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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So ive been having a problem with my 2010 DA , 2.4L SXT
The car starts and then begins to rev up and it at times stay on and runs normal , but now more than often its revs then almost dies and revs and then dies when it no longer can keep it on. I have no clue where this is coming from but here is what i have done.

-Checked alternator , removed and tested , it functions correctly
-Check battery , removed and tested , it functions correctly
-Check Throttle Body , removed and cleaned , car still shuts off

If anyone has run into this problem before please let me know

Edit1: I have been told that it could be
-Solenoids
-Fuel Pump
 

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Has the CEL on the dash been illuminated while driving before this got this bad? Need to at least do the "Key Dance" to get basic trouble codes(P _ _ _ _) to have a better "clue" as to what's going on, if you have a code reader that plugs into the OBD11 diagnostic plug under the dash... that would be even better.
From your posting, there are a number of possibilities...Better for good diagnosis than throwing in expensive parts that may not be the fix to the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So no CEL illuminated while driving , only tire pressure senor and abs light due to their own issues which ill get to fixing later. I do have a basic code reader and will provide the codes that are given.
 

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Your list of things checked/done does not "blend with an engine "rev" problem other than trying to clean the throttle body. They are a known problem area, and usually will "turn on" a warning light that many people mistake for charging light. It is a red light that looks like a lightning bolt with vertical lines on each side of it... that is the electric throttle control warning light...perhaps you went to the alternator testing(as posted) because of this?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes that is right , the battery icon is for the alternator when its having a charging problem. The throttle light does come on when the key is on the "ON" position but when the car is on , the light goes away , i will get my code reader in a bit to get the codes.
 

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OK, now we're getting somewhere....
U1418 is a FR wheel speed sensor issue
P2107 is IMRC stuck open code...many posts of this on the forum and videos that link to youtube on how to fix it.
The 0456 COULD be as simple as needing a new gas cap or further diagnosis, but not related to what your post title says
In fact none of these codes have a direct influence on the posted concern. My opinion is that the drive gears in the throttle body are worn (non repairable) and that the cleaning you did do would not help this case. So IMO you probably need to replace the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would 1418 be caused by CV ? There is a hum at exactly 60mph , also yeah it just may be the gas cap , for 2107 I’ll look for it on this forum to see what comes up, hopefully not costly fix and as for the throttle Body , do you think that this would cause the car to shutdown ? I can provide a video of what the car does to better understand the issue
 

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Could be a bad wheel bearing, but it may have also damaged the sensor that reads from it..2 different parts that work together.
IMRC means removing the intake manifold from the motor and cleaning the 4 runners to free up the "flap plates" in each.
YES the big plate in the throttle body is gear operated, if those gears have worn off teeth then the plate does not move precisely for operation and can cause high revving AND stalling at idle. This is a common part to fail on older and higher mileage 2.4 motors(and not just Avenger models).They have come down a LOT in price in the last few years to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’ve replaced both wheel bearing and the only sensor I’ve seen is the abs inside, which more than likely one is bad. As for the throttle body , you may be right but it’s odds cause the car will run when it stays on and won’t have any issues driving far , so I’m assuming the TB isn’t to worn if the car still runs for more than 200miles
 

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Depends on where the worn drive gear teeth are (closed throttle, mid range or near full throttle) that will allow conditions you describe in the throttle body. BUT those gears are in a sealed compartment of the throttle body, as I posted NON REPAIRABLE ...replace throttle body. If you are not a good auto DIY'er, I would suggest finding a GOOD independent repair shop to have them diagnose and ADVISE you on what needs to be done, then you can proceed on your own with what you feel comfortable with to save some money and not spend money "throwing parts in that may not be needed. Yes it may cost a few bucks for a good diagnosis, BUT you'll save in the long run. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’ve just ordered a new one and hopefully this fixes the issue and for the most part I replace my parts on my own because taking it anywhere they charge a leg and arm.
 

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The wheel speed sensor for ABS is a separate part from the wheel bearing. It's that wire that goes along the strut and into the steering knuckle that the wheel bearing bolts to.Try looking your car up for parts on rockauto.com and I think you'll understand better of what I speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I do , the sensor is small and you can remove it by removing one bolt that holds it in but for now I’ll wait till the TB gets here and I’ll install it and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also btw 2107 is something else , code 2017 is for IMRC which isn’t the code I got
 

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Also btw 2107 is something else , code 2017 is for IMRC which isn’t the code I got
Yes you are correct...Imust have transposed numbers when looking up codes. The P2107 IS an Electric throttle control (throttle body) code, and reinforces the rest of my postings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah I can see that happening well hopefully it works out , I’ll keep you posted once I put the part in , thanks once again
 

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Yeah I can see that happening well hopefully it works out , I’ll keep you posted once I put the part in , thanks once again
Just a "tip"....You may want to hard reset the computer by leaving battery disconnected for a few hours to clear out adaptive learned computer settings and then give a few proper drive cycles for all to settle back to "normal" once the throttle body os installed.There is a chance it might still act "wonky" on initial start otherwise, and could give you "disappointing" results at first run.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After changing the TB , the car still does the same , Nothing has changed , still stays on when it wants too , it so odd , it’s like the car almost die and revs to stay on but dies after 8 seconds or so
 

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Did you just install it and try immediately running it, or prolonged idle? Did you read and follow my suggestion in post # 18. The ECM may be confused with prior data, and need to clear that out back to base program settings. Sometimes they can still act "screwy" if not done and just try to drive off with it. Just clearing codes is not enough to do this.
 
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