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Hello all and thanks for being here. Hoping I can get some help with an issue, or two or...... I'll keep it short.
2010 Dodge Avenger RT 2.4L with solenoid b error code and went into limp mode. I had to drive it very slow for about 20 miles to get it home and the battery light came on. Replaced solenoid pack, transmission fluid and filter and reset (cleared) code. Drove fine for a few miles with no battery light on and went back into limp mode with solenoid b error code. Cleaned pcm connector, replaced speed sensors on transmission and it drove fine for a day or two just around town maybe 30 miles and went back into limp mode and battery light back on. Cleared codes again, just to see if I could get lucky, worked ok but noticed low beam headlights don't work and battery light back on and it wasn't on directly after resetting. Only high beam work. So now fully charged battery drains after sitting a few days, battery light comes on, only high beam headlights work and I have to keep resetting to drive it at all. I'm thinking PCM?

Thanks Tom
 

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Howdy long time Quiet member! A few things you may not know about the charging system of your 2.4(and only on the 2.4) is that the alternator uses a clutched pulley drive, in that thru the TIPM(fuse panel) that when the cars see's the need for "more charge" it thru electrical impulse engages the mechanical alt. pulley. These are known to go bad, and at the age of your ride now, if tested bad would be better to replace the whole alternator than just the pulley.
With all the electrical demands of the Avenger/Sebring/200 platform, a proper working system is a must. A weak battery more than 4 yrs. old can create a lot of different symptom problems. Also the TIPM/fuse panel were known for similar electrical problems such as you describe about the headlights. unfortunately this is a replace part(no real fixes as the problem is inside the units sealed printed circuit board. The best thing before spending a lot of money on parts that may not be the problem is to start at the basics and check the battery with a load tester to see just how many volts and Cranking amps are left in it. Then CLEAN the terminals AND inside the cable ends. YES the battery is in a heck of a place to get at! Then check for clean jumper post and ground connection to the body and motor. they get "crusty" and impede electrical flow, dielectric grease applied to all connection points will help greatly.
There are more things to suggest, but I'd start out there and report back on how things go. GOOD LUCK! :)
 

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Thank you 5rebel9. Yes I have been a quiet member as I don't drive this vehicle all that often anymore and I haven't had time to look into the issues as I in the process of moving. So your response is much appreciated and this is something I am going to whittle away at. The TIPM at this point seems to be the most likely culprit but obviously will have to check all when time permits. I did not know that about the alternator pulley and actually this might be the best place to start. It all started with the solenoid B error and going into limp mode and after replacing the solenoid valve all of the other issues started popping up. Again, thank you for the advice and I will definitely report back.
 
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