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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all first off sorry if there is an existing thread, search didn't bring anything up.

2nd I know this is a common issue with 3.6pentastar kinda confused no results on search hahah
Car is 2011 LUX 3.6
The code if you don't know is dual stage pump stuck on low, 130k miles, no ticking at all very strong motor and trans, question has anyone ever dealt with this I did an oil change and decided to do a full synthetic swap filter everything after driving 30 min all was good , well me and my wife took off for vacation the next day drove 2 hours and boom orange light of death pull over scan it P066D code so I'm thinking oil filter was wrong pull the filter out just to look oil was runny as hell like pouring coffee out of the pot, so I put filter back in clear codes we take off code never came back untill coming home after driving 6-7 hours straight stopping once to eat. Next day boom light back so I change oil pressure switch, no change, change to a WIX fikter no change, hooked it up to computer oil psi at idle is 20 psi idle in gear is 21.4psi driving 45psi pedal to the floor 92psi which is normal . Now I did notice that I grabbed the new DEXOS synthetic oil and I know it's thinner then normal oil yall think that could be the cause or what's your opions?
 

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Sounds logical that it could be an issue with the oil since the problem started after your oil change. The Dexos synthetic was specifically designed for 2011+ GM vehicles.
 

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Don't know if this would come into "play" or not...But isn't there 2 different size cartridge oil filters for the 3.6 motors? Is it possible to put the shorter one into the taller housing, thus causing a problem???
But I do agree with member Intrepid about the oil type used!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well this is turning into more of a informative post for future viewers,

Steps taken so far,

Replaced oil filter- no change

Replaced engine oil pressure switch (sending unit) no change

Replaced bypass valve under oi filter no change

Switched back to 5w-30 non synthetic non dexos
No change

Going through the wiring harness today only two connections under the hood to look at and test, if these pass ohm readings and voltage readings and checking the oil college for leaks I will be replacing the oil pump my guess is the oil pressure solenoid has gone bad which is built into the pump so replacing the pump will be the smart idea instead of replacing the solenoid will keep updating this post for future viewers


Also I just noticed my fat fingers typed P066F it's supposed to be P066D code hooray for sausage fingers
 

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I've read on here of at least 2 members with the 3.6 having oil pump failures.Seems to me there was a mention of a TSB about it, but can;t recall WHERE on the Forum I saw that. Too bad these things "crop up" right after doing something and it not fixing itself with a "redo" of work done!
 

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Did some searching of other sites about this. My results point to a failure in the oil filter housing cap or O RING seal for the filter cartridge. Some also say OIP PUMP. And as for the code number...do you mean P06DD ?
I had to chuckle as I read on some of these other forums, that the much recommended WIX filter is a BAD CHOICE for the 3.6 motor. Seems we have had a few threads recently saying this was the one to run with, not so on a couple other Chrysler Forums from what I read!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did some searching of other sites about this. My results point to a failure in the oil filter housing cap or O RING seal for the filter cartridge. Some also say OIP PUMP. And as for the code number...do you mean P06DD ?
I had to chuckle as I read on some of these other forums, that the much recommended WIX filter is a BAD CHOICE for the 3.6 motor. Seems we have had a few threads recently saying this was the one to run with, not so on a couple other Chrysler Forums from what I read!
Yes P066D, yes I've used WIX never had an issue oring has been changed twice in 1 week, sorry I couldn't figure out how to change the title after posting but yes you are correct it all depends I've ran both mopar and WIX with no issues I used an STP and have had issues I really do think it's the material they use to make the filter that may have a glitch in them. Meaning machined not being consistent
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've read on here of at least 2 members with the 3.6 having oil pump failures.Seems to me there was a mention of a TSB about it, but can;t recall WHERE on the Forum I saw that. Too bad these things "crop up" right after doing something and it not fixing itself with a "redo" of work done!

Yes there is a TSB for it from back in 2011 mine has been done
 

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Last thing I can offer is to check the filter housing for a broken out plastic plate that holds the pressure relief valve spring, some on these other forums spoke of that breaking off and going down into the pressure feed hole(center of the filter cartridge) to the motor causing blockage and low oil pressure, said they had to "fish pieces out".
And the code is P06DD
You may want to start mechanical (visual) inspection in the filter/cooling housing for trouble there and not focusing on computerization end. So you had a computer flash update done, start looking at the mechanical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Last thing I can offer is to check the filter housing for a broken out plastic plate that holds the pressure relief valve spring, some on these other forums spoke of that breaking off and going down into the pressure feed hole(center of the filter cartridge) to the motor causing blockage and low oil pressure, said they had to "fish pieces out".
And the code is P06DD
You may want to start mechanical (visual) inspection in the filter/cooling housing for trouble there and not focusing on computerization end. So you had a computer flash update done, start looking at the mechanical.
You're 100% on I also found another TSB noting issues with the pressure relief valve IE: pressure solenoid, the oil pump swap is my last thing I'm gonna do, I'm getting ready to go out and test the plugs on the pressure switch and solenoid as far as focusing on electronics it's not so much that as just doing a process of elimination I and since they are easy to check my little voice says why not lol. but will def check the bypass screen tube for blockage. Im going to run a scope down the the pick up tube aswell to see if that ORING aroind it is leaking since I'm in there already, thanks for the tip that's why I came here it's nice to bounce things off other people..
 

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Was just on another forum that I use for my T&C minivan, it also covers the Chrysler 200(same car/motor) Subject of code P06DD came up new and with links to other threads of the same code...Result was Replace OIL PUMP, one thread said dealer did the job for 1 grand:eek:! If you're up for it,I'm sure you could DIY and save a bunch!;)

Gotta love the "quirks" found in each of the different motors (2.4 2.7,3.5 and 3.6)found in our rides!:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Was just on another forum that I use for my T&C minivan, it also covers the Chrysler 200(same car/motor) Subject of code P06DD came up new and with links to other threads of the same code...Result was Replace OIL PUMP, one thread said dealer did the job for 1 grand:eek:! If you're up for it,I'm sure you could DIY and save a bunch!;)

Gotta love the "quirks" found in each of the different motors (2.4 2.7,3.5 and 3.6)found in our rides!:rolleyes:

I do all my own work, after testing connections and inspecting oil filter housing/ cooler results are the oil pump pressure solenoid in the pump, I spoke with a couple dodge techs the solenoid is replaceable but the reason the oil pump gets changed is because my you have to pull the pump out to change solenoid and the replacement pump comes with the new solenoid that's why they change the whole pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
With all the labor to get to it...even with my long automotive background,I'd change it out as a whole unit, and be done with it!;)

Yep exactly, 100% agree with you. It's out no reason not to, nice thing is there is alternative way of removing it vrs by the book
 

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Yep exactly, 100% agree with you. It's out no reason not to, nice thing is there is alternative way of removing it vrs by the book
Isn't that almost always the case with many repairs????..LOL;)
I wish there had been a few "shortcuts" to replacing the broken timing belt in my son's Neon...at least it didn't bend any valves(broke at idle), the side mount plate is a real pain to get out!:rolleyes:


EDIT: BTW...did you mean alternative by the use of a small amount of C4 grade explosive?????:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Isn't that almost always the case with many repairs????..LOL;)
I wish there had been a few "shortcuts" to replacing the broken timing belt in my son's Neon...at least it didn't bend any valves(broke at idle), the side mount plate is a real pain to get out!:rolleyes:


EDIT: BTW...did you mean alternative by the use of a small amount of C4 grade explosive?????:D
No c4 hahha and I've done one of those dohc but the oil pump can be removed with only dropping the lower oil pan and a 1/4 drive 10mm low profile swivel socket
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry I havnt updated in a few days the repair process has been put on hold, as we've had some unfortunate weather and had a tree fall on my house once things calm down here will get started with repairs and I'm gonna attempt to make a video of the repair for future people with the same issue
 

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Well,I hope the damage to the house isn't too bad! Yes, there's been some pretty wild weather around most of the country lately...stay safe!
 
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