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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been stuck in limp mode on and off for 2 weeks now, at first a little wiggling of the wiring bundle would set me straight but it got harder to do so I rigged up an extra wire by just exposing a little bit of the dark green/white LR control wire at the solenoid connector and at the PCM connector which worked at first then I figured the wiring moved around and wasnt making good contact so I just cut the original wire and spliced in the new wire at the same spots at the top and bottom of that wire but now I'm back in limp mode. Could the wire have came loose in one of the connectors itself maybe from me handling it to splice the new wire in or am I misunderstanding the original circuitry or what?
 

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Could be a few things, difficult to say what you've done exactly.

P0750 DODGE code possible causes
  • Low transmission fluid level
  • Dirty transmission fluid
  • Faulty Low Reverse solenoid valve
  • Low Reverse solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
  • Low Reverse solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I did already change the fluid and the filter, and I replaced the solenoid pack before realizing that it was a broken or loose wire or connection because it began working after I did a little wiggling of the wiring bundle and connector/pcm area. My only uncertainty is if it began working when I ran a new wire because I had bypassed the break wherever it may be between PCM and solenoid pack or if it began working because I inadvertently moved around a loose connection in the connector while splicing in that new wire
 

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Im having similar issues as well. Same code "p0750." I've been throwing parts at it such as: new solenoid body, new pcm, new transmission fluid/ filter, new input/output sensors. After I replaced the output sensor I had a some luck with getting it to shift through all gears. On my return I notice after going over a speed bump I had a flicker on my odometer and it went back into limp mode, sadly. Now my door chime is acting up and now it says my runner valve has a issues plus the red lightning bolt which indicates throttle body failure but I have no real issues with those components. I suspect a bad ground but can't find a common ground for all different components. 09 dodge avenger 2.4l se automatic transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No kidding, it was a speed bump that had brought the problem back for me after a few days of it being okay as well AND I'm now dealing with the red lightning bolt (which is the ETC indicator, or electronic throttle control) also...awfully coincidental. And apparently now it's also throwing throttle body codes on the OBD scanner. At first I thought maybe from all the jostling of the wiring harness I'd been doing to get it to start working fine again maybe I pulled another wire floor from a connector or something maybe a throttle control wire or something of the sort. But whatever the case I'm having no luck getting it out of limp mode by moving around the wiring harness anymore so now I'm really stumped. And the throttle body was replaced a few months back. This has no doubt got to be an electrical issue I'm just not sure if we're talking a ground issue or maybe one or more wireless pulled loose in a connector or broken in the harness, I'm genuinely baffled at this point.
 

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So I was able to run down to the local pull-a-part and found a intact wiring harness and replaced mine. I did find exposed wires on my old harness so now my limp mode is intermediate. Sometimes I'll start the car and it'll shift all the way through before it suddenly wants to throw a attitude and go into limp mode, other times as soon as I pull out of the drive way it'll be in limp mode. Im gonna give it a shot and replace my throttle body. The etc lightning bolt comes on and off randomly but never throws a code or gives me problems so fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We're definitely dealing with a very similar if not identical culprit, someone on these forums has got to know something. I do feel strongly that whatever we're dealing with is probably a fairly common issue with these avengers or Chrysler and furthermore I'm also growing more and more suspicious of there being some sort of problem with the PCM or TIPM
 

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We're definitely dealing with a very similar if not identical culprit, someone on these forums has got to know something. I do feel strongly that whatever we're dealing with is probably a fairly common issue with these avengers or Chrysler and furthermore I'm also growing more and more suspicious of there being some sort of problem with the PCM or TIPM
I've replaced my pcm. Was not cheap and still no fix. About to replace my tipm this week. Did you only have p0700/ p0750 codes or were there others?
 

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Update: switched out the tipm. No luck with the limp mode. Still stuck with p0700 and p0750 and p02017. The p02017 I've had ever since I've owned the car. That's 5 years now and replaced the runner valve 3 times with no luck but I'm not to worried about it since it's always been there. I'm kinda out of ideas at this point.
 

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Hey all - Any luck with these electrical issues since January? I have a '10 2.4L throwing similar transmission code issues. Was experiencing increasingly more consistent transmission slippage in low gears, high speeds, and idling only to finally have it thrown into Limp after downshifting to a stop. Multiple codes were found - P0700, P0731, P1790, and P0750. Shop figured we would start with the P0750 but after replacing the LR solenoids and servicing the trans only to end up with a P0870 after. Shop thinks its an electrical issue at this point and I'm looking into replacing the PCM but it looks like that did not help one of you. Harness to the PCM looks good, but who knows if there is a faulty wire somewhere..
 

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I have not had any luck yet. I've replaced everything I can touch from the whole wiring harness to the tipm/ fuse box. I even went as far as replacing the whole valve body inside the transmission and Still no luck. I'm left with no other choice other than taking it to a transmission shop and just swallow my pride to get some answers hopefully.
 

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My ecm has been throwing codes for crankshaft position sensor,cam shaft sensor, throttle body sensor, the lightning bolt indicating throttle body , ,starting issues,. I have replaced every part, including the throttle body and am still getting the same codes,going into limp mode and just not resolving. Today it added code 402, 600 and 700.These are new. I live rurally,nearest mechanic is over 50 miles away thereby making it nearly impossible to get it diagnosed and repaired. The only part that has not been replaced is the wire harness that links all this parts to the ecm ( throttle body, position sensors etc) and the ecm itself. Is there a way to test the ecm prior to replacing it? This is a 2008 dodge avenger 2.4 ran great til this started with a stutter at acceleration and a crankshaft position code replaced it, 1 or 2 days later same code etc.literally limp mode and codes have been on that same ,what appears to be,the same wire harness,but certainly the same system, fuel. Any advice you might have I'd appreciate . I don't know if it's totally related or not but had to replace starter in middle of this and it's still dragging, for lack of better explanation, you turn key and it kind of sticks cranking the starter.might be a totally different issue but thought I'd throw it out there in case. Thanks to anyone with an idea replacing the same parts sensors throttle body over and over doesn't seem to be the best plan l.
 

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Sadly there isn't a way to check the pcm without some dealer programs (as far as I know) I replaced my whole wiring harness and also my tipm. But to throw codes all over the place maybe a poor ground? I know with my issues the advice I get is there has to be a poor wire like a short or something but I've yet to find it Sadly.
 

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A new pcm is also like 300 bucks and most of these shops online have plug n play but read the fine print. They will try to get every cent out of you and will charge you extra if you don't send in your old one and if you try to return your new one they'll still keep half of the refund for diagnostic fees. I have my original as well as a new one n I have the same issues with both. Some other threads have had results with swapping the pcm but its expensive gamble. Hopefully I don't scare you away from the possibility of it being a pcm but more of a word of caution.
 

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How old is your battery? A weak battery is notorious for giving random codes. Have the battery load tested to determine condition. These vehicle need to have a constant voltage condition to run right.
 
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