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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 14 dodge avenger sxt 3.8, 125k have it for almost 2yrs now, single zone with auto climate control, ac always worked perfectly, had well logged maintenance and no maintenance was ever done to it. So I used it the other morning and it worked fine and when I get to work I turn it on full blast and turned off the car so when remote start it will be somewhat better inside(I've only done this a couple times before) but when I get in my car it was hot as sh,t(98° outside in sun) and it never got better since then, so I noticed that the passenger side blowes out somwhat cool air while driver's side is ambient or alil warmer. Heat comes on great and even on both sides when turned on but the ac stopped blowing cool air. At first I thought it was a actuator so I ended up swapping all 3 with each other to see if problem moves or something but no change, the AC compressor actually stays on while ac is on like it should, the one line has frost on it shown in image so I'm not understanding why it suddenly stopped like that. So this mite be a hint, while swapping the actuator on driver's side the two lines (shown in second picture and can see actuator on right) where very hot and I think those two have something to do with ac but could be wrong. Any suggestions what I should do next? I don't ever do shops and do everything myself, I can't find my Haynes book anywhere is frustrating. Please help me out with this issue, thanks.
 

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Your car would have the 3.6 and it might just need a top up of refrigerant since it is 6 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry typo 3.6 pentastar... And also I remembered those 2 line I see were hot are the lines the go-to the heater core, I remember those lines going through the firewall when flushing the core out so that doesn't have anything to do with this problem. I just find this problem to be alil weird. Yea that was going to be my next move is to top it off, wanted to find my Haynes book first or I'll just get another I guess.
A friend told me it possible it could be a stuck flap but he's not familiar with these types of cars
 

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Something to consider with auto temp control systems.....
IF you run in the recirculation mode for extended periods of time the evaporator inside the HVAC box can "ice up" just as you see frosting on the A/C lines under the hood. This will cause A/C to blow "warm" as the auto temp sensor is usually mounted nearby, fooling the A/C into thinking all is cold enough. I've read MANY posts of this sort of problem on many different makes of cars with auto temp control A/C systems.
Yes I agree with what member Intrepid posted, BUT be careful with "topping up" the R-134a as too much will cause the same effect of warm air also.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok yea I've used refill kits before so I'll watch out thanks, yea I never use the auto setting but when you push the AC button the recirt button light comes on with it, at first I just turned it off Everytime but I asked about it and was told it's normal and thats just what the system does and does it for a reason. So since I don't use auto temp that shouldn't have been a problem for me right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Also is this sensor somewhat easy to check? Where is the location, I'm not coming up with anything really other than it by the evap coils
 

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Also is this sensor somewhat easy to check? Where is the location, I'm not coming up with anything really other than it by the evap coils
I'm an active member of 5 other make auto Forums, the reason I'm here is because of my old gen. Coupe model. I don't have books or schematics for the Sedan models and was just relaying some possible info as to your situation..
AUTO TEMP systems are a bit more complicated in parts involvement to deal with than was I'll call normal manual control systems, sometimes it's best to have a certified A/C shop handle problems.
Perhaps I misunderstood you concern of poor cooling at vents. Does it ever send cooled air when in use or just the time described during remote start?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the air blows fine but on the drives side it's just a tad bit warmer than ambient and passenger side you and tell that there is some ac cooled air that comes throght making a almost 10°degree deference between the two but car won't cool down at all with just that. So regardless of all possible setting to set controls, rpms remote start or not it does the same. If I have AC off and turn it to cool temp the vents match and is what it should be at which would be just ambient temp then turn ac on and the drives side get alil warmer maybe 5degrees and the passenger side get some ac cooled ac barely 10degrees lower. Drove it for 2hrs stayed the same.
 

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Simplest and least expensive thing to try is to "top up" the A/C as said before. Anything else is best left to the "pro's".
Good Luck! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so yes I forgot I have this app alfaobd and I used it to try to do more extensive test. So first thing I did was do the actuator procedure, it auto test all actuators and that comes up with recirt failed but manually testing while driving seems fine, if I have sunroof cracked you can tell a big difference when recirt is on or off so maybe there's something else like voltage not fully complete or something. There's also a cool down procedure and that test the hvac cooling systems but it also has to have certain environment and other thing it does not note, it times out when tested so idk what the deal is with that. So I replaced all actuators before the actuator test and had to add 1 small 360 can of refrigerant to fill where needed so it was 360 low and it seems to be working fine but that cool down procedure still times out when done.
 

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Your car would have the 3.6 and it might just need a top up of refrigerant since it is 6 years old.
Hi Intrepid, on another thread you had access to some PDFs on instrument panel and dash removal on Avengers. I have a 2009 that I need to replace the evaporator core and if you still have that info I would be greatly appreciative if you could send that to me at [email protected]. Thanks.
 

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Hi Intrepid, on another thread you had access to some PDFs on instrument panel and dash removal on Avengers. I have a 2009 that I need to replace the evaporator core and if you still have that info I would be greatly appreciative if you could send that to me at [email protected]. Thanks.
I just sent you the 2011-14 files. Hopefully they should be very similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the help, still working fine. Now the recirt actuator makes a creaking sound at the end of each cycle like where it ends shutting or ends opening. I thought it doesn't matter how you put the actuators back on because of how it works as long as you put it the same way it came off so you can put the screws back in right. It seems to be working fine. My only thought is maybe I took it off while in the open position and the actuator is what's holds it there so when I took it off it fell to off and the car thinks its still on but if that was the case you would think it wouldnt function and it seems fine to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so I pretty much have it a test today, I knew this would definitely show a problem if there was one. I had to sit in my car for almost 2hrs parked at 95f. At first it was fine but it slowly got warmer and warmer where the passenger side stayed somewhat cold and if I drove it seems pretty good but not the best. So I for sure have a leaked and found the leak. It looks to me that it is leaking around or where the location of the Pressure Transducer is located. I haven't fully looked into it yet but I think it's on the back side where you can't see it of that, you can see the green liquid/residue on the front side of the radiator at the location where the Pressure Transducer is located on the back side and quite a bit below it. I'll post pics tomorrow when I look more into it. Hopefully that what looks like compression nut needs to be snugged. I don't really what to use any sealers, I dont like the idea of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm a union plumber that does alot of specialty commercial work and in union school I've done some hvac class and have alil experience but ill see how it goes after work. I hate going to a shop, I think it's always 100% ripoff. I've done 2yrs of auto mechanic and always worked on cars my whole life. I've never had to take my cars to a shop and last one I had I had from new to 340k till someone rear ended and totaled it and there was no major problems and always race styled drive it everywhere lol
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea so I looked more at it, I still don't see the leak yet but I'm 100% sure it has to be the top passenger side of the condenser coil. Only thing I see it could be in that area, at first I thought it was that sensor but i was able to fully look at it with a mirror and it's not that. I guess I'm going to have to replace that coil.
 
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