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There are a large number of members with great experience with their Avengers, I appreciate your confidence in my suggestions, but to all this is an open thread...ALL are welcome to "chime in" with suggestions.:)

Now for "starters"
You should do a good charging system testing...to include
Battery age, load test(by special meter tester),good CLEAN connections (including grounds to jumper posts, motor and chassis)
Then a voltage reading test at idle with no load(13 -14.5V) and that it maintains that range when lights and such are turned on. The voltage regulator is in the fuse panel/TIPM, if low or over 14.5v you may be looking at a TIPM.
There have been a number of members that have reported shorted wiring harness from the alternator into the main engine wiring, that is a lengthy visual inspection with opening up the harness wrapping to see.
Good luck and keep in touch with your findings!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
No problem, I only mention you cause youve been the only one to really chime in, and you've invaluable here lol

Is it possible since it's coming up as a "possible fault" code that it's only appearing because it was still stored in the ecm even after I changed out the alt last time? I mean in theory it should have cleared it all but I notice the far is very finicky with codes.
 

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There are some codes that must be "cleared" or they stay in the comp. memory. BUT if the fault is still there, the CEL will be right back on, and the best thing is for you to post those in the P_ _ _ _ format for best help...I don't like to go and try and find the problem by basic code description as there is a diagnostic plan for each specific code.
Good luck, and post up when you've got some hard results from suggestions given.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok so the injector code I'm getting is P0204.
But they should have been cleared when I did the alternator as I had the negative disconnected from the jumper post the whole time.

I checked voltage at the battery(14.5v) the jumper posts(14.6v) and at the alt(14.7v) with one seat warmer, AC, daytime running lights and music going including the subwoofers in the trunk.
All connections between alt, battery posts, and jumper posts are tight.

Also took a visual look at the grounding points, since some of them are difficult to get to physically. And they all look both clean and tight. I'll see about physically checking them on a warmer day since it's cold and rainy right now.

I changed out the ignition coils (230km) for a used set(109km) about a week before changing the alternator.
And spark plugs only have about 10,000km on them.
I ran injector cleaner through the tank and TB back about two weeks after I got the car(regular seafoam and the spray can variant respectively)

I should also mention I do have the dreaded cluster flickering/dimming issue, that last I checked was an issue with a chip on the cluster main board. Though I don't see something like that causing this many problems lol

Hopefully this all gives a bit better information to go off of, narrows down a few things
 

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OK, NOW the P0204 code is rather specific... # 4 injector or it's wiring to it. This is an electrical system fault code for injectors, not a mechanical fault in fuel.
The least "technical" way to check is to swap that injector to another cylinder and see if the code changes to that cylinder(P0201,02,03.wherever you place it). IF it does move, then it's a bad injector. if not,then you need to track out the wiring for both the power and ground of that # 4 connector( a wiring diagram is very helpful here, but I don't have one to post). First wiring checks should be VISUAL of good connector and wires going into the harness plug(most common fail points).
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Alright so small update. I've gotten ahold of injectors and a rail, replaced mine with it. Obviously disconnected the negative post to do this job so all codes were cleared. I will say the car has a lot more "get up and go" than before especially when passing on the highway.
After a few days the injector circuit code came back. So I will be after the connector and wiring this coming weekend
 

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Hang in there and don't give up the ship yet!:) And since it seems to be running a bit better, can you update just what engine codes it's showing and just what symptoms of drive ability it gives?;) And is it still for the same cylinder location(by code)as before?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well it was still giving the good ol' P0204 for my 4th cyl Injector circuit. But now it's gone? I just checked a few minutes ago. Seems like it may be intermittent because I got it back in the winter too and it left after a few weeks. But it seemed to correlate with my alternator dying.... So I just dunno right now lol
As for drivability though it seemed to quiet down the engine a bit and exhaust. Not by much, but enough that it's noticable. I got the "new" injectors out of an 08' venge and just from visual inspection the spray holes seemed to be bigger on the 08 injectors vs the 2012 ones.
Accel also seems to be easier on it
 

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Get a can of Sea Foam brand engine/ fuel system treatment and put it in when you fill up with fuel. May not fix your actual problem, but sounds like from all you've been thru it may help clean out the fuel system and I surmise used injectors. It will also help decarbon the valves and combustion chambers.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Alright so ran into a slight hiccup.
Was hearing clicking whenever I shifted from front left.
Decided to say screw it and changed out my CV axle because the sound was coming from where the axle met the tranny.
Fun job for sure lol so I ended up being set back about 100$ for the axle, axle seal,axle nut socket and replacement tranny fluid. Upside the axle is in, tranny fluid replaced and put to what I hope is the proper level. I still hear clicks every now and again but with the random new fluid being put in I'm sure it's all just making its way through the system. Looking forward to doing the passenger side lol
Anyways I did end up picking up seafoam and running it. Not too much of a difference so far but it may just be too early to tell.
Upside I have not seen the injector code since I last posted, only the usual evap system code which is the least of my concerns lol
So hopefully it stays like this. Although I'm starting to think the car is just temperamental with the temperature. It was -2° to +5° when I was getting the code, it hasn't really left the +10° and up since I last saw the code. Maybe I'm just reading into it too much but eh who knows
 

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Sorry I missed seeing this sooner! Glad to hear there has once again been progress. The Seafoam is not instant fix, it takes time and the full tank of fuel to do it's work. But if you're not getting those injector codes don't worry more about them. They do make some clicking noise that can be faintly heard normally. And more pronounced when very cold.
Trans fluid wouldn't have much to do about "clicking noises", You may want to recheck the front brake parts and move inward. The Passenger side axle has a center bearing about midpoint on the axle that is known to go bad...CHECK THAT or have a shop inspect that pass. axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
We already changed the entire CV axle, the clicking noises are still there from time to time, just not as often. Changed the axle seal as well. So sounds like the tranny is just on it's way out. But yeah I'm just going to wait and see what happens in terms of those injector codes, if they don't come back then I'll call myself lucky lol
 

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Hey guys so, as the title states I've got a ticking that only seems to occur around the 2500rpm mark. Just started recently.
And it's fookin loud, my car always had a slight tick(idler pulley out of whack) but not like this and never this loud.
A little back ground info, car is the 2012 2.4l 230k
Only engine related mods done are a muffler delete, and custom built CAI. I'm running Bosch spark plugs.
Idler pulleys and belt have been changed, got rid of the "always" tick but not this one.
I did have an oil issue recently. My drain plug got knocked loose due to a slab of ice in the entrance to where I park to go to work, but was noticed well before the oil went below the "safe" line on the dipstick, and an oil change was done just last week using Castrol gtx 5w20. I do have a CEL light but only code is for my vapour canister, which I've tried to replace a few times now and checked all lines but code won't go away.
Only other thing I can think of to mention is on initial startup in an enclosed space like my garage, you can very easily smell gas comming from the front of the car for a good 15-25sec. The smell then goes away, however a friend of mine whose a certified mechanic looked over all my gas lines, injectors ECT with me and said he saw nothing wrong at all.
Friend says the ticking is probably my lifters and the lack of oil from the loose plug probably caused it, but he's a mechanic so I'm not gonna make him look at my car on his days off lol
And I personally think it may be a gasket break at my exhaust mani.
Spitball with me guys, I can't go fast when my car sounds like a ticking time bomb
i hate to bring up the fact it may be rod knock in your engine atleast that was the case for me, i had this issue maybe ago and i had to replace my engine luckily i was able to find one with only 100k out of a chrysler 200 for only 250$ of course i did all the labor myself. and just like your situation 2500 was the sweet spot, the engine had 195k miles so right around the same milage also. i have a video i recorded a while back to see if anyone would reconize the noise but no luck !
 

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Discussion Starter #34
i hate to bring up the fact it may be rod knock in your engine atleast that was the case for me, i had this issue maybe ago and i had to replace my engine luckily i was able to find one with only 100k out of a chrysler 200 for only 250$ of course i did all the labor myself. and just like your situation 2500 was the sweet spot, the engine had 195k miles so right around the same milage also. i have a video i recorded a while back to see if anyone would reconize the noise but no luck !
That is a HELL of a lot worse that what I have, my tick is a LOT lighter. Honestly if my car started that loud I'd probably stop driving right away lol
But I feel my ticking is kind of weather dependant, it's now +22° where I am and it's hardly audible if at all and once the engine hits operating temp the ticking doesn't even seem to be there. Honestly my guess is just oil sludge buildup causing the oil to not get in every nook and cranny it should.
 

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So I'm feeling like a lucky punk! Wreckers checked my alternator with the seriel number they chicken scratched on it when they sold me it, gave me the new one for the core charge of the old one! So I'm back on the road for free haha. Well free minus my time. Anyways put a manifold gasket on and low and behold, the constant tick is gone! Manifold definitely needs to be replaced shortly, rusted to crap along with the bolts. But that can wait, cause now I have a knocking in my rear end when I break while driving -.- only started when I changed from my winter to all season tires. Sounds like multiple little knocks whenever I hold the brakes. As soon as I stop or release them they stop. And in park it doesn't happen. So onto my suspension I suppose!
Anyways thanks for the help 5rebel9!! Much appreciated
hey my 2013 dodge avenger se 4 cylinder is ticking and i see that you had the same problem and you fixed it with that, i was wondering if when you did have the ticking that it sounded like it was coming from the top of the engine? like a top end problem
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yes top end by the serp belt when facing the engine from the front of the car.
Though I likely won't have the car much longer, the ticking did eventually return. As well as a whole barrel of electrical problems.
But honestly even with the slight tick, before the car became a full lemon the ticking didn't seem to effect anything. My accel, speed, responsiveness all stayed the same. So I would say don't worry about it too much, do what ya can to help it, but otherwise leave it.
 
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