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Hi guys, I apologize if this is wrong section, didn't know where to post.

Just in time for winter, all the vents on the passenger side of my 2012 avenger are blowing room temperature air. The driver side vents all blow nice and hot. What could be the issue?

Thanks.
 

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Could be a few things. Our cars have issues with blend door actuators that control air flow in the HVAC system. Let us know more details about your car and maybe someone can figure it out with you.
 

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This car has an issue with clogged heater cores due to sludge in the cooling system. Presents itself as no heat on the passenger side. Have the dealer reference Star Case S1207000008. The dealer will charge about $2200 to do the job as it entails replacing the radiator, heater core, oil cooler, coolant bottle and cap. My dealer had a two year warranty on parts and labor, that's why I had them do it. It also comes back about every 18 months or so.
 

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Hi, I recently encountered this issue as well, including cold air through the center dash vents. Searches here and around the internet mostly point to clogged heater cores being the prominent problem, as well as other A/C components (like the Dorman's door actuators also in Fords and Chevy's too), and the whole coolant system. While heater core flushes or replacement seem to provide some sort of solution, it seems filing a complaint about this safety hazard issue (fogged, frosted windshield and passenger windows that continue to fog/frost), may eventually make Fiat-Chrysler issue a recall/TSB.

You can file the complaint with the National Highway & Transportation Safety Agency here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

For reference, this is the complaint I filed: "Window Defrost and Passenger Heat /Air. While either in motion or while driving, no heated air exits the passenger side of the windshield defroster, nor the passenger window defrost, lower and center console vents. Heated air only exits the driver's side windshield and driver's side dash vents. Problem persists through all cabin air modes, and circulations. This safety issue effects visibility and passenger safety by failing to defrost/defog windows and keeping cabin tempuratures near or below freezing during cold weather (blowing cold air into the cabin)."
 

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I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with 3.6L and single heater control. The problem for me is the heater core is mounted at about a 30 degree angle with the hoses on the bottom. This allows any air in the system to accumulate at the top, effectively reducing the usable size of the heater core and present symptoms similar to a plugged core. The way I solved the problem was to jack the drivers side as high as possible and removed the upper (as they come through the firewall) heater hose and inserted a funnel. Then I removed the air bleed screw on the thermostat housing. I refilled the coolant system through the heater hose/funnel. Once coolant began to flow from the air bleed without air I replaced that screw. I started the engine and continued to fill until coolant flowed from the heater pipe where I had removed the hose and then capped the pipe with my thumb. I continued to attempt to fill the heater hose, holding it as high as possible. When I could not fill any more, I reinstalled the hose as quickly as possible to allow as little air as possible from reentering the system. I filled the coolant reservoir, and continued to get the engine to normal operating temperature and ensured the reservoir was appropriately filled. Keep in mind that any time the system is opened or leaking, the symptoms will return until as much of the air is removed from the system again. This is why it works when anything in the cooling system is replaced. It reoccurs quickly for some because not all the air was removed or it has a leak.
 

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Welcome to the Forumz, Certmech and thanks for sharing that "nugget" of knowledge here! Yes air entrapment in the heating system seems to be a common problem with many makes and models of cars these days, and it is no longer a matter of filling the radiator and putting the cap back on and being done.
Hope to hear more from you over time...Happy Thanksgiving!:)
 

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I have a 2012 Dodge Avenger with the same issue. Flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat plus did the blend door actuator and the blower motor control module/resister. They said my heater core was not plugged. So any ideas why it is still blowing cold air?
 

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Welcome to the Forumz Lizzy77! I will still stand by my statements of this and other threads, a plugging up heater core. The angle that the heater core is mounted in the HVAC box inside the dashboard is the culprit. It can flow heat to the drivers side but not allow coolant to go thru the whole heater core where the air vents for the passenger side draws heated air from. By the design, there is no other explanation IF you have good heat on the drivers side.
 

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After replacing the the blend door actuator and blower heater control module I got alot more heat on the drivers side. So it does make sense what your saying
 

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After replacing the the blend door actuator and blower heater control module I got alot more heat on the drivers side. So it does make sense what your saying
Yes, it is a poorly designed HVAC box that causes this very common problem. Unfortunately there is NO other "fix" to it. They stopped making the cars in 2014(2015 200 was a complete redesign), so don't look for a "recall" with a redesigned HVAC box any time soon.
Good Luck and DO try and stay warm till that POLAR VORTEX clears out!;)
 

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After replacing the the blend door actuator and blower heater control module I got alot more heat on the drivers side. So it does make sense what your saying
I have seen on other threads that once they removed the heater core and cut it open it was plugged, that said, I would find it much more likely that it is just unbelievably difficult to bleed the air because the hoses are mounted on the bottom of the heater core. I suggest jacking the driver's front wheel off the ground as high as possible (to get the heater core as horizontal as possible), maintain a full coolant reservoir and after running the engine until the thermostat opens (normal operating temperature), install the cap and then lower the vehicle. If this doesn't work you're not out that much more money and should have the heater core replaced, but if it does work you just saved yourself $1800! Good luck and stay warm over this cold winter!
 

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Hi guys, I apologize if this is wrong section, didn't know where to post.

Just in time for winter, all the vents on the passenger side of my 2012 avenger are blowing room temperature air. The driver side vents all blow nice and hot. What could be the issue?

Thanks.
Hi guys, I apologize if this is wrong section, didn't know where to post.

Just in time for winter, all the vents on the passenger side of my 2012 avenger are blowing room temperature air. The driver side vents all blow nice and hot. What could be the issue?

Thanks.
This is the reason why you have no heat on the passengers side. That end of the heater core gets plugged with a putty like sludge! I did it myself by cutting the tubes and then the core slides right out without disassembling the entire dash. It's by the gas pedal. Cut the tubes on the new core, $64 on eBay, and reattach with short pieces of heater hose. Took about 2 hours.
 

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Replacing the actual big bulky plastic heater boxes (driver and passenger side) seems to ensure warm air blows where it's needed. Perhaps those boxes themselves and the seals, warp/deteriorate over time leading to weak/untreated airflow? So far, the $1,300 I had to deal out for the heater core and box replacement is keeping my windshield clear and passengers warm

If having your heater core replaced, since they already have the front of the car gutted out to the tune of about $550-800 in disassemble/reassemble labor, might as well pay the extra $300-550 for new boxes while they're at it.
 

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T
This is the reason why you have no heat on the passengers side. That end of the heater core gets plugged with a putty like sludge! I did it myself by cutting the tubes and then the core slides right out without disassembling the entire dash. It's by the gas pedal. Cut the tubes on the new core, $64 on eBay, and reattach with short pieces of heater hose. Took about 2 hours.
That crud in the core has been said to be from either casting sand left in components during manufacture or the bad coolant Chrysler used for a little while (I'm thinking both). I bet the mechanics said the heater core was "clean"...
 

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I own a 2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6 engine. I have this common heater problem, heat on driver side none on passenger . I,ve spent well over $1800.00 and the problem still there. I've flushed the cooling unit, changed the thermostat, changed heater core and 3 new blend actuators ,one for each position on the box. Also changed Climate Control unit on the dash. Still the problem is there. Everybody has answers but no cure. Not even the dodge dealer ship . I have about come to the conclusion something within the heater box, like a flap or door not opening. If so probably need a new heater box. Than that will be very expensive having to take the whole dash out. We are at our own mercy because Dodge/ Chrysler don't give a rat's a__.
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I own a 2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6 engine. I have this common heater problem, heat on driver side none on passenger . I,ve spent well over $1800.00 and the problem still there. I've flushed the cooling unit, changed the thermostat, changed heater core and 3 new blend actuators ,one for each position on the box. Also changed Climate Control unit on the dash. Still the problem is there. Everybody has answers but no cure. Not even the dodge dealer ship . I have about come to the conclusion something within the heater box, like a flap or door not opening. If so probably need a new heater box. Than that will be very expensive having to take the whole dash out. We are at our own mercy because Dodge/ Chrysler don't give a rat's a__.
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Yes, very frustrating.
 

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Hey folks, new here and researching my own heat issue... But on the subject of air getting trapped in the heater core, has anyone considered cutting off the metal heater core lines and replacing them with coolant hose, and simply flipping the core over so that the lines are at the top...?
 

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Haven't seen that yet.
 

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Judging from the attached picture from Dodger340, I don't think that would improve matters very much.
 

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Judging from the attached picture from Dodger340, I don't think that would improve matters very much.
I would agree, in the case of a clog as in that photo. However, i was referring to trapped air as in member Certmech's description above. HOWEVER however, i've since looked at the heater core, and my suggestion wouldnt do anything... might make it easier to replace when it does get clogged tho.
 
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