently had to change the oil bypass valve on my 2013, as well as the oil pressure switch. The spring inside the bypass valve had actually come out when I did an oil change, and a little piece of plastic had broken off inside the filter housing. I was lucky that it didn't cause any damage. So take a look inside the filter housing. Should be a spring attached to a little plastic "knob", and this all sits inside a spiral piece of plastic. If just the spring or the "knob" is missing/broken, it's about a $8 piece (bypass valve) you can replace. If the spiral piece is broken, you have to, unfortunately, replace the entire filter housing/oil cooler assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay so i have an update, opened up the filter and turns out the “mechanic” put the 2012 filter in my 2014 filter housing.... cleared the codes with the scanner... going to drive it around today to see if the oil pressure codes come back... glad i paid 40$ to get bent over at the shop... thats what i get for not doing it myself
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well after about 100 miles of driving all over today, no oil pressure light!! Glad it was not the oil pump or oil sending unit! Now to figure out if the wrong filter being in there could have caused ant issues with the engine
 

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The 3.6 is actually a very strong engine and don't let anyone tell you it is "Junk." Those that do would pay you very little and drive away laughing at you. It has been used from 2011 to todays 2020's in everything from the Avengers, Grand Caravans to Ram 1500's. Sure some have had minor issues but overall it has been a great engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah my avenger is still running like it did off the showroom floor, now to order a gascap and see if that solves my P0456 issues
 

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Just my 2 cents, if the gas cap doesn't make the code go away, may I suggest going to a mechanic with a smoke machine. The EVAP system will be filled with smoke and then wherever you see smoke coming out from any of the EVAP system is where the leak is. I used a smoke machine a lot when I was running a mechanic shop. Some people don't want to pay the extra money for the smoke test, but it sure beats swapping out parts until you get lucky and replace the correct one. Again, just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah thats going to be plan B, maybe ill get lucky with the gas cap, however if i dont get lucky a second time ill be going to dodge and let them diagnose it. I work 7 days a week so i dont have time to swap parts and hoses until i get it right!
 

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Rather than a stealership, find a well liked local mechanic shop and have them check it out. With a small bit of research they can be found and are more trust worthy than the dealer and come at a lower price.
 
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