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Discussion Starter #1
On my 2008 Sebring 2.4 with 280k. I have code p2016 and p0335. I replaced the crank sensor, but I am still having some odd issues and I'm lost.
I either get a crank but no start.
Start but won't go over 3000 rpm and won't shift in to overdrive.
Start with full range of rpm but no over drive.
Or I get a start and it runs completely normal.
I just have no idea where to start with this kind of behavior.
It just started doing this about 4 days ago.
Also last night while restarting it to try to get it to run normal. I ended up getting a start with no gas pedal at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is my work car that drives 2 hours a day.
 

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P2016 is for a sticky Intake manifold runner control system problem. MANY threads on the problem and FIX can be found on pages here and on YOUTUBE.
P0335 is indeed a crank sensor code, what brand did you use? Many reports of non MOPAR parts not working "out of the box".
That many miles...have you ever cleaned and/or replaced the throttle body with it's Electric Throttle Control? This is a common issue with the 2.4 motors for throttle problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've only had it since around 245-250k so I'm unsure of the history before that. But it's never gave me a problem. I used a duralast crank sensor. I also forgot to mention that the issues started a day after changing the air filter. But I've checked connections around that area to make sure something didn't wiggle loose. Also with the p2016, every time I research it I get results for p2017 or other codes similar. Can't seem to find any info for just p2016
 

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P2016/2017 are codes for same, just other end of part problem...IMRC trouble either the solenoid OR what it works inside the intake manifold.
I'd try a different brand Crank Sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll order a Mopar crank sensor to see if that helps. Can the p2016 cause the issues I'm having? I haven't really read any symptoms for the p2016/2017 just fixes for them
 

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Actually I can't recall(without looking them up again)that initial starting trouble like you describe is a major symptom. Some low end throttle response is attributed to IMRC troubles.
More probable for lack of throttle overall is from the throttle body(gear driven throttle). Is there also the "lightning bolt symbol" illuminated on the dash when engine is running?

Yes doing the crank sensor again is the least costly and easiest thing to pursue yet for the P0335 code.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I'm going to tear down the throttle body and intake manifold this weekend to see if I can't find a problem and clean it up
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I'm not so concerned about the 2016 code but I got the Mopar crank sensor and no change besides a new code for crank sensor not learned...... Any advice? I really need this thing to keep going for me
 

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On RE reading your initial posting, I realized that I was concentrating on posted codes first to try and help. The crank sensor is a biggie, but other symptoms you post have me thinking that battery and CABLES (+ and =) need to be checked,cleaned along with a good battery load test to correctly determine battery health. Next step would be to unhook the TIPM/fuse panel and disconnect each modular plug and inspect for deteriorated individual wire connections (also apply Di Electric grease.
Many of the SYMPTOMS you have posted should also have been giving codes other than the 2 you posted...this is odd and may not turn out to be a "plug and play" part fix for all troubles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Battery and cables are good. I haven't started looking into the wiring yet. But that is what I've been leaning towards. Just haven't had time to start checking it yet because of work.

BTW I also had a multiple cylinder misfire code (I can't remember the code) but I just figure it throwing that from the hard start because it has no misfire when its running.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I forgot to add something else I've noticed is that after it starts up and doesn't want to go above 3K/go into overdrive, if I let it run for 5 to 10 minutes then shut it off and back on the problem is completely gone until the car has sat for a little while
 

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An "off the wall" question... Did you just get fuel before this started happening? Possible that you got contaminated fuel that's plugging the in tank filter. There's a plate under the rear seat to access the fuel pump assy and be able to look into the tank. Be careful with the lines and wiring, many posts of "oops" by rushing removal and assembling back.

Also recheck the GROUND wires from battery to BODY and to motor. They may be tight but corroded and WILL cause electrical problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I get gas every other day so it's a possibility. Also I never thought to check the ground to the engine. I had an old boss that had a Tahoe go into limp mode over a bad ground strap to the engine. Do you happen to have a diagram of where all the ground points are on it? I know it's a Sebring but I imagine it's the same as the avenger or at least close
 

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Sorry but NO. I have the Mitsu. based Coupe, so don't have Sedan Avenger/200/Sebring books/ schematics.
Check at jumper posts for good clean and tight connections and follow from there to engine/trans point.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
New new new symptom! I'm currently driving home car is running fine the engine light started flashing and now I smell exhaust fumes really bad inside the cabin I'm going about 70 MPH. But the car is running normally. I would suspect a clogged catalytic converter but that wouldn't be intermittent would it? Not misfiring at all and it's climbing hills just fine and I'm not restricted on RPMs
 
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