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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having issues with battery drain, bit have now noticed the rear passenger door sounds like it is locking again after 30 seconds of pressing the lock button on the remote. It also sometimes triggers the car alarm at the same time as making the noise. Has anyone got any ideas what could be wrong.
 

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You could try using a different key and fob to see if that makes a difference. If not, you'll have to look for a parasitic drain on your system. It's a bit of a process but there are videos on Youtube that are helpful. Could be a bad master lock switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not the key or fob, but where I live it's pouring with rain so I am sat in the car thinking lol rather than doing.
 

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I feel your pain:( You could also check and see if there is water collecting in your trunk(boot) lid. You could pull the drain plugs out of the bottom of the lid to see if water comes out. It is a common problem with our cars. This can cause the lock mechanism in the lid to rust and malfunction causing issues with the door lock system. Make sure you have an umbrella handy:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have an umbrella to hand. I have tried the boot drain thing and that dry. It is something to do with the rear door lock I think as that clicks at the same time as the alarm goes off
 

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Maybe pull the inner door panel off and disconnect the lock relay to see if that makes a difference??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tried that and the noise stops but the alarm triggers every time. Going to try the grounding green and white wire trick on driver's door now
 

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Ok, good luck. Many times problems can lead back to the master switch since it is used the most.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a new (used but working) lock coming on Thursday. So will fit that and see what happens. Has anyone got any recommendations for one tools or software? Been looking at appear diagFCA but I'm not sure if it will allow me to connect to the alarm system.
 

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Looks like it does:

Interior Vehicle Theft Alarm ConfigurationAllows you to adjust the Interior Vehicle Theft Alarm Configuration and allows you to enable the VTA theft alarm in vehicles not equipped with an additional intrusion alarm module.

and also the Driver Door Module. Might be something to consider for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks like it does:

Interior Vehicle Theft Alarm ConfigurationAllows you to adjust the Interior Vehicle Theft Alarm Configuration and allows you to enable the VTA theft alarm in vehicles not equipped with an additional intrusion alarm module.

and also the Driver Door Module. Might be something to consider for the price.
I never noticed that bit. I think I will get it. I have obd adapters already so will try it with those and see. I think I will need a newer adapter but there cheap enough.

Will keep post upto date.
 

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That would be great. I've thought about getting it too. Looks interesting.
 

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Sounds great, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I tried diagFCA and I would say if you own a Dodge then buy the software and a gd obd adapter, I can access, control and test every component on my avenger, it is well worth the money. My dongle cost £28 and software cost £37 best money I have spent on any car. I will be posting some screenshots in another thread soon. I was able to diagnose my car fault in less that 5 mins. It turns out the alarm backup battery is faulty so the alarm triggered every time I locked it, it was also the power drain from my battery as it was constantly trying to charge the alarm battery. I have simply turned the alarm off with the software untill I can change the alarm battery.
 

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Sounds amazing, thanks for the update:cool:
 
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Nice.
 
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