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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so, as the title states I've got a ticking that only seems to occur around the 2500rpm mark. Just started recently.
And it's fookin loud, my car always had a slight tick(idler pulley out of whack) but not like this and never this loud.
A little back ground info, car is the 2012 2.4l 230k
Only engine related mods done are a muffler delete, and custom built CAI. I'm running Bosch spark plugs.
Idler pulleys and belt have been changed, got rid of the "always" tick but not this one.
I did have an oil issue recently. My drain plug got knocked loose due to a slab of ice in the entrance to where I park to go to work, but was noticed well before the oil went below the "safe" line on the dipstick, and an oil change was done just last week using Castrol gtx 5w20. I do have a CEL light but only code is for my vapour canister, which I've tried to replace a few times now and checked all lines but code won't go away.
Only other thing I can think of to mention is on initial startup in an enclosed space like my garage, you can very easily smell gas comming from the front of the car for a good 15-25sec. The smell then goes away, however a friend of mine whose a certified mechanic looked over all my gas lines, injectors ECT with me and said he saw nothing wrong at all.
Friend says the ticking is probably my lifters and the lack of oil from the loose plug probably caused it, but he's a mechanic so I'm not gonna make him look at my car on his days off lol
And I personally think it may be a gasket break at my exhaust mani.
Spitball with me guys, I can't go fast when my car sounds like a ticking time bomb
 

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Perhaps a short video with SOUND would help. You've pretty much kicked around all the possibilities already. The sudden loss oil oil can do lots of bad things to many of the internal motor components(timing chain/piston slap/ rod bearings) that you didn't mention already.
 

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You may also want to revisit the idler pulley issue...If you've heard it before, they don't get better on their own and only get worse as time goes by.
Ask your friend about a mechanics stethoscope and how it's used to pinpoint noises. That will help you out a lot in finding the cause of the "ticking".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We already replaced the idlers (and belt) and that original sound from the bad idler is gone, you could always hear it on ititial startup. And can't be heard anymore. And I'll ask about the stethoscope, he may be able to borrow one from the garage he used to work at
 

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Yes, I saw that after re reading after posting last....
Gas smell could be from EVAP system leak(code described).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree with you on the evap system part, as mentioned I've replaced the broken canister. But I tried two other canisters now (from a chrysler 200 2012 and avenger 2013) and the code still remains. So although we checked all the hoses there must be a leak somewhere.
As for the ticking though I just talked to buddy, he said it's hard to exactly pinpoint with ear or stephescope because of how loud the car is at 2500rpm BUT he also said it's definitely coming from the firewall side of the engine or at least in that vicinity, so as he explained it to me. From the front of the car, cut the engine bay in half, and the sound is coming from somewhere in the rear of the bay. Which to me means as you mentioned rod bearings, or exhaust leak at the manifold. Or maybe the firewall itself. But we're gonna dig into it a bit more this weekend to try and pinpoint a more exact area to search.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took a little while to dig into it. I had to replace my tranny lines before we dug too deep into the ticking.
Replaced the lines, started looking around. Even tore open my old oil filter to check for metal, not much of anything there kinda surprising for a 230xxxxkm engine.
Anyways we did end up finding the gasket on my exhaust manifold is worn out. But the manifold itself is horrible, bolts are rusted beyond belief so looks like a junkyard run next weekend to find a replacement and bolts. And a run to the store for a gasket. Needs to be replaced wether it's the cause of the ticking or not.
So we will be replacing that, taking a good long test drive, and if I don't hear the ticking I'll report back ASAP
 

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Glad you've made some progress! Yes a leaking exhaust manifold/or gasket can cause a ticking noise, but is usually easy to tell between an engine internal tick or external one. Seems we both were going on both possibilities at the same time.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's perfectly alright though!
I'd rather have all possibilities laid out for me. There was another weird sound I was hearing too but it wasn't a tick and only happened so often, turns out the valence under my front bumper was undone and the wind while driving causing it to pull in and out of place lol so at one point it was dragging on the ground and I had no idea what made the sound. I've got the valence off now that we did the tranny lines. So I'm gonna cut the valence down where it was grinding (both sides of it) and put the piece back up. My point is that doing all these things is helping fix other issues that I couldn't pinpoint and was just kind of ignoring because they weren't constant, unlike the ticking.
On another note, on the exhaust manifold. It has that aluminum looking cover on it? I haven't looked too hard at it but is it just meant as a removable head shield or is it married to the rest of the manifold?
 

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Well, sounds like a lot of "little things" that had been "adding up" on your ride...and time to get them "squared away;)!
Yes that's a heat shield and I can't tell you decisively that it unbolts or is also tack welded, most manifold shields do unbolt but the brackets for them to bolt to are welded to the manifold. AND are known to get just as rusty/seized as manifold nuts and studs.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well unfortunately I'm not gonna be able to look into it for a bit, due to my amazing luck my alternator decided to crap out on me -.- second one in 6 months. So I gotta run to the wreckers tommorow and see about a newish one. And start checking for any other tick possibilities while I'm down there
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I'm feeling like a lucky punk! Wreckers checked my alternator with the seriel number they chicken scratched on it when they sold me it, gave me the new one for the core charge of the old one! So I'm back on the road for free haha. Well free minus my time. Anyways put a manifold gasket on and low and behold, the constant tick is gone! Manifold definitely needs to be replaced shortly, rusted to crap along with the bolts. But that can wait, cause now I have a knocking in my rear end when I break while driving -.- only started when I changed from my winter to all season tires. Sounds like multiple little knocks whenever I hold the brakes. As soon as I stop or release them they stop. And in park it doesn't happen. So onto my suspension I suppose!
Anyways thanks for the help 5rebel9!! Much appreciated
 

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Good to hear that things are going better from original postings!...BUT like an old saying...It just goes to show that there's always something!;)
I've read and seen video's that the alternator is not the easiest to replace, much like many other cars,so yup it does take some time to do!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh yeah it's pretty bad, getting the "new" one in is actually the hardest part if your trying to do it the "proper" way. Me ya no I bolt it in top then slide it down to match. Push using hands as far as I can then hammer it in place. 10x easier than what they say the proper way is haha. And I fully agree with you. Upside other than the alternator most of the jobs I've had to do have been fairly easy. Might see about relocating the battery to the trunk once the nice weather hits just to alleviate that wheel well headache
 

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5Rebel9 any clues on where my fuel filter would be? It's the 2.4
Fuel filter is part of the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. It's gotten to by removing the rear seat bottom and then a cover plate. Not a normally replaced(preventive) maint. part, but can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I see thank you. I used to own a 2003 Mitsubishi eclipse and the pump assembly was in the same spot, so that will be easy to deal with should it come down to it.
I just read all different things concerning it's location so I thought I should get clarification from someone who clearly knows their stuff lol
See I have no prior history on the car and I've only owned it for around 10 months so I'm thinking I should just buckle down and do everything I can to keep it alive and running now.
Next step will be dropping the transmission pan, possibly replacing it and new fluid, since god only knows if anything has been done transmission wise since it came off the assembly line.
 

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It probably has NOT ever been down. DO drop the pan AND also change the Trans. Filter. DO NOT be persuaded to have a "Flush" or "Power Flush" done, MANY threads of trans problems after this type service was done. ATF+4 fluid only.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry to completely swap topic here 5rebel9, but mind if I pick your brain? Original alternator died about 3 months after I got the car, changed it. It lasted me through winter, till last week. Changed that one.
Each time I've gotten a synonamous code that says injector circuit cylinder 4 issue. And now it's only a week after changing it and I'm getting the injector circuit error again. Yet I know nothing is actually wrong with that injector circuit, checked that all the first time lol
Now given all of these alternators have been used and I know they are prone to die. But I'm wondering what all possibilities could be causing premature failure in them. So if this turns out to be yet another bad alt/pulley I can take preventative measures before replacing it again?
 
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