What motor is in your ride? Was the alternator you replaced a used one or a remanufactured unit? If you have the 2.4 motor, the alternator pulley is a clutched drive unit and known to go bad thus not allowing the alternator to charge. If battery is the original(almost 5yrs. old now), I would strongly recommend replacing it anyway and knowing where it is mounted...Have you EVER cleaned the terminal connections?

 

yes, it is the 2.4 motor.

The alternator I put in was a new unit.

I am assuming the battery is original, as I bought the car in 2014 with about 30k on it - but haven't checked. I am aware of the battery location, but no...have never acutally seen it....and so have never cleaned the terminals. will add that to my to-do list today.

Is there anyway to troubleshoot the pulley itself and see if that may be the culprit?

 

The pulley is a mechanical action "clutch", usually they make a clacking or grating noise when they go bad. My 04 T&C van uses the same system and I have had 2 go bad, there is not an actual test that I know of for it. The Alt. has to be removed and with a special tool, the pulley can be replaced. I do not have handy the tool name or number to tell you what it is right now. But is definitely cheaper than buying a complete alternator.
BUT check the cable ends and battery terminals FIRST.

 

Ok thank you. I will take a look at the cables and terminals today - and hope that is the cause.

If the alternator is the issue it is under warranty (assuming I can find the receipt...) - just don't want to go down that rabbit hole if not needed!

 

I left work last night, made it about a quarter mile and the battery light came on again, so I turned around and parked it for the night.

I was able to see the battery (from the top) enough to see that the posts were very clean. as far as I can tell the cables look to be in good shape as well. will do some further inspection on the cables today just to make sure.

unfortunately it is looking more and more like the alternator, which is what I was hoping to avoid...

I could not see a sticker on the battery to confirm that it is the original.

 

Also check the condition(clean connection) at the alternator wires. They are kind of exposed to the elements. The Sedan Avengers are known for low battery lifespans It is not just volts that it needs but the AMPS (CA and CCA).

 

ok sounds good, will check out the alternator today.

again, very much a novice here.....Can I check the Amps on the battery? I can check the volts no problem..but unsure on the Amps.

 

It takes a load test tool and best done clamping DIRECTLY on the battery posts. The common(and cheap) VOM and DVOM meters can not do this test.
Who does your auto maintenance? If you don't have the knowledge or tools to do things, and plan on keeping any car beyond new warranties, you should find a GOOD and reputable independant repair shop and become a "regular" customer. "Box Store" service centers and dealers will suck your bank account DRY.

 

I do have a local shop that I've used off and on for years, so having someone much more knowledgeable work on the car when needed is not a concern (the funds are though lol).

We also have have several mechanics here at work, that i run everything by before moving forward with any major repairs.

In general, anything I can do, I will. I have no problem admitting when it is too much for me to handle, and pay an expert to take care of.

I will check out the alternator and will be able to have the battery tested here at work

 

Well it sounds as you should have things WELL under control. Many people will only go to a Dealer or "Box store Center".
Auto repair is not cheap anywhere, but can be MORE expensive by trying to DIY without ample skills or proper tools.
There are some very good You Tube video's that show and explain how to do certain repairs or testing, Maybe look up some, to help give you a "visual" on how to go about things. Good luck, and keep us posted on how things go for you.

 

I appreciate all the help so far.

will update as I can

thanks

 

I bet since your battery light came on that you have an advanced code set, one that a normal scanner can't read. You need to have your codes read with a scanner that will read advanced ones also.

 

I was able to get the battery replaced today (was able to do it without removing the wheel, so that's a bonus). Several restarts and driving around town and so far all is good.

I did do the key dance and got a code of P2504. From my research it confirmed the battery vs alternator debate basically, but decided to go with the battery because it was much older than the alternator and would eventually need it anyway.

Now just crossing my fingers and hoping for the best...

 

It's been over a week now since replacing the battery and happy to report that there has been issues since. Looks like the battery was the culprit. Thank you all for the help and insight.

Until next time

 

Well let's not make next time another TROUBLE CALL! How about showing off your ride with a few pics and things you have done to "personalize your ride!
Glad all is working well!

 

well....it lasted a solid 7 months....and the same exact symptoms are back. replacing the battery back in July solved everything. I have been dealing with the same issues this week.

My game plan now is to recheck Everything I can. starting with the battery cables.

Nothing has been done to the car since replacing the battery - except the warranty recall on the occupant restraint controller.

My gut is telling me that the alternator has failed (approx 2 years old).

 

well....it lasted a solid

????...it lasted a solid _________? Enquiring minds would love to know...

 

Oops! I edited the post...

 

I spent the weekend tearing everything apart. The battery cables and terminals all look good. The battery tested great, as did the alternator.

My final idea is that is has something to do with the OCR being replaced. O clue how that would affect it....but I'm out of ideas.

I even pulled all the fuses and check them out, but no issues.

 

If the condition was good for 7 months, and you have now checked cables and terminals and say they look good. BUT did you actually CLEAN them with anything that makes the terminals and posts "shiney" clean?, Dullness of "look" can still be high resistance(poor connection), which will give troubles. Did you also check the connections of the battery wires to the jumping posts in the engine compartment?
STRONGLY doubt that the OCR recall would have anything at all to do with your problem.

EDIT: HOW did you test the 7 month old battery? with a voltmeter or with a load tester for Ca/CCA ? You can have good volts, but that does not mean the available crank amps of the battery are sufficient to the systems needs, and will also tell if a cell in the battery is going bad. And what is the CA/CCA rating of the battery you bought? Hopefully equal to or GREATER then the Original one.

 

I did clean the terminals and posts to make them shiny. I inspecting the wires best I could, but mainly focused down at the battery - will give another look tonight at the jumping posts.

I agree regarding the OCR, just suspicious timing, that's all.

The battery was tested with a volt meter, did not do a load test (nor do I know how....). The battery that I put in has the following specs:

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 525
Cranking Amps (CA): 655

 

OKAY that will help for members to have something to "chew on" to post up with suggestions. Battery is of good rating, so if a load test gets done(it is a meter tool much like a voltmeter in use) would say how many of those CA are actually there for use. You need more than volts to have a good battery. Any autozone type parts store can do this quick test for FREE and as long as you know that all cables from battery to the jumper posts are good, the load tester they have can be hooked up at the jumper posts and be accurate.

 

well, did the load test this morning, and sure enough it is a bad battery cell.

at this point, that is excellent news. battery is under warranty.

thank you for the help!!

 

Glad to hear it is the battery and not related to the OCR. I'm getting the recall done in a couple days and didn't want to swap problems.

 

Glad things are working out for you and your ride! Don't become a Stranger here again now!

 

5rebel9, people like you are what make the internet and these types of forums invaluable! much appreciation!

I am always around....just don't post often.

 

There are a number of good, knowledgeable members active here, Thank you for counting me as one of them.