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What type of oil do you have in your engine?

  • Regular

    Votes: 41 39%
  • Synthetic Blend

    Votes: 10 9.6%
  • Full Synthetic

    Votes: 55 53%
21 - 40 of 58 Posts
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I have posted about different groups of oil bases a few times so I will give a better explanation below of the bases.

Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API.

Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax.

Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it.

Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process).

Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). A synthetic.

Group V is a catch all group for any other synthetic and mineral base stocks. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs).

Groups I, II, and III are sometimes referred to as mineral oils and groups IV and V as synthetic oils. However, most manufacturers have labeled their group III based oils as synthetic in the US for reasons of economy and marketing.
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I have posted about different groups of oil bases a few times so I will give a better explanation below of the bases.

Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API.

Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax.

Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it.

Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process).

Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). A synthetic.

Group V is a catch all group for any other synthetic and mineral base stocks. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs).

Groups I, II, and III are sometimes referred to as mineral oils and groups IV and V as synthetic oils. However, most manufacturers have labeled their group III based oils as synthetic in the US for reasons of economy and marketing.
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That is what I was looking for! Thanks! :smiley_thumbs_up:
More rep for you!! ;)
 
Several companies are now manufacturing a biodegradable motor oil. The engines that have been using them are turning in very good oil analysis reports. I will be reading up on them and post some details soon.
Cool! Be interested to see if they do better or worse in testing versus conventional oils.
 
I use Quaker State Full Synthetic. One of my friend Dads owned a mechanic shop and has worked on many many types of cars. Over the years he has seen it all. And he was asked on day. What is better Synthetic or Regular oil.

Note: I live in a small town. with many small towns around.

We he was unsure of the question because he has seen mixed results from the cars he worked on. When he looked at peoples oil 99% of the time he was unsure of the brand. So this person made him think what is better? So he decided to start his own control tests.

As I was not around him for the tests I am unsure of what control tests he did. At the time I never gave a crap about that kind of stuff. But what I do know is the results.

Regular/ Semi Synthetic / Full synthetic

Pennzoil
Quaker State
Mobil
and two other name brands not sure what they were off hand,

Now the result dumb founded him as he was a committed to using Pennzoil

For the most part Regular oil is the worst to use regardless of the brand but some are better than others still. Next was Semi Synthetic and Full Synthetic is the Best to use.

Rated from worst to best.

Regular
Pennzoil came in at the bottom on Regular. It left the most harmful deposits inside and caused the most amount of friction.
Next were the two other brands (Sorry don’t remember the brand)
Quaker State was next in amount of deposits and friction.
Mobile came out on top with the least amount of deposits and friction.

Semi Synthetic
Pennzoil again at the bottom.
Mobile Next
The other two brands
Quaker State was on top.

Full Synthetic
Pennzoil again
Other two brands
Mobil
Quaker State on top again.

Final conclusion was Full Synthetic from Quaker State was by far the best out of the five use.

He has sold Pennzoil for the last 20 year at that time as the main oil in the cars he worked on. Needless to say after the tests he never bought it again. Used what he had and then started to use Mobil and Quaker State.

In his shop he has the print outs and caps (Not sure what they really were) to show the residue that was left by the oil.

Now this guy has been working on cars since he was young so I would say at that time 40 some years under his belt. and 25 of them owning his own shop. I would take pics of the results but he sold his shop and retired about 6 years ago. But the facts were all there.

Yes I know others will still argue that fine we are all entitled to our opinions I am just going by fact from what I know.

But even after these test he wanted to put it into hard core tests.

Now every year in our town we hold a demolition derby (drive around in an arena and smash each others cars until they don’t move winner is last one running)

Every year they would enter 3 cars (Only one per household good thing for Sons that were married) He switched the regular oil out for Quaker State oil in the cars. and Dang it made a difference. Less engine heat than normal. (Ran twice as long before over heating) Also not if but when, the oil pan would get a hole in it. Normally after a short time the engine would quit and at times catch fire. But since the change of oil he got longer running time out of the cars.

And since then between him and his sons and other family members they win most of the time. Needles to say the town loves them as out-of-town folks that come, lost there butts off. LOL.

Still to this day they run Full synthetic in there cars, but other have come to know this and also us it now. Now have a fair fight in the arena.

My mom used it in her OLD 1974 Lincoln Continental. The car got over 400,000 miles on it before she sold it for better full economy. Never having any major problems. WOW. that’s a lot of miles. We say it was because of the oil.

So since I have found this out I have used nothing but Full synthetic. I have went in my Durango over 70,000 miles with out changing it (Oooppsss. I was young and dumb) needless to say I did not add oil or changing it. When I did change it it was still some what clear And the filter (K&N always) was still fine. The place I brought it to said I did not need to change it yet, and was wondering why I was bring it in as it looked like I has it done only months before.

Well needless to say with everything I have read and seen and experienced I will NEVER USE ANTHING BUT QUAKER STATE FULL SYNTHETIC.

Well that is enough rambling for me SORRY GUYS. I just wanted you to know what I have read, seen, and experienced.

FYI: I change my oil every 25,000 miles now! And still have clean oil when I do. I am going to change it again this weekend. And it still looks clean. But fell I still should.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
That was an interesting post of yours almulder. What kind of test did he perform on the motor oils to draw his conclusion. Pennzoil Platinum which is a full synthetic has constantly proven itself to be a motor oil that protects and cleans the engine better then the other leading Group III motor oils in oil analysis reports. Pennzoil regular and Castrol GTX have both shown impressive results with oci of 5000 miles. Mobil 1 went through a major reformulation between 2004/2005 that its not as good but it cost less to make.
 
I am not sure of what test he ran. I only remember the results. Sorry! I know the tests he ran would provide a better understanding of how the got the results and why.

P.S. Sorry forgot to mention this test was done about 8 years ago. I would ask the guy but can't get in contact with him as my friend and his dad are not on speaking terms.

I will say this much. My friend was good to me this weekend. He lives in Utah and I live in CA now. And never having done any mechanic work on a car he helped me over the phone to replace my master cyl and reservoir, bleed the brakes and install new pads. Took me 8 hours but for my first time it don't think it was to bad. I learned ALOT.

And yes this was on my 2008 avenger. I accidentally drilled a hole into the reservoir. I was drilling above it and the drill slipped. OOOpppppppssssss..

Thank goodness for friends. Would have cost a fortune at the dealership.
 
I normally use the regular, also I'm a firm believer in changing the oil every 3000 miles. The longer you leave the oil in there the more it breaks down, the more it breaks down the better chance you have of gumming up your engine, I've seen it too many times. As far as synthetic I wouldn't use it cause when I worked at Penske Auto Center I went to a seminar/training class and talked to a representative from castrol and he said that the synthetic does not have as many cleaning agents and additives in it as the regular. Of course this was about 12 years ago and they may have come a long way since then.
 
Oh yeah, and as far as Quaker State oil, does it still leave a milky white build up inside of the engine? I had a car one time and the previous owner used Quaker State in it religiously and I almost had to do a complete tear down on the engine to clean it out. Thank God for motor flush. I only use Valvoline myself.
 
Full synthetic every 2900 to 3000 miles. Expensive but I believe its well worth it. I have never had an issues with any of the cars I have ever owned. A friend bought a 93 Beretta (wifes car) off of me and it had 98,000 and he followed the same maintenance and the car now has 212,000 and the only thing he replaced was the battery and it's still running strong.
 
My Avenger has only done 4500km (2700miles if i worked it right), but after a overheat due to dropping a heater hose i want to change the oil so any ideas as to what i use would be taken on board.
I am thinking of using MOBIL 1 10/30 full syn.?? Motor is 2.7ltr
 
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