I usually use a full synthetic. Right now I'm using what ever the dealer puts in there until 12k miles and then I will switch. I once went about 25k miles on one change of amsoil. Car was no worse for the wear either. I probably won't do it again, but don't let anyone tell ya it can't be done!

 

I usually use a full synthetic. Right now I'm using what ever the dealer puts in there until 12k miles and then I will switch. I once went about 25k miles on one change of amsoil. Car was no worse for the wear either. I probably won't do it again, but don't let anyone tell ya it can't be done!

I would have like to had seen an oil analysis done on that oil. Did you change the oil filter during any of those 25k miles or did it go the distance to?

 

I would have like to had seen an oil analysis done on that oil. Did you change the oil filter during any of those 25k miles or did it go the distance to?

Oh no, that was the same oil filter as well. It was a amsoil filter though. I doubt it was a great thing for the car, but I really never had any trouble with it before or after that event. Never burned any oil or anything really.

 

you crazy man oil is very imporant for a car thas like blood in ya vains

 

you crazy man oil is very imporant for a car thas like blood in ya vains

I have read several reports where someone went over 9000 miles before an oil change. The debris in the oil is always elevated but expected and the TBN was was depleted. I usually change my oil and filter around 5000 and that is with full synthetic.

 

Royal purple user for the first time, going to get an oil analysis done when I change it. :smileup:

 

To clarify, I did this cause I didn't really care about the car. I would never had done it if I cared, nor would I ever do it on this one. But talk about a bulletproof engine/tranny. I did my best to mistreat it and it never let me down.

I almost forgot...I had a bad wheel bearing for at least 40000 miles and that never completed failed either. Noisy as all heck at times, but still drove.

 

Those where the days...

 

I go 5000 miles on a synthetic blend. The blended/synthetic oils were initially advertised as having a longer life, thus justifying the added cost. The cost has come down making those oils more popular, which is why I believe they now say chage at 3K miles. I haven't had any problems changing at 5K.

 

I go 5000 miles on a synthetic blend. The blended/synthetic oils were initially advertised as having a longer life, thus justifying the added cost. The cost has come down making those oils more popular, which is why I believe they now say chage at 3K miles. I haven't had any problems changing at 5K.

I would think, synthetic or not, unless your consistently hard driving or racing to extreme rpms, one could probably change the oil every 6k miles.

I'm near 4500 miles right now...still no sight of the oil change indicator. If it comes on before 6k, then I'll change it. If not, then I'll change at 6k. Something tells me I won't see the indicator however..

 

Dodge recommends 5W20 for the 2.4l and 2.7l while the 3.5l is 10W30. At Wal-Mart you can but Mobil 1 in a 5 Qt container for $20.00 in both viscosities. My preference would be the 5W30 over the 10W30. This averages to about $4.00 a Qt. Mobil 1 is very good oil at that price.

 

I'm thinking I might become a Amsoil dealer. Maybe can get a group buy going or something. Would have to wait till after the holidays for me though. Too much going on and too much cash going out! lol

 

Dodge recommends 5W20 for the 2.4l and 2.7l while the 3.5l is 10W30. At Wal-Mart you can but Mobil 1 in a 5 Qt container for $20.00 in both viscosities. My preference would be the 5W30 over the 10W30. This averages to about $4.00 a Qt. Mobil 1 is very good oil at that price.

When i got my car serviced at the dealer last week they put 5w-30 in.

 

When i got my car serviced at the dealer last week they put 5w-30 in.

Your dealer is putting an oil that will flow better at start-up in the cold weather I know you have up there. Most engine wear occurs at start-up and the 5W30 will flow faster with less effort on your engine's oil pump. On the 6.1 Hemi an 0W40 is recommended while the 5.7 Hemi gets 5W20 due to the MDS.

 

Yeah, even though we don't have weather like they do in Canada, we still get frigid weather.

 

Does anyone really know the difference between Full synthetic, and Synthetic blend?

 

I gotta be honest guys. It is whatever the dealership has. Being a employee I get a discount and I get it done while I am at work.

 

I had mine done.. got 5w30 from the dealer as well

 

Does anyone really know the difference between Full synthetic, and Synthetic blend?

Full Synthetic - A group III,IV, or V base oil

Synthectic Blend - Oil that is mostly group II base with III,IV, or V added to it.

This is a very basic answer. If you would like me to go in a lot more in detail I will. I like talking about oil

 

Well I guess my understanding is that the full synthetic is thiner than the blend...??

 

Well I guess my understanding is that the full synthetic is thiner than the blend...??

A full synthetic will most likely have a lower pour point and higher flash point when compared to a blend or regular oil in the same viscosity. Its just better quality oil. Is it needed for normal usage most likely not.

 

Thanks Zonestar. It is pretty interesting stuff. As you can tell I am not very technical. But I do like learning things like this.

 

I have posted about different groups of oil bases a few times so I will give a better explanation below of the bases.

Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API.

Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax.

Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it.

Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process).

Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). A synthetic.

Group V is a catch all group for any other synthetic and mineral base stocks. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs).

Groups I, II, and III are sometimes referred to as mineral oils and groups IV and V as synthetic oils. However, most manufacturers have labeled their group III based oils as synthetic in the US for reasons of economy and marketing.
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thanks again Zonestar

 

Cool info there zonestar!